What is the best way to add elevation to HO scale layout?

[GE_AC_LOCO]

I want to add elevation to my layout, but I don't want to use that styrofoam crap found at hobby shops. I'm too cheap to buy that stuff, and I really don't like it. Also my mainline is 3 rails which would require me to buy a ton of that stuff. What is the best way to add elevation, and how? I know there are way better modelers out there that have awesome ideas for increasing grade. Thanks Rail Fans, M

[MisterBeasley]

There are lots of different systems.  The best one for you probably depends on how your benchwork is constructed, and how much effort you want to put into the project.  The Woodland Scenics foam risers you referred to will give you a well-defined grade that you can curve easily, but you'll pay for the ease of construction.  At the other end of the scale, using open benchwork with spline sub-roadbed will produce a fine result, but the initial effort and learning curve can be daunting.

I have a simple, open frame bench, and I use 2-inch construction foam for my base.  I use supports made from 1x2 lumber to elevate sections of the base to get higher elevations.  Where I need to change the elevation of the track, I simply cut a piece of the 2-inch foam and use it for a ramp, supporting it at varying elevations to get it to climb.  It looks like this from underneath:

I tried cutting a ramp out of foam.  I had a lot of trouble getting the nice, flat contour I wanted.  This technique of using a flat piece of foam and varying the supports works much better.

[Aralai]

 I cut an incline out of foam and can concur that it is both messy and tedious to get a nice smooth incline. It can be done, but there are easier ways. I have also used the method of plywood cutout but it also needs work at the top end to ensure a smooth transition.

Foam cut:

Plywood:

 

[HHPATH56]

Personally, I prefer to use molding strips of wood and use wood shims to support it every six inches or so of scrap lumber, that glue or screw to the 1/2" plywood layout top. I like to cut the plywood layout top in smooth curves, and avoid sharp corners. For undulations in the terrain, I use scraps of wood, covered with heavy screen wire. The covered with plastic cloth. Finally, I apply Sculptmold plaster . For roadways, and river bases, it is best to apply smooth Hyrdocal plaster. , Hydrocal plaster requires a primer paint, before applying the terrain spray paint. I apply Concrete Patching, from a can. to areas that get hard hand pressure. Bob Hahn