Heres the interior of the main floor restuarant. Made the coal fired stove from card stock and brass tube. Prieser tables and chairs. Printed marble counter top and cabinets over card stock.
Interior of Ninas Cafe
Ninas Cafe New Patrons
Making the LED lights and runs. The telephone wire was free and it works great in supporting itself and the LED. However, running it through the model is a pain. Kind of stiff.
Ninas LEDs
Ninas Light Paths
Here's the interior structure complete and lighted. Had to cantiliver the upper floor so that posts would not be visible by the front. The outer shell lifts on and off.
LED Installation for Ninas Cafe
Printed the sign on semi gloss photo paper including the anchor straps. After gluing together, bent the straps to 45 degrees.
Making Ninas Sign
Making Nias Sign
About done with this one.
Ninas Cafe Before Install
Ninas Cafe at Night
Mike
Thank you W.L.R. Looks like I'm on the 20 year plan. Next post, next year! ;)
Outsanding work, Eric. That checkerboard floor really sets things off in Nina's. Impressive job with the lighting, too!
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Thanks Mike. A bright cheery place to eat with a nice view of the mountains. Its going to be popular spot with the tourists in 50 years ;)
I'm switching back over to the mine/mill to finish that scene. I've been invited to give a presentation on it at the NMRA Silver San Juan Division meeting in Farmington April 29. So I would like to have that finally finished.
The water tank for the mill was made from tape dispenser rolls and a garage sale sign. Scribe lines for representing the metal plates were made using the circle lines and the angle weight as a guide.
The access hatch made from styrene parts and a scrap ladder rung for a handle.
The tank was airbrushed with Model Master flat black with some grey mixed in. The supply pipe, from water pumped out of the mine, was made from brass tube and painted with Model Master steel. No weathering yet, brand new /sarc.
Nice modeling, but I feel like I should point this out...
Erm.....
DavidH66, I don't get what your trying to point out? What am I missing?
My You Tube
Yeah its been like that for awhile. I have no idea why or how.
All long threads seem to get that way. But it doesn;t really cause any problems in reading, you can jump to the last page with no problem.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
A final check just to make sure it might look ok.
Making indents on the back side of the gusset plates to create rivet detail.
A finished truss. Doubled up 2x8 mains, with 1" tension rods made from guitar string.
The tailings bridge ties and stringers. Stringers are 8x8 with 6x6 ties.
The tailings bents are 8x8 with 2x8 and 2x4 cross members
The bridge was stained golden oak, dark walnut, and grey.
Surveying for placing the bents square to the building.
Chrysolite Metals Mine and Mill.
-E-C-Mills:
Nice work on the tailing bridge!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thank you Dave.
And thanks everyone for the comments and visiting this thread.
Enjoy!
Eric
And now a little side project. I got tired of dragging my airbrush stuff to the garage and so built this paint booth out of cardboard, duct tape, and a USB fan. Here is the back. Cut the circle out so the screws of the fan could hold it in place.
Paint Booth 1 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Here is the back side showing the fan screws and the routing of the USB power cord
Paint Booth 2 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
All taped together.
Paint Booth 3 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
The angles help the light from the desk lamp to get in.
Paint Booth 4 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
The exhaust duct is made from some heavy card stock paper rolled to fit the USB fan.
Paint Booth 5 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Seems to work good enough. I only airbrush acrylics in small amounts and the USB fan is low voltage so there should be little chance of any fires. Spent about $10 bucks. (actually the fan was just laying around) The first use was to airbrush a Model A Ford.
Paint Booth 6 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Mandy poses with her new 1928 Ford Model A truck. My first Jordan Highway Miniatures model.
Street scene starting to come together.
Eric Miller, on Flickr
Eric,
Good work on the Jordan pick-em-up. Sure wish that Jordan would get back in production.
Thanks Mike. Yeah me too. There's not much available for the 10s-30s era.
Newly acquired GN 121 is caught working the interchange at Jobyna.
Working the GPM&C by Eric Miller, on Flickr
After the last photo the layout needs more life. So I decided to make a static grass applicator. First I tried the $2 one from Harbor Freight. However, when I got it all together it was dead. I forgot to test it before I did the work on it.
I then upgraded to the Black Flag 2,750 V bug zapper for $8. It tested good. I then did the modifications as shown here. I used a largish pill bottle for the hopper screen bin. I wanted it small to get into tight spaces. The ground pin is a peice of house wire filed to a point. I just hold it to the ground.
Black Flag DIY Grass Applicator 1 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Black Flag DIY Grass Applicator 2 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Black Flag DIY Grass Applicator 3 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Test using NOCH 07073 Master Grass Blend 6mm. The patch on the left was the previous failure.
Static Grass Test by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Now we have a little more texture.
Layout Static Grass Test 1 by Eric Miller, on Flickr
Sunshine Music and Radio
Eric M, on Flickr
The crew says hello!
Mini Palisades by Eric Miller, on Flickr
I've been pretty busy starting a modular group and my local NMRA Silver San Juan Division, so the GPM&C has been somewhat on hold. However getting involved with the NMRA has motivated me to work on some rolling stock for my Golden Spike Acheivement Certificate. I have everything required completed but 6 items of modified or enhanced rolling stock. This has to be more than just putting couplers on a kit. The cars shown below were given to me except the Rio Grande box which I bought for a couple bucks. So I decided the two flats, the gon, and the RG box would get a coupler conversion (although not those mate o matics), metal wheel conversion, decals, and weathering.
For the other two I pulled out a couple Athearn chemical tank cars I built years ago. These will get a coupler conversion, some piping, and weathering.