Wahts the best way to bend that hook thing on couplers.Sometimes I have some that catch the frogs or rail going over switches.i know someone makes a plier like tool.But is their any other method.Right now I use my thumb on top and fingers on bottom'but this is hard and painfull sometimes.Thanks BOB
I use needle-nosed pliers. I support the top of the coupler with a finger so that it doesn't lift or rotate upward as I exert force on the trip pin, its proper name. I place the tines of the pliers closer to the end of the trip pin and rotate my wrist so that the pin is forced to bend slightly.
This has to be done with care. It could also be done by removing the entire coupler and shimming in most/many cases without affecting the operational height of the coupler very much. In fact, some would insist that using shims to lift the knuckle to a proper height and attitude would be the better choice.
Crandell
The easiest way that I have found is with the special coupler tool that Kadee makes. It looks sort of like a pair of pliers with one jaw round and the other curved around the round one. A coupler height gauge is also very helpful.
Before bending the wire check to make sure that the coupler is not sagging. If it is sagging you should modify or adjust the coupler pocket. Sometimes a small shim is needed.
If you need to bend the wire place the special pliers as close to the coupler as you can with the round jaw on the inside of the curved wire. Press gently until the wire curves upward slightly. Check with the coupler gauge and repeat if necessary until the wire clears the gauge.
Bending the wire usually results in the end pointing up into the air. If you do not mind it looking that way you can leave it. For appearance and so that it works better on the uncoupler magnet I bend the tip of wire down until it is parallel with the track. To this I reverse the coupler pliers so that the round jaw is on the outside of the curved wire. I place the pliers as close to the end as I can and squeeze gently.
Working from the end of the car, I use regular pliers, placing the end of one jaw atop and to the rear of the coupler head, with the tip of the other jaw beneath the end of the trip pin. A gentle squeeze raises the tip while still maintaining the curve in the trip pin.
For trip pins that are too high, I find that needlenose pliers work better. Working from the side of the trip pin, grasp it with the jaws of the pliers - the deeper the "bite", the greater will be the amount the tip of the pin is lowered - and squeeze.
As an aside, make sure that it's only the trip pin that's too low - the trip pin may be properly adjusted but appear too low because the coupler itself is low. In this case, modify the mounting method or use the fibre washers offered by Kadee to raise the car.
Wayne
When I have one needing fixing, I just cut it off. Unless you are using magnetic uncouplers, they're not needed.
Springfield PA
fender777 Wahts the best way to bend that hook thing on couplers.Sometimes I have some that catch the frogs or rail going over switches.i know someone makes a plier like tool.But is their any other method.Right now I use my thumb on top and fingers on bottom'but this is hard and painfull sometimes.Thanks BOB
Let's see...what are those sayings????
"The proper tool for the job"
"You can tell the quality of the craftsman by the quality of his tools"
http://www.micromark.com/TRIP-PIN-BENDING-PLIER-HO-AND-O-SCALE,7521.html
Omaha53 The easiest way that I have found is with the special coupler tool that Kadee makes. It looks sort of like a pair of pliers with one jaw round and the other curved around the round one. A coupler height gauge is also very helpful. Before bending the wire check to make sure that the coupler is not sagging. If it is sagging you should modify or adjust the coupler pocket. Sometimes a small shim is needed.
+1
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page205.htm (to determine if pin and coupler are at right height)
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page237.htm
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
I would go buy a coupler height gauge. At the very least, have an NMRA standards gauge to make sure your coupler is at the correct height. The coupler height gauge has a little shelf under it. If your coupler mates up with the gauge but the pin hits the shelf, then the pin hangs too low.
I used to correct mine with pliers, then I discovered, as someone mentioned above, that the pins are non-functional if you do not use magnetic uncouplers, so now I just snip them off.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
I have not one magnet on my layout, but I just can't bring myself to cut off the trip pins. I really don't know why, there's little chance I'll go back to magnets. I only use the coupler height gauge to make sure the knuckle is at the correct height, the trip pins I use the Kadee pliers on and bend them up pretty far - I doubt any would work on magnets the way they are, but they are also definitely well clear of throwbars and switch frogs.
One of these days I will get around to cutting them off.....
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I just want to emphasize one point - when bending the coupler pins, GENTLY is the operative word!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Omaha53 Before bending the wire check to make sure that the coupler is not sagging. If it is sagging you should modify or adjust the coupler pocket. Sometimes a small shim is needed.
I have a couple of Walthers Trainline GP15s that literally drove me nuts. No matter what I did, the couplers sagged in the coupler pockets. It was when I turned the pocket around 180° that it fixed the problem. If you look closely at the coupler pocket lid, one end has a step on either side. This end should face towards the truck. Once you have the sagging problem fixed, it's a matter of using the Kadee trip pin pliers to adjust it to just clear the step on the Kadee coupler height gauge.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Thanks guys really great help.I do use magnets here and their but am starting to use Andy's pencil idea to unhook trains'it's fun to do.BOB
rrinker I have not one magnet on my layout, but I just can't bring myself to cut off the trip pins. I really don't know why, there's little chance I'll go back to magnets. I only use the coupler height gauge to make sure the knuckle is at the correct height, the trip pins I use the Kadee pliers on and bend them up pretty far - I doubt any would work on magnets the way they are, but they are also definitely well clear of throwbars and switch frogs. One of these days I will get around to cutting them off..... --Randy
You might want to think again about cutting the glad hands off. My layout is pretty large and I have some industrial areas that are hard to reach to uncouple cars, so I used the Kadee magnets between the rails. They don't show because there are buildings around them, but they do a great job of letting me leave cars at various locations without strain.
Cutting the gladhands off now may cause regret later when you find you need to use an uncoupler for a location. Think twice before cutting them off.
Bob
I find they cause more problems for me than they offer solutions. I also prefer to uncouple by hand, and that they snag, often on passenger cars (Spectrum ) where the end of the guard rail is in turnouts. Additionally, my opinion is that they look goofy on the front couplers of steam locomotives, so those all come off ere long.
pastorbob You might want to think again about cutting the glad hands off. My layout is pretty large and I have some industrial areas that are hard to reach to uncouple cars, so I used the Kadee magnets between the rails. They don't show because there are buildings around them, but they do a great job of letting me leave cars at various locations without strain. Cutting the gladhands off now may cause regret later when you find you need to use an uncoupler for a location. Think twice before cutting them off. Bob
Cutting the gladhands off now may cause regret later when you find you need to use an uncoupler for a
location. Think twice before cutting them off.
Bob --
I always thought that the "glad hands" referred to the part that actually hooks together. I'd never cut that off.
At my current stage of design and construction, it is unlikely I will ever need a magnetic uncoupler as you suggest.
If I do, I can change them out easily enough, albeit at some expense.