tomwayburn I wonder if anyone else has used photographs from the computer for road surfaces and markings.
I remember at least one article a few years back about this very topic (I believe in RMC - although it may have been one of the then second tiers like Mainline Modeler) - I think the author included images of man-hole covers in addition to road patches, markings etc. Didn't seem all that exciting (although I guess it made some impression if I remember it after a number of years), probably as it came in a year when there was a wave of 'take digitial photos and use the images on your layout' articles (for buildings, for backdrops, for graffiti, for roads, you name it)
I build my concrete highways & Black top roads with foam-board cut to fit, put down with latex caulk, painted with acrylic paint & weathered with chalk. I still need to add my center line striping. (By using the weekly Hobby Lobby & Michael's coupons you can save on the foam board, paint ect.)
Here's another good place for sheet goods:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22883&catid=715
Prices are pretty decent, fast, reasonably priced shipping and absolutely the BEST customer service you could hope for.
I'm not too far from the Ohio location (St Clair Shores, Mich); I have never placed an order that I didn't get overnight.
Lots of really great ideas and fine photos. Seems like there are quite a few methods to achieve believable model roadways. I will probably give a few of the methods a try myself. It is fair to say that what works well for some does not work for others, but there is no "right way" to model them. Real world observations, patience, practise, experience and care seem to be the key ingredients no matter what the material used.
Thanks
Split Reduction
Make a roadbed surface using wood or any other surface you would normally use as a base, even cardstock or cardboard.
Then I use Arizona Rock's Concrete roadway compound. It's powdered grey rock. To make a cement style compound, simply mix wet ballasting glue 50% water (or more), white glue and a surfactant like 2 drops of DW liquid. Make it the consistency of very thick stew sauce, not quite as stiff as joint compound, but not so it pours easily.
To make asphalt use black color dye or water based paint to taste. Don't use their "asphalt" mix, it comes out too reddish (unless you are doing older Oregon highways which had volcanic rock in the Asphalt mix.... then it's just fine).
Spread it with a soft spatula to the best level you can. For concrete style finishing I then use a 1-1/2" wide wooden wallpaper joint roller just like it's a steamroller! Gently roll it in the direction of the roadway with no weight applied, to make the compound settle. It will "float" your roller with a bead of water.
When it dries you get good and inconsistent shades just like the real thing. You can cast pour-lay it just like real concrete if you want to make steps, sidewalks, or poured road sections (I found the latter to be time consuming). Its set up time allows working. If you dislike your results you can wet it and re-smooth.
When dry, you can draw concrete cracks and expansion joints with a fine dark brown felt-tipped pen or a pencil. Just keep re-sharpening the pencil. The roadway takes dry transfer striping well if you did a good job smoothing.
Seal the job if with matte medium spray you expect friends to put down drink cups or spill on your highway.
You'll like the results.
Try using Bondex blacktop patching compound; spread thin and shaped while wet. Wet sanding with a sanding sponge leases a nice coating of gray dust. - from the Rensselaer Model Railroad Society website NEB&W Guide to Roads, Streets & Sidewalks
If you are unfamiliar with this website, it's run by the RMRS at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute in Troy, NY and has a nominal $5 a month subscription price for unlimited access to the site (they describe it as "over 5,500 pages and 35,645 photos") . [link to sign-up information]
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/