steem-
Little Silver is such a great place. It is so close to all of the "action" of Red Bank. Although I am stationed in California for the time being, my heart never strays far from my beloved Monmouth County. Neat little story about the doodle bugs, I would have loved to have been around in their heyday.
Sean
steemtrayn Will the doodlebugs have sound? When I lived in Little Silver, the bug would pass our house around 7 pm, and it's unique horn would get the dog howling, Sounded like a cross between an air horn and a police whistle.
Will the doodlebugs have sound? When I lived in Little Silver, the bug would pass our house around 7 pm, and it's unique horn would get the dog howling, Sounded like a cross between an air horn and a police whistle.
Yup, they'll have DCC and sound once (or if) I can find a decoder for a Brill gas-electric.
The two models I'm planning to run are PRR #4666 made by NJI......
The other is #4640 and made by W&R. The detail on this doodlebug is unbelievable!
Anyway, they'll both run with a trailing coach or N6 cabin car as they did on the prototype.
Jerry
Happy New Year everyone!I've completed the track work on my version of the Sea Girt Junction of the NY&LB and the PRR Freehold and Jamesburg Line. For what was considered a minor junction by the 1950s, it still had a pretty impressive layout of tracks, crossover and sidings...not to mention the second of only two four-track signal bridges on the NY&LB and the PRR's classic SG tower. The next phase of the layout is the double track helix to the upper level. Check it out here.
Thank you Jerry!!
Well, I've reached the end of the lower level on my HO model of the New York and Long Branch RR along the New Jersey coast. My next project is to bring the railroad up to the second level via a double-track helix. The lower level exits into the helix at Sea Girt and will emerge on the upper level at Belmar (sorry Spring lake).
I've been reluctantly holding off on scenicking the lower level until the upper level is built, which I think is a good idea. You can follow the latest progress on the layout here.
Two schools of thought on that one. If you scenic the lower level first, you might damage it while building the upper level. But it will be easier to scenic the lower level without the upper deck in the way. Tough call.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Two schools of thought on that one. If you scenic the lower level first, you might damage it while building the upper level. But it will be easier to scenic the lower level without the upper deck in the way. Tough call. --Randy
Yeah Randy, I gave that very thought a lot of consideration. As much as I'm itching to start scenicking the already-built lower level of the layout so it doesn't look like a vast slab of tan, I really need to continue progress to the upper level and get the initial construction done there.
At least I have a good 20+ inches projected between the two levels, so there should be plenty of room to tackle the scenery later. Getting the mainline built and running flawlessly should be my top priority before settling into detailing the layout. However, I'm still planning to proceed with detailing the Manasquan River rolling lift bridge area, shown below.
Great layout and fantastic progress so far. I really feel like a slacker now by comparison. I am still in the collecting rolling stock track and structures phase but hope to begin working on a layout soon.
Well, I finished building the helix on my NY&LB line this weekend (see below). Instead of scratch-building the helix like I originally planned, to save some time I purchased two Ashlin Designs helix kits. The two kits stacked give me the needed 21-22 inches of height with a max. 2 percent grade. The kits assembled without a hitch and were worth the price, imo.
The two comprimises I had to make, as much as I didn't want to, were the helix radius and the elimination of double tracking it. Space constraints forbid anything larger than the 22 inch radius (smaller) helix kit offered by Ashlin. As a result, the idea of double tracking it was discarded since the NY&LB is a mainly commuter passenger line. I'll just need to interlock the two entrances to the helix.
To see more about this latest project, check out my latest construction page. Take care everyone!
Layout looks great! Thanks for sharing.
Kelly
www,finescale360.com
The second level of the layout is now under construction and is rapidly moving along. The helix tie-in between the two levels worked out really well despite its tight track radius.
Here is an overview of the latest construction....
NY&LB RR circa 1950s
Wait, how does that work? 22" radius on a 2% grade is about 2.7" of clearance between levels, less the thickness of the roadbed. That's well under the NMRA standard of 3". Do your cars and locos fit?
Or alternately, with a 22" radius and 4" seperation, it's about a 3% grade, not 2%. I was just looking on their web site, for both sizes they say 4" seperation, 2% grade. The bigger one with 28" radius can't be 2% either. Either it's about 2.3% or it's not 4: between levels.
rrinker Wait, how does that work? 22" radius on a 2% grade is about 2.7" of clearance between levels, less the thickness of the roadbed. That's well under the NMRA standard of 3". Do your cars and locos fit? Or alternately, with a 22" radius and 4" seperation, it's about a 3% grade, not 2%. I was just looking on their web site, for both sizes they say 4" seperation, 2% grade. The bigger one with 28" radius can't be 2% either. Either it's about 2.3% or it's not 4: between levels. --Randy
Hmmm...you got me thinking Randy, so I double checked. The helix does indeed have 4 inches clearance between decks. And according to my digital level the grade checks between 2 to 2.5 degrees depending where i measure it.
I think the answer here is that I'm using TWO of the Ashlin helix kits stacked one on top of another to get the 21 inch elevation I needed. According to the NMRA, a 2% grade equals to a two inch rise per 100 inches of length. My helix contains over 660 inches of track on 5 and 3/4 loops ( I added up the 3 foot lengths of flex track in the helix). I know that the tight radius will simulate a grade probably closer to 3%, but its the best I could do with the space I have.
Anyway, it works ok for me so far, even with a 7 car passenger train behind a diesel. However, I have yet to run any steam on the helix. That's a whole other adventure, I'm sure.
Yeah, the grade HAS to be more than 2%. Should be consistent throughout the loops, too, I can't imagine it's made that sloppy. 5 loops at 22" radius ought to be 690 inches of track, an extra 3/4 of a turn should make the entire run almost 795 inches. That would be about a consistent 2.6% grade for a 21" rise.All very easily handled by most locos.
I'm just syaing they have that definitely wrong on their site, you can't do a 22" radius loop at 2% grade and get sufficient overhead clearance. 22" radius plus a little straight on the sides to make an oval, sure. Or up the grade a bit and it does fit in 22" radius loops.
rrinker Yeah, the grade HAS to be more than 2%. Should be consistent throughout the loops, too, I can't imagine it's made that sloppy. 5 loops at 22" radius ought to be 690 inches of track, an extra 3/4 of a turn should make the entire run almost 795 inches. That would be about a consistent 2.6% grade for a 21" rise.All very easily handled by most locos. I'm just syaing they have that definitely wrong on their site, you can't do a 22" radius loop at 2% grade and get sufficient overhead clearance. 22" radius plus a little straight on the sides to make an oval, sure. Or up the grade a bit and it does fit in 22" radius loops. --Randy
Yup, Randy, your right. I went down to the layout again with my GOOD level from the shop and indeed the helix grade measures a consistent 2 1/2% grade through the helix.
I guess I just took the their word on the grade of the helix and should have realized that 2% was too good to be true considering the dimensions of the kit (shame on me). Not that it will change anything, but they will be getting a message from me concerning their unrealistic grade claim (shame on them).
Thanks Randy for picking up on that.
Just installed the first section of LED lighting on the layout today. Check out the progress here.
I was blown away by the results of these lights. The consistancy and spread is unbelievable (and so is the power consumption)...a mere 18 watts of power for 16 feet of bright lighting. It is absolutely worth the price in the short term and more so in the long run.
Jerry,
I love to watch your construction! I was stationed at Ft Monmouth in 1970 and rode the NY&LB several times. I always found it interesting that a branch spur went through Ft Monmouth from Eatontown to Long Branch.
I was looking at your LED lighting. I want to light my lower level staging, and I have not been impressed with the Christmas 'Tube' and LED lights other have tried. What are the LED lighting strips you are using? They look like they really give out some good even light. Got the manufacturer/model information? And where you got them and what is the cost?
Good Luck with your layout!
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Are LED's dim-able?
jrbernier Jerry, I love to watch your construction! I was stationed at Ft Monmouth in 1970 and rode the NY&LB several times. I always found it interesting that a branch spur went through Ft Monmouth from Eatontown to Long Branch. I was looking at your LED lighting. I want to light my lower level staging, and I have not been impressed with the Christmas 'Tube' and LED lights other have tried. What are the LED lighting strips you are using? They look like they really give out some good even light. Got the manufacturer/model information? And where you got them and what is the cost? Good Luck with your layout! Jim Bernier
Thanks Jim!
These LED lights that I'm using are a flexible ribbon with the surface-mounted high output LED's lined up along it every inch and a half. The LED's are flat and without a lense so there is no focus of light, just a wash that is very consistant along the length of the ribbon.
A couple of nice things about it is that you can cut it to any length you need by using just a pair of scissors on the cut marks which are located every 4 inches along the ribbon. It's flexible and has a peel-off sticky backing. It also appears to be pretty rugged as well. It is powered by 12vdc and uses about 35 watts of power for a 16 foot length.
I got my lights at http://www.theledlight.com/flexible-ledstrips.htm , but I'm sure there must be other suppliers out there.
The lights I use are Daylight White. They also come in Warm White, Green, Red and Blue (maybe to simulate moonlight?) According to the web site, these LED lights are also dimmable.
They're still a bit pricey, but if you can afford it, I think it is definately worth it!
Hmm, that may be just the thing I need over my yard, on the slopign ceiling side of things. It's kind of dark there, and I was goign to mount a couple of stick up flourescent lights there but they would be liek right in your face. Those LEDs I could just stick on, even closer down to the layout so they wouldn;t be in your face plus they aren't glaring anyway. I'd need about 14'.
Another question - Your Ashlin Designs helix - Is it made out of 1/4" plywood or MDF? What about 'sagging' - does it seem to be real stable? I asked Rod at Ashlin Designs about a custom 30"/32.5" helix and he shot me a good price, He mentioned it would be built out of MDF. Most of the photos on his web site appear to have plywood 'grain' in the pieces.
Jim
jrbernier Another question - Your Ashlin Designs helix - Is it made out of 1/4" plywood or MDF? What about 'sagging' - does it seem to be real stable? I asked Rod at Ashlin Designs about a custom 30"/32.5" helix and he shot me a good price, He mentioned it would be built out of MDF. Most of the photos on his web site appear to have plywood 'grain' in the pieces. Jim
Jim,
I have some mixed feelings about the Ashlin Designs helix I built. The web site does show plywood pieces for the ramps. In reality, they are 1/4" MDF. I was surprised when it arrived. The web site also states that their helix kits have a 2% grade. The actual grade of the helix kits they offer, regardless of radius, seems to be between 2.5 and 2.7% grade.
The helix I built went together pretty easily. I did have to tinker with a few support legs that seemed slightly off...meaning the slots cut into it for the ramps didn't line up exactly. Could have been my error in hindsight.
I think the MDF ramps are pretty solid, since they are quarter pieces and supported in quarters. I was able to pick up and move the completed helix around my basement...even roll it through some tight aisles without any damage, so the finished product is solid, provided that everything is glued together really well with nothing less than carpenters glue.
I think I made the right choice with this helix, other than I couldn't double track it due to the small radius. A larger radius helix from Ashline might not contain the issues I had. I'll consider them for my second helix in the future which will have a radius more in line with what you're seeking (and hopefully capable of double tracks).
Hope all of this babbling helps!
These lights are very intriguing. If you couple together several strips, do you power them all with a single transformer?
Thanks,
David
MECman These lights are very intriguing. If you couple together several strips, do you power them all with a single transformer? Thanks, David
David, the led ribbon lights can be coupled together and run in series off of one transformer. However... I would probably limit the length to two 16 foot strips, or a total of 32 feet. Each 16 foot strip draws 1.5 amps of current at 12vdc and since the power bus on the strip is just a foil trace, I'd limit it to 3 amps for safety reasons. I'll have to confirm that with the manufacturer.
A way around this would be to set up the ribbon lights so they are connected to the power source in parallel. This is what I plan to do on my layout. Just make sure your power supply has a high enough current rating to handle what you want to connect.
Fanastic! I am originally from Long Branch,but moved away at a young age. I spent summers visiting Point Pleasant and later worked in the Middletown area for a short period. I was always fascinated by the NY&LB and thought it a great railroad to model. I am curious if you will include any the US Navy trackage for Earle Naval Ammunition Depot? The ammunition depot rail line connected with the CNJ at Colt's Neck and Leonardo, but only crossed underneath the NY&LB south of Middletown. The line was constructed in 1944 and was always an all diesel operation.
3rdT Fanastic! I am originally from Long Branch,but moved away at a young age. I spent summers visiting Point Pleasant and later worked in the Middletown area for a short period. I was always fascinated by the NY&LB and thought it a great railroad to model. I am curious if you will include any the US Navy trackage for Earle Naval Ammunition Depot? The ammunition depot rail line connected with the CNJ at Colt's Neck and Leonardo, but only crossed underneath the NY&LB south of Middletown. The line was constructed in 1944 and was always an all diesel operation.
I recently witnessed a short freight move on this line where it passes over Route 34 in Colts Neck. I nearly drove right off the road watching it! What timing!
The double track Earle rail line and the adjacent access road you described will be modeled when I reach the Middletown area of the layout, but it will only be a scene and not connected to any part of the operating trackage.
Jerry this coming along very nicely. Looking forward to the rest of your updates!!!
New York&Long Branch 3rdT: Fanastic! I am originally from Long Branch,but moved away at a young age. I spent summers visiting Point Pleasant and later worked in the Middletown area for a short period. I was always fascinated by the NY&LB and thought it a great railroad to model. I am curious if you will include any the US Navy trackage for Earle Naval Ammunition Depot? The ammunition depot rail line connected with the CNJ at Colt's Neck and Leonardo, but only crossed underneath the NY&LB south of Middletown. The line was constructed in 1944 and was always an all diesel operation. I recently witnessed a short freight move on this line where it passes over Route 34 in Colts Neck. I nearly drove right off the road watching it! What timing! The double track Earle rail line and the adjacent access road you described will be modeled when I reach the Middletown area of the layout, but it will only be a scene and not connected to any part of the operating trackage. Jerry
3rdT: Fanastic! I am originally from Long Branch,but moved away at a young age. I spent summers visiting Point Pleasant and later worked in the Middletown area for a short period. I was always fascinated by the NY&LB and thought it a great railroad to model. I am curious if you will include any the US Navy trackage for Earle Naval Ammunition Depot? The ammunition depot rail line connected with the CNJ at Colt's Neck and Leonardo, but only crossed underneath the NY&LB south of Middletown. The line was constructed in 1944 and was always an all diesel operation.
That's I thought you would do with the Earle line,It's a very interesting operation in itself, but little known as its on the "otherside of the fence." A number of years ago, the navy actually allowed a fan trip over the line consisting of ex CNJ coaches pulled by USN locomotives. I look forward to seeing all the future progress on your layout.
Here's a brief construction update on my HO New York and Long Branch line along the Jersey Coast.
Construction of the first half of the layout benchwork is now completed (lower and upper level) with trackwork commencing on the upper level off the helix. The second half of the layout is waiting for a kitchen renovation right above it to be undertaken sometime in the next year. Until then, I have a lot of work ahead of me on what is already done.
The LED lighting has worked out really well (see below) and I hope to have operations on both levels under way in the next few months.
You can check the current progress here.
Awesome - just Awesome!! Thank you for the updates and pics - I have my "layout" planned and items bought - just saving for the cellar to be remodeled properly. Your progress keeps my hopes high!! - Chris