I've started thinking about installing a backdrop on my layout. What material should I use? The backdrop is straight, so the material wouldn't have to be able to bend.
1/8" masonite comes to mind, just screw it to the back of your layout, using small clips so the top corners meet and paint away. Or 1/8" foam core board.
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Johnnny_reb 1/8" masonite comes to mind, just screw it to the back of your layout, using small clips so the top corners meet and paint away. Or 1/8" foam core board.
Masonite would be perfect without the need for curves. Comes in 2'x4' panels, ideal for backdrops.
I use 1/4" Masonite for my backdrops, but 1/8" is lighter, cheaper and works just fine.
I would shy away from foam core board if you intend to paint it because it warps when wet from the paint application.
Rich
Alton Junction
What is the smallest radius possible with the masonite before breaking?
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
I use 3/16" Masonite for back drop mounting as well as for the fascia on my railroad for the simple reason it bends real easy. They used to sell Masonite with a smooth and a textured side but I haven't seen it lately in either of the big box stores. As far as how tight of a bend, thats a good question I would suspect 24" radius should be no problem but I can't say for sure. I have an approx. 30" bend in the backdrop in the corners of my train room. I will say that when it comes to hiding the seams it's not as easy as using dry wall and one of the seams already started to crack but I don't care as it's now pretty much hidden.
Believe it or not you can bend dry wall. I watched a guy do it by cutting 1/2" wide strips down the back side of the dry wall on the 4' side.he had cove support pieces cut out of 3/4" plywood that he screwed into the studs and then just ran beads of construction adhesive on the inside curve portion of the plywood. He then fastened t to the wall with regular drywall screws.. When I asked him how did he ever figure out how to do that, he told me by breaking a lot of dry wall.
tgindyWhat is the smallest radius possible with the masonite before breaking?
The layout facia here is 1/8" Masonite, curved to a radius of about 8". The curve in the backdrop (around an outside corner) is about 16", and most of the inside corners are between 18" and 24", all with 1/8" Masonite.
Wayne
doctorwayneThe layout facia here is 1/8" Masonite, curved to a radius of about 8". The curve in the backdrop (around an outside corner) is about 16", and most of the inside corners are between 18" and 24", all with 1/8" Masonite.
Nice work -- CR&T will be looking at some backdrop-curving, mostly inside corners, later this year.
Here's one of mine. Under 10" radius. I mounted it with 10/32 machine screws and "T nuts". If I ever move it'll come off in a flash with the drill.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I made mine out of .080 sheet styrene per an article by David Popp, Step By Step, in the 03/2006 MR, p. 44.
As I recall, I followed it pretty much step-by-step (no pun intended). I went to a sheet styrene company I found nearby after an internet search and had them rip a 4x8 sheet into (2) 2x4 sheets so I could cove the corner and run the backdrop along two walls.
usplastic.com may have the sheet online. I painted the clouds by following the technique illustrated in one of the first 3 or 4 Dream, Plan, Build videos. This was in late 2006, and the backdrop is still going strong.
Rick Krall
As mentioned styrene is good. I can get it at my local sign shop, they can cut it to your desired width too. There is also a vinyl and aluminium flashing available at lumber stores. Some of the metal flashings come prepainted, a good undercoat. The flashing comes in rolls of varying lengths and widths, so you might be able to do it all with one piece.
Just some thoughts.
Good luck
Not so much in reply to the original poster (who required only a straight backdrop) but to anyone contemplating finishing a room in order to accommodate a train layout, some pre-planning will allow you cove the corners of the room and utilise the walls as your backdrop.
My layout is in a purpose-built basement room. I drywalled the space using 1/2" drywall, applied vertically (to make best use of the tapered edges), but, at all corners, both inside and outside ones, used 3/8" board for at least one stud spacing on either side of the corner. Use a tape measure to roughly measure the length of the desired curve at each corner, then cut a piece of suitable width from 1/8" Masonite. Place one edge of the Masonite butted against the protruding 1/2" drywall, then press firmly at the centre of the Masonite. As it curves into the corner, the other edge will "pop" into place, butting itself against the 1/2" board on the other side of the corner. While tension will hold the piece in place, I drilled and countersunk for drywall screws along both edges of the Masonite, then mudded and taped as for regular drywall finishing.
This drawing shows the procedure outlined above - the red rerpresents the drywall tape, the green, the mud:
The result is a seamless backdrop.
In this photo, the corner of the room is directly behind the lead loco:
And in this picture, to the right of the red structure:
And here, at the right edge of the photo:
My backdrop is 1/8" masonite, but I'm unhappy with the appearance of the seams; will prolly take down and go with a continuous piece of flashing at some point.
SwayinMy backdrop is 1/8" masonite, but I'm unhappy with the appearance of the seams; will prolly take down and go with a continuous piece of flashing at some point.
You should be able to make the seams invisible. I did it by first gluing a six inch wide piece of masonite on the back of the backdrop over the seam. Next fill the crack with drywall mud and tape over the crack with that nylon drywall tape. Then over the next few days layer the mud and feather it out. Sand in between each layer.
My friend taught me to drywall. He said the biggest secret to not seeing cracks, or other repair jobs, is to close your eyes and run your fingers over the repair. If you can feel any bumps or rough spots with your fingers, you will most certainly see them when you paint.
Here is a pic of mine in the process. The crack on the right I could stick my finger through before I started. Now you cannot see them no matter how close you are. Good luck.
Vinyl flashing can be difficult to paint unless you apply wallpaper liner with vinyl paste first. Sheet alluminum is tricky. It bends, creases and scratches very easily.
--D
iv heard of 1/4" hardboard spray painted as a back drop you should be able to get it form home depot , lowes. etc. hope that helps !
I too have used 1/8" masonite or hardboard to form curved backdrops. But I found it difficult to get the stuff into the proper position secured with screws. My wife and I wrestled with it and finally got it done. When puttied and painted it looked great. Recently we had to take it down to relocate. It turns out the masonite retains its shape (though I'm not sure how long that takes). So the next time I plan to preshape it with weights and prime it until it holds shape. It should then be easy to place in final position.
skipm My wife and I wrestled with it and finally got it done.
My wife and I wrestled with it and finally got it done.
I know the feeling. There was no way I was going to get mine on perfectly by trying to hold it in place. So I clamped it into the approximate location and left the clamps just loose enough so I could tap it into place. And then drilled my holes.
As far as a masonite/hardboard backdrop losing its shape if you take it off. All you have to do is glue some strips of masonite around the bend on the back, and it will hold its shape just like spline roadbed does. Although I am not sure why you would want to do this unless there was a problem with cracking paint or something.
If I were to use styrene, what thickness should I use and where should I look for it?
tttwhere should I look for it?
My local sign shop carries/can get most any thickness. Doesn't charge shipping when it comes in with his order. Will cut it to size I need. Some shops may charge for cutting, others may not.
Good luck,