I was practicing ballasting on some HO scale track using Woodland Scenics Lt. Gray fine ballast (at least I think it is the fine ballast, it is the one that has the consistency of sand.) I laid the ballast down, soaked it with 70% isopropyl alcohol, and then saturated it with a watered down white glue mixture. My only problem was when I went to brush the granules that ended up on the ties, I would end up brushing more on to the ties than I had to begin with (I did this before I began to glue everything).
So my question to you is: Should I step up to the medium ballast? Or is there something that I am missing when it comes to the entire ballasting project?
Also I guess, as a second question, should I ballast the inside the rails first? Or should I ballast their outside first?
Any suggestions you can give will be extremely helpful
I always get the ballast cleaned off the tops of the ties BEFORE I wet and glue. It's a real pain to try to do it afterwards.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
It takes a bit to develop your own techniquie for ballasting. What works for some or even most may not be your choice. Some helpful hints to try: Find that soft bristled brush (even cutting off bristles) if desired. I use a natural bristle 3/4" and flux brushes. At times, I will go back and use a foam to move some of those stubborn grains that you've found out. Lightly tapping on the railhead and slight puffs blowing at an angle will help move the ballast.
When I start to ballast a section, I will paint on some white glue on the roadbed shoulder, then sprinkle ballast to adhere to the shoulder. If there is a substantial grade away from the roadbed, I will place some cardstock to catch the stay ballast. Then work w/ a small plastic spoon to control the amount and placement between the rails. A piece of cardstock w/ rail notches will help plow any piles before spreading with your choice of brush. The rapping on the railhead at this time helps set and allows the grains to nestle under tha rail. Now that glued on ballast is a bit set, you can "play with the ballast profile. That glued stuff will help hold the shoulder ballast somewhat. You will always end up with some stray grains on the ties and rail web. That can be removed or flecked off later.
When wetting down w/ a sprayer, start by lightly misting and allow to rain down. Once fairly wet you can direct the "fine" spray closer to the ballast. The trick is to wet and not blow the stuff around. This is especially true if using WS ballast.It is very light (ground walnut shells or somthing like that). The Scenic Xpress and Arizona stone is heavier and tends to stay put much better.
Remember that once stone is wet, and glued down it will stay a much darker shade than dry.
Everyone will end up w/ their own method that work for them. It's just a matter of keep trying and experimenting to find what works for you.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
To answer your second question, i don't think it makes that much of a difference. It's just a matter of what you prefer. Personally, i do the middle first. Not sure why, just a personal preference.
And remember, there's no subsitute for experience! Keep trying, you'll get it.
jammin.madrid I was practicing ballasting on some HO scale track using Woodland Scenics Lt. Gray fine ballast (at least I think it is the fine ballast, it is the one that has the consistency of sand.) I laid the ballast down, soaked it with 70% isopropyl alcohol, and then saturated it with a watered down white glue mixture. My only problem was when I went to brush the granules that ended up on the ties, I would end up brushing more on to the ties than I had to begin with (I did this before I began to glue everything). So my question to you is: Should I step up to the medium ballast? Or is there something that I am missing when it comes to the entire ballasting project? Also I guess, as a second question, should I ballast the inside the rails first? Or should I ballast their outside first? Any suggestions you can give will be extremely helpful
Fine ballast is supposedly closer to HO scale than medium ballast, but I use medium ballast exclusively. You are taking the appropriate measures to secure the ballast, rubbing alcohol to wet it, then a 50/50 water/glue (matte medium) mixture to secure it, but when you do that with fine ballast, it takes on the consistency of wet beach sand. You will have far greater success using the same measures with medium ballast.
Also, as others have suggested, spend some time leveling the ballast before you attempt to secure it. If you use a small brush to sweep all of the ballast off the times, then spray the alcohol on the ballast, it should stay in place as you apply the water/glue mixture. I use a tablespoon to apply the water/glue mixture, tilting the spoon to one side. Take your time and you will be pleased with the results.
Incidentally, I use a 50/50 mix of Woodland Scenics Light Gray and Dark Gray and the results look super.
Alton Junction
jammin.madrid Any suggestions you can give will be extremely helpful
I've used a bristle brush but I like taking a small foam brush with beveled edges and cutting it so it just fits between the rails. My first attempts were difficult because I was putting down too much ballast. After spreading it out with the foam brush. I carefully knock off any ballast off the ties and if necessary add some if needed.I then tamp the ballast down with the pointed end of the brush.
On the shoulders where the ballast meets the layout top I like to take an old credit card and groom the ballast to get a nice sharp line.
As others have said every one does it a little differently so play around with it and you will find what works best for you.
Good luck!
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
Fine ballast does look like sand, and I thought really meant for N scale ballasting, while the medium for HO. I bought fine first, then decided the medium looked better to scale so I bought that. To each his own.
Working on the outside of the rails gives you a chance to play at it to "get it right" before going between the rails where the wheels will ride.
A very short firm thin bristle brush can help to "sweep" off the ties. Static cling can be a bad thing while doing this. Less is more.
Practice and PATIENCE is needed just like putting together a stubborn model kit.
I don't have much patience, LOL.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.