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Today I formed and poured the slabs for the Ready Mix Co.. I used Balsa wood forms and Drywall mud with a shot of arcrylic grey. When it was almost cured I used a metal ruler and marked the expansion joints in then, lightly used a 1" paint brush wet for the broom texture. Hopefully it works and they don't lift off the wood. If they do I will re pour them using counter top cement powder and sand and some staples or screws indide the slab to lock it in place. Now I think of that. Both the Building and Batch plant are scratch built from styrene. Thanks for lookin'
Forms stripped and cleaned up!
The maint. building and Batch plant set it place real quick for a few photos.
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What scale are we looking at? Seems like a lot of work. Couldn't you have done the same thing with styrene? It does look nice, I would be afraid of cracking as it drys.
It is HO scale. I am hoping it cracks. All concrete wants to crack. It will look even better if it does. Not really a lot of work. I am in no hurry to finish. If it was done I would rip it apart and build another! Constructing the model is most of the fun to me.
Nice idea pouring the "concrete" the way the prototype does it. The finished product will probably have a more realistic texture than the typical painted styrene or wood.
Joe
Thanks Joe!
Tried a little different method today. I added black paint instead of gray (duh) but a little darker than I wanted. Maybe I am going to need paint the other slabs to match. Also I spread some wood glue first and put some staples in the wood to help the slabs adhere th the wood. I like it but it a little brittle for my taste. I may still redo all of this with a Portland Cement slurry with a little sand for strength and texture. I thought I would have a little fun with a few pics and some diecast cars and trucks.
Assuming you are happy with the results using drywall joint compound, rather than glue and staples to secure the compound to the OSB, how about using mesh joint tape with an adhesive backing as a sub-base? Works on drywall joints.
Also, I think you could tone-down that texture and the joints. Scale textures would be almost invisible; joints would be hairlines.
Dante
Thanks Dude, I may tear this out and try Portland Cement. Great idea on the joint tape as a rebar or mesh. This is my first layout build so I am off a little on scale. I am trying to get away from thinking 1:64th when I build. I used to do a lot ao Custom Hot Wheels and Dioramas in 1:64th. Thanks for the tips bud!
Rick
Looks Great,
If the ready mix cracks or shrinks to much I would suggest a product called Easy Sand. It is available at the home stores in the drywall section. It is powder in a bag. It is available in 20, 45, and 90 minute dry times. It will not shrink and crack like ready mix.
Kelly
www,finescale360.com
Many really like using DW joint conpound for some reason. You should definately look to using another medium. Hydrocal is my choice for overall workability, however, Durham's water putty Plaster of Paris, and Durabond 90 also will work quite satisfactory.
I'm not a fan of styrene, but in this case probably would have been another easily workable choice.
I work w/ plasters, J compound, Durabond and spackles on a regular basis but for thier intended purposes. Even some of the veneering plasters (Unical and Diamond) will work far better than "Mud"
You should also consider painting/ priming that OSB. If you want some tooth or better bond, staple down some wire screeing. Even a few loosely stapled (protruding) staples screws etc will anchor your casting. Any movement, twist, shock or expasion/ contraction can "pop" these casings or have them crumble. Would be quite the disappointment.
I like to color my plaster w/ powdered masonry dyes. Work far superior than Sacrete liquid and paint. Plus never have to worry if too much additive may affect curing/ drying or overall cured product from being compromised. But in any event, most of the plasters will take washes for coloring and weathering w/o problem.
These pics show poured Hydrocal/plaster roads, retaining walls, rocks. Some are, carved from master and other WS and other ptoduction molds
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org