I am nearly ready to start wiring my new layout. In the past I have always wired using terminal strips, but I see a lot about usingn insulation displacement (suitcase) connectory. This looks to be a lot easier, but as I have searched for them on the internet I don't see a connector that will bridge the wire sized I prefer to use--12 AWG bus to 22 AWG feeders. Am I just missing it or is there no connector that will bridge this span in wire sizes? If someone knows one that will a part number or a link would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
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Right. There is none that can connect 12 ga to 22 ga. There are three sizes, and the LION used the middle size, bought the G+B brand, it was supposed to accommodate 14 ga and 18 ga, but I could not make them work with 14 ga. I could not close the suitcase and some have fallen off.
I do not think I'll try them again. I will just use a knife to pare some insulation off of the 12 or 14 ga wire, and solder the smaller wire to it. It is cheaper that way, and LIONS are cheap.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I'm not aware of a connector for that. I use Scotchlok 567s, which allow me to attach my 12 AWG bus to 18 AWG feeders. I do have areas where I used smaller feeder wires, and attached them with a wire nut to an 18 AWG pigtail that in turn connects to the bus. Another option is to use butt splice connectors or some other kind of IDCs to connect these smaller wires away from the bus (which is a method explained by Andy Sperandeo in (I think) the MR special issue on "Realistic Reliable Track").
If you want to use smaller wire for feeders to render them less obtrusive, you can use 18 AWG stranded and strip it down to a smaller size for everything that's visible above the roadbed, thus eliminating an extra connection. That's easy and quick.
Rob Spangler
This has been asked a few times before. I'm not sure if there's one that drops down to the 22gauge, 18 w/o any problem. Check out: http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/themes/trc/forums/thread.aspx?ThreadID=77193
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I'm pretty set on my 22 AWG solid wire feeders. I modelin N scale and any larger size stick out like a sore thumb. I much prefer not to use stranded wire feeders. I would go back to using terminal strips and spade connectors (which is looking more and more likely) before changing gauge or to stranded wire.
You can get Scotchlok connectors that will go from 14-22 AWG, but not all the way to 12 AWG. I use 14 AWG for my bus with 20 AWG feeders so these are perfect for me.
You now see one of the reasons I don;t use suitcase connectors. I use the same size wires, and they just don't make one like that. ANd doubling over the thinner wire is just a BAD idea, it won't work reliably. ANd using two suitcase connectors plus a short strand of some in-between wire size as shown on some recent MR videos - that;s just plain wasteful.
Get an Ideal Stripmaster wire stripping tool, it allows you to quickly and easily pare back insulation in the middle of a wire, in thise case the #12 bus, and strip the end of the #22 feeder and wrap it tightly around the bared portion of the bus wire. Get a (about $30) Weller 150 watt soldering gun, and solder each one. Cheap. Fast. Reliable.
Offset each connection so that if the bus wires get pushed together, they can't short, and you don;t even have to do anythign else. I do plan on one of these days applying some liquid electrical tape to insulate mine, but it hasn't been a problem now on 2 different layouts.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
How about running a pair of 14 ga. bus wires in parallel for the current carrying capability and then use the standard suitcase connectors? Is this a DC or DCC layout?
Jim - Preserving the history of the NKP Cloverleaf first subdivision.
This has come up before - several times - and I have always been a loud NO vote. My background is aircraft maintenance, and any aircraft electrician who used one, even to attach a test lead, would be de-certified before you could say, "Suitcase Connector."
My own electricals go from soldered joints to stud-and-nut terminal blocks which I make myself from heavy styrene, nuts, bolts and washers (hardware bought in bulk - Cheap.) Making the terminal blocks takes (not much) time, wiring them takes a little longer than snapping a suitcase, but when I apply torque to speed handle or ratchet I KNOW the joint is, and will remain, solid.
Just my . Others will disagree - but they aren't going to be wiring MY layout...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with bulletproof electricals)
I like IDC's and have used 3M brand run and tap for 12AWG bus connected to 18AWG feeders.
In your case, I would custom make feeders of 18AWG to 22AWG at the work bench either soldered (cheaper) or with pigtail IDC's and then use run and tap connectors at the layout to attach them to the bus.
Good luck
Paul
I vote with Tomikawa. I use terminal strips. I can connect any size to any size and change connections any time I like. I have electronic experience and don't like things that cut into the insulation where I cannot see any damage that may have been done to the conductor inside.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
I use both IDCs and terminal strips with my power bus. The IDC attaches to my 14 AWG power bus. I run a 18 AWG wire from that to the terminal strip. The 20 AWG track feeders are then attached to the terminal strip and soldered to the track rail.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I have used both IDC's and soldered feeders. They both work if installed properly. To address your issue, when using IDC's I connect the 12 ga solid bus to 16 ga stranded leads. These leads are then attached to one or more 22 ga "drops" that are soldered to the track. In some locations of more complex trackage there may be 3 or 4 of these "drops" connected to one 16 ga lead. The connection between the lead and "drop" is made using wire nuts.
I'll use IDC's if I have them, if not then get the soldering iron out. The IDC's are quicker but cost a little more, however, that added cost is insignificant when looking at the overall cost of the hobby.
In my experience the workmanship is way more important than the method for most tasks in this hobby.
Jim
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Although we (club) use the 12/18 connectors, I can see everyones point for not to use them.
Being in "N" scale, I see that you really don't want such a heavy wire soldered to the rail.
Soldering or terminal is actually the most bullit proof/ lasting connection. We have gone back and forth about this very issue @ the club. Luckily we haven't had any problems w/ the thousands used.
Improper sizing, installation or rough handling under the layout can cause a damaged wire or loose connection. I would never consider the use on any machinery or automotive use just because of the very small contyact area as well as damage to an otherwise solid insulated wire.
I guess the choice is yours.
Thanks everyone for your input, but after all I'm reading here I'm going to stick with the tried and true terminal strips which will eliminate the problem altogether. Thanks again.
As long as the buss wires are the stranded type, you can use Posi-taps, I run 14 stranded buss and 22 solid myself and the black ones will do 12!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In his video on DCC and wiring, Joe Fugate describes a method whereby he uses the 3M IDC 905 which is designed for use with 14 AWG run wire to 22 AWG tap to join 12 AWG run wire to 22 AWG tap wire. HIs method involves using a single edge razor blade to cut a narrow notch through the insulation on the 12 AWG wire. This discontinuity in the insulation is then placed directly under the blade of the IDC. The 22 AWG tap wire is then insert in the IDC and the blade of the IDC is then crimped down. According to his video, he has never had any problem with IDC's over a 10 year period on his layout.
From what I have read, the most critical thing about using the IDC's is how you crimp the blade down. 3M makes a very expensive crimping tool (about $60), but a set of RoboGrip pliers, at approximately $18 on Amazon,apparently does the job as well. Another caution about the use of the IDC's is not to use them in any location where the wires going into them will be subjected to pulling or a lot of movement. This apparently can loosen the connections.
On my own layout, I plan to use the 3M IDC's that are design for 12 AWG run wire and 14 AWG tap wire. I'll use these to tap off my 12 AWG main power bus to a 14 AWG sub-bus which will run to terminal strips where they'll be attached with spade connecters. The 22 AWG power drops from the rails will also be attached to these terminal strips with spade connectors.
Bob
LION has a four track mane lion, all on the same circuit, him ties the feeders together with a wire nut and a pig's tail that goes to the bus. As I explained, I tried the suitcases, but will now stick to solder.
The wire nut will allow me to later pull out a wire to control that section of track perhaps in concert with the adjacent turnout.
RFinch In his video on DCC and wiring, Joe Fugate describes a method whereby he uses the 3M IDC 905 which is designed for use with 14 AWG run wire to 22 AWG tap to join 12 AWG run wire to 22 AWG tap wire. HIs method involves using a single edge razor blade to cut a narrow notch through the insulation on the 12 AWG wire. This discontinuity in the insulation is then placed directly under the blade of the IDC. The 22 AWG tap wire is then insert in the IDC and the blade of the IDC is then crimped down. According to his video, he has never had any problem with IDC's over a 10 year period on his layout. From what I have read, the most critical thing about using the IDC's is how you crimp the blade down. 3M makes a very expensive crimping tool (about $60), but a set of RoboGrip pliers, at approximately $18 on Amazon,apparently does the job as well. Another caution about the use of the IDC's is not to use them in any location where the wires going into them will be subjected to pulling or a lot of movement. This apparently can loosen the connections. On my own layout, I plan to use the 3M IDC's that are design for 12 AWG run wire and 14 AWG tap wire. I'll use these to tap off my 12 AWG main power bus to a 14 AWG sub-bus which will run to terminal strips where they'll be attached with spade connecters. The 22 AWG power drops from the rails will also be attached to these terminal strips with spade connectors. Bob
My only problem w/ using the wrong sized IDC (too small) is damage to the solid 12G wire. Stripping insulation doesn't matter as the notch of the spade will be too small almost "cutting/ grooving" your main bus. Maybe using a 14 cut into 12 may not create an issue, Copper is quite malliable if undisturbed but not when patially damaged/ nicked especially on opposite sides. I've seen wiring perfectly good harnesses destroyed from "U Haul" and others "chopping" into the harness using the wrong connectors. Of coarse our wiring doesn't have to endure the weather and abuse as that on a vehicle.
I believe Joe Fugate was using the method on 12 AWG stranded wire, if that would make any difference. I understand that nicking wire, especially solid wire, can produce a weak stop which can become the site of a future break.