Hi,
I am currently planning a British outline display layout which I intend to exhibit at model railroading events in our area. The layout will have to be build in 3 section, two of them for the layout itself, and the third one as an attachable traverser/fiddle yard.
The layout is not in a rectangular shape, but has a bit of a "belly". Here is a pic to show what I mean:
For most of my recent layouts I have used an open grid frame, covered with plywood, but the shape of the layout kind of prohibits this method. The layout needs to lightweight as well.
How can I build a lightweight, but still sturdy benchwork for this layout?
Your help is appreciated!
Ulrich,
For a strong, protable yet lightweight layout, I would suggest you follow the practice of many of the "Module" clubs.
Of coarse you won't need to adhere to many of the standards of the track placement for your needs.
In my opinion, I would use the 1x4 pine boxed frame that you're used to. The irregular shape or "belly" you mention can be done by just building those 2 modules as a trapazoid. If that slight curvature is really needed that can be accomplished by blocking out the masonite facia.This frame could be decked w/ 1/4" luan to stiften the box and covered w/ extruded foam. The reason for the 3 1/2" stock is to protect any sw motors and other under layout wiring, etc as well as providing a more secure depth for leg attachment. The traverser could be built w/ a smaller dimentional material to allow room for the traverser itself. You can adjust the traverser height to the track level of the layout.
I would place the legs on the )2) end modules and "hang" the center. Alignment doweling and small C clamps should be sufficient to secure. Of coarse the legs will need levelers.
There are numerous methods of leg attachment. If the module people don't have other imput here, I suggest you go to Yahoo groups HO Modules and pick their brains there.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HOmodules/
Hope this helps.
I assume that this is some sort of industrial switching layout w/ that traverser.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Bob,
thanks for your answer - gives me a lot of food for thought!
The layout actually depicts a branchline terminus in northern Wales/UK. It will be in O scale, with a lot of detail I will have to scratchbuild. It is intended to be ready by Oct. 2011, but I am not sure , whether I can meet the deadline, as financing is not yet secured.
In any case it is a challenging, but rewarding project, as even the rolling stock has to be assembled from brass kits.
Search for Jon Grant's photo-essays on his "Sweethome Alabama" project. It's a modular display layout similar to what you're planning. He has a lot of helpful construction tips, including his technique for keeping rails properly aligned at the junction of two modules.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
You might want to look into Iain Rice's "airplane wing" style benchwork. It uses thin plywood to basically make a torsion box.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
nbrodar You might want to look into Iain Rice's "airplane wing" style benchwork. It uses thin plywood to basically make a torsion box.
Similar to the "Sippin' and Switchin' Society" waffle-style sections
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
I got another idea to consider. I have seen some free-mo module use an all foam approach with the only support is ¾” plywood ends and 1/8” hard board sides. The idea is that the tabletop is 4” of foam and the 1/8” hardboard (6” tall) is glued to the sides to help provide support from sagging and protects it from the bumps from transportation. The ends are 6” tall and have a shelf that the foam sits on (also ~ 6”) and provides a place to clamp between module and a place for legs. What is nice about this construction is the foam would allow you to have any outside profile to the layout and as long as you don’t plan on really deep scenery elements that go across the center of the module you will be ok structurally. The people that I know that have done this says that it hold up really well and if you want to install any switch machines you can use the method I used (plug for my YouTube video linked below).
Chris
Lancaster, CA
Check out my railroad at: Buffalo and Southwestern
Photos at:Flicker account
YouTube:StellarMRR YouTube account
The part of the foam that curves outward would still need support, least it crack off.
I don't see why a variant on open grid wouldn't work (without all the work in a waffle design). It's a matter of cutting a six inch wide piece of plywood to match the curve to form the outer edge from below (assuming the top is also shaped plywood) and then fitting a suitable fascia (what thickness of plywood would bend to the curve?) to the front edge. I would add joists every foot. The current MR project is designed to be portable and that used L-girder/joist construction.
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
I like the 5-6mm plywood egg crate idea. I see that used to make light strong table tops. The "belly" can be made from the light ply. For the top you can use foam simply hot glued to the ply from underneath. Or something like Liquid Nails glue for foam to fasten it down. BILL
Folks,
just to say thanks for all the valuable input you gave me.
I guess I will stay with the method I have successfully applied in many years, i.e. open grid + plywood. It is easy to build, and all the needed materials are readily available in my hometown. I have to admit, that employing the pink or blue foam stuff is an intriguing idea, but the stuff is awfully expensive over here.