starting construction of a new ho layout, i'm using cork for the first time, as i have heard good things about its durability and reliablity. before i used the woodland scenics roll of foam and wasn't happy with it, however it was very flexable. my question is in regards to bending the cork around the various curves on my layout. i've heard that youre supposed to soak it in water, wondering if this is true or is there another way?? thank you. mmr
I would highly suggest you don't wet the cork before putting it down. What could happen is the cork will expand. It can also dampen the wood under it. After you lay the track and secure it the cork will dry out over time. This will cause the cork and possibly the wood under it to contract. Buckling or bent rails can result.
Springfield PA
HO cork roadbed comes in a piece that has a split down its middle. When you split the piece you end up with two narrow relatively flexible strips. I've never had a problem curving it to typical HO radii.
I remember that advice and followed it many years ago. It works, but it's messy and you have to let it all dry out before laying track. And it usually isn't necessary. Any cork you buy these days should bend without problem.
Enjoy
Paul
I just finished laying my cork roadbed for the first time also. I seperated the cork into the 2 pieces and then sanded the beveled edges with a fine grit sandpaper to get rid of any lips or "clinkers" on them. I then started my first piece near the end of a straight section and worked it into a curve. I have 18" radius curves and wetting was NOT necessary. I used Liquid Nails panel adhesive to glue the cork to the foamboard base. Not sure what you are using for a base, but as I laid the cork along my track centerline I used long pins to hold it in place. Not sure what the pins are called but you can get them at Jo-Ann Fabrics. They are about 2" long. They have big head too. After letting it set for 24 hours I removed the pins. They slid right out of the foam and cork. All has held up well so far.
Robert H. Shilling II
One thing not mentioned yet, stagger the ends of the pieces at least a couple of inches, if not more. Makes for a smoother surface.. Also, under turnouts you have a couple of options. You can cut and fit roadbed, not too hard. You can buy cork tiles at a craft store and cut your own turnout pads. You can also buy precut turnout pads. The one thing I would recommend is to paint your roadbed under the area of your turnouts. Use a color close to your ballast color, then, you don't have to use as much ballast close to the moving parts of the turnouts.
I have found that a very thin layer of cheap latex caulk works as well as the more expensive stuff. It can also be used for attaching your track to the cork and many other things.
Good luck,
Richard
Soaking cork roadbed is not necessary. I'm using Midwest Products cork roadbed that is at least 20 years old, in a climate with single digit humidity, with no problems.
I prefer Woodland Scenics foam, but both have a split down the middle that you can spilt/separate to cuve around curved areas. Mind you you will end up with unven ends, but it should curve just nicely.
I would not wet it before aplication as that could cause problems.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
mmr1229:
I am curious to know why you did not like the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. Can you elaborate?
Thanks
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!