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Christmas Lights for Lower Levels??

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Christmas Lights for Lower Levels??
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 14, 2004 11:52 PM
I'm modeling in N scale and have two levels of benchwork. I'm thinking about lighting the lower level using strings of Christmas lights. Anyone out there with some advise??
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 15, 2004 12:19 AM
Yes! I also am buiding a 2 level n-scale layout and in my lower level I used low-voltage deck lighting up underneath the bottom of the top level. It gives off a nice ambient light and is inexpensive. The timer is bulky but is easily hidden underneath the layout and can be set for constant on.
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Posted by nfmisso on Sunday, August 15, 2004 9:16 AM
With any lighting, make sure that the bulbs are adequately cooled, and that there is nothing close that will catch fire. Aluminum foil with an air gap on each side is a good cheap heat barrier.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by johncolley on Sunday, August 15, 2004 10:33 AM
Have done it with strands of alternating white and yellow and a strand of blue, both on dimmers. so you can go from full daylight to night running. Now a new twist! because of the heat from the incandescents I have gone to the rope strands of LED's....look ma, no heat buildup! and more uniform light because they are closer together!
jc5729
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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Sunday, August 15, 2004 2:05 PM
My advise is don't do it. Not bright enough.
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
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Posted by orsonroy on Sunday, August 15, 2004 6:27 PM
Normal small Xmas lights aren't bright enough, but the larger C7 and C9 sized lights are. I'm using them on my three level layout, and so far, so good.

The problem witht he small Xmas lights is the amount of light versus the amount of heat they generate. For the poor amount of light they'll emit, they sure do crank out the BTUs. Using C7 or C9 sized bulbs helps improve light output, while lessening heat. Pick up the light strings the day after Xmas (I tried last year three days after, and they were gone. I tried over 10 stores!)

I've done two things to help improve lighting: 1) paint the underside of the levels gloss white, and 2) added reflectors between the bulbs and the benchwork. The best reflectors are compact mirrors, which effectively double the output of the bulb, and which also act as a heatsink. I picked up a few small mirrors from a scientific supply house for a quarter apiece.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by ClinchValleySD40 on Monday, August 16, 2004 2:40 PM
I agree with Paul, if you do it you're going to be disappointed. Poor light.
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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 12:35 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by clinchvalley

I agree with Paul, if you do it you're going to be disappointed. Poor light.


Let me amend what I said...I suppose there would be enough light if you used enough of them, but the cost, power consumption and heat build up could get pretty excessive, IMO.

Layouts using the bulb strings that I've personally seen - and I was refering to the larger type bulbs in my original message, BTW - just weren't bright enough. Of course most of the layouts I've seen never seem quite bright enough. I'm currently considering making part of my layout double deck, and don't know what I'll end up using for the lighting of the bottom deck, but it will probably be some type of fluorescent fixtures. Just don't know if the heat from the lights sitting under the top deck, which will probably be using foam board for lightness, will be a problem and if so, how to protect the foam from the heat...any ideas or experiences dealing with that?

Thanks...
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
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Posted by ClinchValleySD40 on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 1:36 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by CBQ_Guy

Originally posted by clinchvalley

I agree with Paul, if you do it you're going to be disappointed. Poor light.


Let me amend what I said...I suppose there would be enough light if you used enough of them, but the cost, power consumption and heat build up could get pretty excessive, IMO.

Layouts using the bulb strings that I've personally seen - and I was refering to the larger type bulbs in my original message, BTW - just weren't bright enough. Of course most of the layouts I've seen never seem quite bright enough. I'm currently considering making part of my layout double deck, and don't know what I'll end up using for the lighting of the bottom deck, but it will probably be some type of fluorescent fixtures. Just don't know if the heat from the lights sitting under the top deck, which will probably be using foam board for lightness, will be a problem and if so, how to protect the foam from the heat...any ideas or experiences dealing with that?

Thanks...

Well said. You will be amazed at how much heat those little guys put out. I ended up using C7's (the smaller of the two sizes - other is C9) for some staging yards. Lights are spaced about 8" apart and give just enough light to see the trains (not enough to read reporting marks). And the heat they give off is a lot.

Larry
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Posted by Jetrock on Thursday, August 19, 2004 3:28 AM
In that case, then, what do folks recommend for a good, bright layout light? My layout's "seasonal setting" is late summer in the Sacramento Valley, characterized by 100+ degree heat and cloudless skies. It's a shelf layout, with a lighting valence/upper shelf two feet above the layout surface. What can I do to get things fairly bright without resulting to massive floodlamps and actual 100+ degree temperatures in the layout room?
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Posted by ClinchValleySD40 on Thursday, August 19, 2004 7:29 AM
Fluorescent tubes (singles will be okay) behind the valance. Check out Ted York's Cajon Pass web site. After operating on his layout, I went home and did the same.
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Posted by foxtrackin on Saturday, August 21, 2004 5:53 PM
I used the undercabinet low voltage 12v 20w halogen lights. They give off a crisp white natural light and they are dimmable. They are the lights used under the upper cabinets in kitchens and they are good displays lights.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 21, 2004 9:24 PM
Thanks Foxtrackin, I saw those under cabinent low voltage lights just yesterday at my favorite home improvement store. They can be surface mounted but what problems have you experienced with heat? How far apart did you mount them. Thanks to all for your suggestions. This forum works!!
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Posted by foxtrackin on Sunday, August 22, 2004 10:03 AM
I mounted them 2' apart and 3' above my layout(I am in HO). The ones I have are 20w but there is also 10w available they are halogen bulbs and do give off some heat, but because they are low voltage and low watts they havent caused me any problems and I have 60 of them over my layout.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 22, 2004 8:08 PM
I was wondering about those tubes computer modders use to light the interior of computer cases. Would any of them work?
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 1:29 AM
I personally know of two layout using christmas lights in our area. Both are seriously underlit.

In my experiments with double deck lighting, I could not get them birght enough to work for me. I also tried the halogen under cabinet lights. They worked well, but they they were power hungry, the variety I used sucked down over one amp for three bulbs... I will be using high color temp flouresents with some Halogen 12V spots if I can find some that draw less amperage...

Guy

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