Hi all,
I have loved trains all my life. I am new to model railroading. I was thinking of doing an old west train layout. What first came to mind was the movie Tombstone. I am not sure on the layout though. I know that I want an HO scale. Also, I was thinking of either a 5x5 layout, or if I can swing it a 5x8 layout. I am not sure on the track layout though. Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks,
B
I have been attempting to build a Western-themed layout for quite some time now, but did not tackle the challenge, due to the lack of available equipment for such a layout. The industry does not offer much equipment to model the era from the 1860´s to, say, the 1890´s. Bachmann has a 4-4-0 of doubtful quality, which requires a lot of work to it to turn into a performer. To my knowledge, there is no 2-6-0, 4-6-0 or 2-8-0 available from that period.
It is really regrettable, that no manufacturer has yet a quality model of the loco which built America, in their roster.
As to the size (and shape) of your layout, a 5 by 5 seems to be too small to do something more than a circle of track with a few sidings. A 5 by 8 seems to be more reasonable to come up with something which is not only fun to build but also to operate. But beware, a rectangular layout of this size actually requires a footprint of a minimum 9 by 10 feet, better even 11 by 10 feet, as you will have to be able to reach all sides of it - that´s quite a lot of space for a layout with limited possibilities. If you can provide a drawing of your "train room", there are quite a lot of folks in this forum who can help you finding the best suitable plan for you.
For structures, you'll probably have to resort to scratchbuilding. I live only 15 miles from Tombstone, and the Tombstone Historic Courthouse is the only structure that has ever been commercially mass produced; it was marketed by Walthers many years ago as one of their Cornerstone series kits.
I have an old west town on my HO scale home layout using buildings that were scratchbuilt using the plans in a booklet called "HO Scale Wild West Structures You Can Build" which was purchased from Mark J. Bigelow, DBA James Publications, 1006 Landings Blvd, West Palm Beach, Florida 33413. (jamespub@aol.com) You'll have to contact him to see if the booklet is still available.
This booklet has actual scale sized plans for each building -- acquiring the materials was another story.
You can see my scratchbuilt buildings at http://members.cox.net/cacole2
Go with the 5x8 for a nice small layout. As noted, there isn't much available from this period (1870's-1890's) in any scale. But fortunately wooden railroad cars and building are fairly easy to make. Parts and wood shapes are available. A few engines have been made over the years, mostly 4-4-0's. Ebay might have some. Depending on exacting you want to be, you should use link and pin couplers and very light rail such as code HO 70 track.
Good luck
Paul
As an early rail modeler, I have to disagree to some extent with the previous assessments.
True, there are not a lot of good RTR plastic locomotives in any scale. And most of the plastic RTR cars are rather crude by today's standards. But if you are willing to extend yourself beyond plastic RTR, there's a whole 'nother world out there.
Brass and plastic locomotives are available used, and can be modified to make them run much better than stock. Manuta/Tyco plastic and die cast kits can still be found, and bashed and built into good running engines. Even scratchbuilding the relatively simple engines of the era is easier than later steam locomotives.
There are half a dozen or more present-day manufacturers of very nice, well detailed wood or resin car kits approrpiate to the period. But they seldom advertise in Model Railroader. And you usually have to order direct instead of buying from an LHS. As an alternative, the train set plastic cars are easily upgraded by replacing queen posts and truss rods, and cast-on details with finer details. A new set of trucks and couplers, repainting and weathering and they look pretty good.
Structures - there are plenty of suitable wood structures available in kit form. If you are looking for accurate models of Tuscon buildings, then you will have to scratchbuild.
For track, nothing will be as realistic as hand laid code 55 and code 40 rail spiked to wood ties. BK makes turnout kits in the small rail codes, and Railway Engineering will custom make any turnout you desire at pretty reasonable prices. Dirt ballast mounded in the center with most of the tie ends exposed was the norm. If you are not into hand-laying, very few will realize that the tie plates on commercial model track are not prototypical for the era. Paint the sides of the rail, and the outer portion of the top, and it won't look so over-size.
Probably the best starting points are the Yahoo Early Rail and Civil War Railroading Groups (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EarlyRail/).
Couplers are a personal issue. Some insist on using link and pin model couplers for realism. Others will use Kadees for operational purposes. The Janney (knuckle) coupler was invented in the 1870s, but didn't see widespread adoption until the 1890s. Which is one of the reasons I chose to model 1900 (air brakes were another). I like the Kadee #711 (Old Time) coupler for its smaller bulk, although it sometimes takes more work to mount than standard Kadee couplers.
If you are willing to stretch a little, and go beyond RTR plastic, modeling the 19th Century is quite practical.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
If you want to control cost of locos, the Roundhouse 4-4-0, 2-6-0 and 2-8-0 are advertised as maybe 1885 to 1890 though many locos at that time had the air pump on the engineer's side, not the fireman's side. I have dozens of photos with locos that had the air pump on the engineer's side in that era.
I have all three of these locos.
There are some nice brass locos available.
I still buy the MDC/Roundhouse plastic truss rod kits and some better detailed resin kits which are more expensive. You can improve the detail on the cheap kits also.
I use a few link & pin on a work train but they are grossly over size for HO. I mostly use the Kadee old time coupler as Kadee has a fixture to easily assemble the couplers.
You just do not have to count all the rivets.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Take a visit to Space Mouse's Rock Ridge & Train City for "old west" HO Scale railroading.
Then visit another day to see what you missed during your first visit, and; don't overlook the Beginner's Guide to Layout Design.
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
Old time rolling stock possibilities
http://www.earlyrail.org/freight-cars.html
Maybe a western themed tourist trap. Early 60's time frame.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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For a good western track plan with a small mining town look for the "Jerome and Southwestern" published in the early 80's in MR. I think it was a Malcolm Furlow plan and design with a nice western feel to it.
Chris
CFournier For a good western track plan with a small mining town look for the "Jerome and Southwestern" published in the early 80's in MR. I think it was a Malcolm Furlow plan and design with a nice western feel to it. Chris
That was John Olsen's plan, and it's one of my favorites. I agree with you that it has a nice western feel to it.
- Harry
What about narrow gauge, H0n3 ?
Same scale, but smaller roster, sharper curves.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
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The Bachmann and Mantua "old time" cars are what would be appropriate for the pre-1890's.
One other thing to consider is that the Transcontinental line wasn't completed until 1869. Most of the rail lines in the west weren't built until the 1880's or 1890's. The WP wasn't built until after 1900.
If you want to model the 1860's and the "wild west", you will be modeling Louisiana, Iowa, Kansas, Arkansas or Missouri. Think about the opening to the recent "True Grit" movie. The tracks end at Ft. Smith.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com