I had a difficult time replacing the wire that connects a Tortoise switch machine to a turnout throwbar. Normally I replace the 0.02x piano wire with 0.032" before installation, but missed one. This machine was near an L-girder joist; very hard to get the screw out that holds the wire. Shinohara code83 HO. My questions are:
Has anyone replaced the Tortoise screw with something easier to access? I would prefer a hex design for an open wrench instead of that philips screw. I'd also like a straight wire without the bend so extra wire just protrudes past the machine.
Has anyone figured out an easier way to thread a pre-cut wire through the turnout bar? I use a long wire initially and cutoff the excess (easy). Later if you remove the machine it's hell to get the wire back in. I'm thinking a piece of tubing or something to guide or hold the wire at the turnout end.
Terry
TBat55 I would prefer a hex design for an open wrench instead of that philips screw
That trick worked for me on one hard to reach machine. Pre-thread the hole then cut the sheetmetal screw short and install it. I haven't found a solution to your second issue though.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
TBat55Has anyone figured out an easier way to thread a pre-cut wire through the turnout bar? I use a long wire initially and cutoff the excess (easy). Later if you remove the machine it's hell to get the wire back in. I'm thinking a piece of tubing or something to guide or hold the wire at the turnout end.
I might be missing your point here, but I've simply replaced the cut wire with a new, longer wire similar to what I installed in the first place, ultimately cutting it off as though it were a first-time installation.
Rick Krall
Hi,
Yes I agree it's very difficult to put back the wire in the hole of the trowbar.
I prefer to replace it, by a longer one and cut it again when the Tortoise is replaced.
I try always to put the switch motors in a accesible place, if I cant I use RC airplane rigid plastic command to throw the far away turnout, so I can unscrew the machine easily for maintenance.
You can also put the motor on the table and hide it whith a structures or a part of the scenery.
No good solution for the actuator wire.
Good luck.
Marc
To me, this would be a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!"... But with a little advance planning during the construction phase, you can avoid all kinds of heartache like this.
I'll preface this by saying that I do not enjoy crawling around under the layout to do things. So, I try to accommodate potential trouble spots with some basic features that make maintenance a little easier on the back.
Here's how I do automated turnouts...
In this instance, I cut a bit of 1/2" plywood subroadbed that's set under the turnout. This allows me to drill out and mount the Tortoise at the work bench, as well as attach the wiring. The plywood base is then snugged into the foam (or could be pieced into the rest of your roadbed) so it can be easily removed from above for servicing. Since the odds of failure are pretty slim, I go ahead and fully scenic around it, but I leave the joiners at the turnout itself unsoldered. If something gets hitched up, I just wet down the ballast, disconnect the flex track around the turnout, and pull the assembly out for servicing. Using one of those wiring harnesses that snug onto the terminal strip makes it even easier.
Once everything is fixed, you just put it back into place, re-connect the track, and touch up the scenery and ballast. Easy Peasy.
Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net