Model highways. What works- what doesn't. Best ideas

[HHPATH56]

I prefer to use Hydrocal plaster, rather than Sculptmold, for roadways. Sculptmold is best for "sculpting " mountains. For areas where there is extreme "hands on" , I use Cement filler from a can. Hydrocal is extremely hard and water proof, so I use it for water proofing the bottom of rivers. It does require priming, in order to paint it. Bob Hahn

[MisterBeasley]

I use Durham's Water Putty.  The trick is to add a bit of vinegar to slow setting, and to use a wet foam brush to keep smoothing it down as it's setting.

 

[Doc in CT]

Sir Madog

In Oct. 2007 MR, IIRC, there was a feature on a layout of a guy, using asphalt shingles for his roads.

 

If memory serves there was a good thread on a similar approach recently here in the forum: http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/169861/1864501.aspx#1864501.

Also shingles mentioned in: http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/104516/1242655.aspx#1242655 which has lot's of other suggestions for materials.

 To OP
Once you decide on an approach, you might want to look that the follow set of photographs.  Excellent hi-resolution photos of details on construction of a (real) asphalt road with drainage ditches: http://www.gettysburgdaily.com/?p=282

Alan

[Anonymous]

 In Oct. 2007 MR, IIRC, there was a feature on a layout of a guy, using asphalt shingles for his roads. I use 2 mm Styrofoam sheetstock for all type of roads, from tarmac, concrete all the way to cobblestones. Just need a lot of patience to do that. Coloring is done with washes of India ink. Light washes for concrete roads, darker washes for aspahalt roads and cobblestones.

[CTValleyRR]

Split Reduction

I have been building highways and roadways using old 1/4 inch panelling cut with a jig saw to the width and curvature needed. Over this base I have been applying Woodland scenics paving material. I also use "sculptamold" for a roaway base, but it really is a bear to sand smooth after it sets.

I'm curious to learn what others have found to be a successful way to create model highways and roadways.  We drive on these roadway every day but I seldom see "realistic" roads modeled in the usual publications...  

Split reduction

Sculptamold hard to sand smooth?  You must be using the alternative, high tensile strength product.

I make roads using sculptamold.  I mix it to about he consistancy of oatmeal, and scrape it mostly smooth with an artists palette knife after I lay it, making sure there are no large dents or bumps in the material..  When it's try, a few passes with a standard sanding block and 200 grit sandpaper smooth it out nicely.  I color it with a mix of Grimy Black and Dark Gull Gray washes.

I have used the adhesive-backed, flexible foam road surfaces available from Noch and others, but I am not happy with the results.  They look too uniform and well maintained for NE roads, the lines are the wrong color, the adhesive comes up after a couple of months, and it's impossible to hide seams / joints.

[Grampys Trains]

 This is styrene, from a for sale sign, painted grimy black, and weathered with gray side walk chalk. DJ.

 

 

[Split Reduction]

I have been building highways and roadways using old 1/4 inch panelling cut with a jig saw to the width and curvature needed. Over this base I have been applying Woodland scenics paving material. I also use "sculptamold" for a roaway base, but it really is a bear to sand smooth after it sets.

I'm curious to learn what others have found to be a successful way to create model highways and roadways.  We drive on these roadway every day but I seldom see "realistic" roads modeled in the usual publications...  

Split reduction