Perhaps it has already been discussed here before but there seems to be a scare on the internet about using the Insulation Displacement Connector (IDC) in model railroading. Typically, some say that in the long run they are not reliable.
Several caveats seem to be brought up often and from sources other than model railroaders. 1. Copy cat brands other than the Scotchlok 3M version are questionable (but cheaper and easier to apply) and only have one blade versus the two on the 3M version. 2. Reportedly, in the long run the metal will corrode regardless of what brand. 3. Also some have said that they are susceptible to long term contact problems with stranded wire versus solid wire. And finally, 4. The contact problems are more noticeable in damp, humid conditions.
I know that Andy Sperandeo uses them on his layout and I believe the Kalmbach club layout does too in addition to many other model railroaders. Have we not been using them long enough to judge long term reliability?
I am beginning the major wiring on a large DCC layout and naturally I am concerned. I'm planning on using the Scotchlok version but also applying some anti corrosive paste inside the connectors like contractors use with aluminum wiring for added assurance. Would that hurt anything?
Well, what do you think?
Mechanically never had one fail on me in over 20 years, but I don't have the humidity issues that seem to plague many layouts on the forum so can't comment on the corrosion point. I do use stranded wire, not solid.
I get mine from the local auto store - no idea what brand they are.
The only tip I'd give is make sure there's a reasonable amount of slack in the wire runs. That way if a connector did fail and you had to cut it out, you have plenty spare to simply splice in a new one.
Wabash.
Being a big truck and earth moving equipment mechanic for longer then I would like to mention I personally hate the things. Number one reason is for the corrosion factor and second for it only has the little knife edge for a connection. Perhaps in a home environment the corrosion factor would be nil to non existent. The knife edge connection has been a source of bad connections and high resistance in a circuit or two. I don't know how they would hold up to 5 amps running through that tiny connection if a short should happen in the fed section. But then again the vibration and expansion/ contraction factor is minimized in a home environment. I know for a fact that when I run across one that has failed it does a number on the wire and is a pain to replace. Use them if you like. Lots of modelers do. I am a proponent of solid hard connections done right the first time for a long time.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
I have used them in a variety of applications--auto, layout, marine. With failure occuring in all, given enough time. Sometimes with the cheaper ones, the lock has simply come undone. I haven't seen corrossion on the layout connectors. Quality of wire, insulation and connectors I believe are key. As is matching the wire gauge and connector.
Does anyone think the anti corrosion paste will help?
I solder everything train related on the layout (track, feeders, bus, signals, building lighting, etc) but used the 3M IDC connectors on some of the layout lighting circuits that were driving Daylight 9-watt CFLs. After two years, I've had to go back in and replace exactly half of those connections and believe me this has been a huge PIA. I'll not use them again as the layout grows. The basement is humidity and temperature controlled and these lights have had zero mechanical stress applied short of me bumping my head on the valences a few times. Personally I feel the insulation tends to close back up and migrate under the blade but I've never tried to investigate the failure modes. Shaking the connectors will make the lights blink so I tend to just rip them out and go with a twist terminal and electrical tape.
Robby Modeling the L&N CV Subdivision in 1978 http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd247/robby-ky/CV%20Subdivision%20Layout/
The first time I seen a IDC it was used for a quick inexpensive tie in for U-Haul trailer light leads.
I too have had bad experiences using these as its a poor connection with vechicle, heavey equipment and marine use. As others working in the field of repairing and trouble shooting equipment, the sight of an IDC was usually the first indication of where the problem area was.
A layout may be a different matter as suggested by others, due to the enviorment and you may not have any problems, however it is a mechanical type connector and IMO designed for a quick fix. I doubt you would need any type of corrosion inhibitor, inless one has this problem in other areas of the household, which is unlikley.
I started to use that method untill I priced them, knowing there could be problems with pinching and cutting stranded wire, knowing also that unsodered rail joiners are not that great for a good connection and by adding another slide on IDC type connector???
My personal openion is, if I want a good connection, bright (shiney) soderd joints and a bit of shrink tube is far better and less expensive, knowing I have no future Ohm loss is paramont to me .
Gads I just realized "Im a IDC bigot" lol
take care John
There are many kinds of IDC connectors on the market besides the "Suitcase" connectors. When I had some problems with my telephone connection, I traced it to the outside junction box, some broken wires. epaired with the specific type of IDC, in which the connection is made in a large glob of waterproffing dielectric jelly. That was about 10 years ago. No further problems till squirrels nesting in the main cable juction box at the pole caused problems chewing on the insulation.
I've used many other types at work, including for temporary test intallations on heavy trucks. I'd never use them where there is any heavy amount of humidity, moisture, or exposure to water, or permanent installations, except for very short term use, regardless of what's claimed for them. But, if you're familiar with the connectors in many of the interconnect cables, especially the ribbon type cables used in computerized equipment, many of them are IDC. Not too bad if something is setting 24 hours a day inside without much movement, vibration, or exposure to heavy temperature variations or extrmes of humidity. But then there's bound to be problems if the wrong tools are used, or the correct tools are improperly used. And, I've seen failures in factory assembled production cables.
A good quality major brand name IDC connector may be OK for a permanent home layout, if the wire or cables are well supported, and you are careful to assemble them with the proper tools. Without the proper tools, or on something like a frequently used module of foldaway layout, I'd go with properly soldered splices. Just make sure to allow some slack around the splices in case repairs or changes become necessary.
I have over 150 of them(3M ScotchLoc) on my layout(23 years old) and our club has at least 500 of them(6 years old). I have seen one failure at the club, and that was because the connector was not crimped down with the 'tool' - you could see the jaw marks from a vise-grip. A re-crimp with the correct tool resolved the problem and we had full voltage on the feeder. I believe most of the problems are due to incorrect crimping(vise-grips/gas pliers/channel locks/etc). If you do not want to spend about $25 for the correct tool for the job, then solder the leads. If you solder, get the correct tools as well. A Stripmaster wire stripper($25 at Lowes) will skin back even #10 wire so you can solder your track feeders to the bus.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Jim:
Can you give us a link for that "correct" tool? I had heard that they are more expensive than $25. Incidentally, I think Andy Sperandeo is using "Robo-Grip" cam-action pliers.
I think this might be an example of what he means by the correct tool: http://www.micromark.com/SCOTCHLOK-CRIMPING-TOOL,8952.html
I use channel lock pliers myself.
maxman I think this might be an example of what he means by the correct tool: http://www.micromark.com/SCOTCHLOK-CRIMPING-TOOL,8952.html I use channel lock pliers myself.
I use this tool from Micromark. It's a little pricey, but easy to use.
Enjoy
Paul
I've got hundreds of them under my layout and in over 6 years of operation have had no problems whatsoever. I can't stand soldering under the layout, so for me it was the best way to go.
Larry
http://www.youtube.com/user/ClinchValleySD40
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52481330@N05/
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php/cat/500/page/1/ppuser/8745/sl/c
As an electrician, I have seen lots of these in use over the years. My brand new car trailer had lots of them and I had to completly rewire it due to shoddy instalation. I've seen them melted and corroded and personally will not use them on my new layout. Nicking a wire while installing a conector just isn't the way I was taught electrical work. Some guys haven't had any issues but I just won't take that chance with all the conections my layout will have.
Every ribbon connector in your computer is terminated by an IDC. Every ethernet cable, every phone cable....
I truly expect that most failures in the MRR environment are due to poor installation. Heck the Kalmbach Dream Plan Build video on DCC demonstrates incorrect installation. Installed correctly, with the correct wire sizes, I would expect that the reliability is as good as the average MRR solder joint, having seen plenty of those that are destined to fail, as well.
I would be a bit dubious of IDCs in locations where there was going to be a lot of movement. Then again, that's true of a lot of connection methods.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Yeah, that's a bit more than $25...
I think the $25 price reference was for the wire stripping tool at Lowes, not the IDC crimping tool.
Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
I do not have a web link, but I got mine at the local Menards(Home DIY Center) for about $24 and change. They do not have a web inventory, but I fould mine in the electrical area. And the $70 one is way too much to pay!
Try these. They have the same lever action as those expensive ones mentioned heretofore.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=robogrip+pliers
My experience has been good. I have some that have been in place over 20 years with no problems. I would also add I have a climate controlled basement environment for the railroad and have very few failures of any kind.
This is the type of IDC crimper I bought at the local Menards:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/22-1025&CAWELAID=220251853
I could not find the crimpers anywhere local that Andy or Jim use (even at Sears, Menards, or the local hardware store). I could have ordered them online, but I bit the bullet and purchased the expensive Scotchlok one. They are $99 retail but I got them for $79.95 plus shipping (I ordered some other things to absorb the shipping). They have interchangable jaws for different size connectors and are designed for the Scotchlok connectors. I bought the Scotchlok connectors online at a quantity discount (cheaper than the Scotchlok ones at Micro Mark). It seems just about everyone is selling the copy cat version but with only one blade. The Scotchloks are made in the USA and I know from having worked in the automobile parts industry that the Chinese have a repuation for skimping on quality and not telling the importers or their own people. If you don't beleive me, here is a good book to read:
http://money.usnews.com/money/blogs/alpha-consumer/2009/4/23/explaining-chinas-quality-control-problems
My layout is a basement layout and I do use a dehumidifier during the summer but I also bought some anti oxidizing paste to dab in the connectors before I crimp them. I should be OK. Incidentally, I am using No. 10 wire for the bus and No.18 from the bus to the No. 22 wire soldered to the rail. This is all solid wire exclusively as stranded wire reportedly can come undone in the connectors. I am still mulling over what to use to hold the bus wire in place as wan't to be able to move things if need be and not put tension on the feeders from the track. That is the downside with solid wire.