Woodland Scenics Plaster Cloth Holes

[jbdbackfan]

I searched for previous posts and am new to scenery (this is my second layout, the first I never had rising scenery).   I am building rock ledges by stacking ripped pieces of foam board layered on top of eachother.  I am using woodland scenics plaster cloth and am finding the holes on the cloth are impossible to close in all places, especially on the indents of the ledges, etc.   Any advice as to how to close these holes?  Also, would painting a second layer on top of these holes fix the problem?  

Thanks,

Joe

[cowman]

Though I haven't used any yet, any demonstrations I  have seen use two layers of the cloth, recommending putting the second on before the first is dry.  They say if you rewet it too many times it gets too brittle.  Since your first layer is already dry I would say lightly wet your first layer with a fine mist of water and put the second on.  You should be OK as your rocks are already on, you won't be wetting to get castings to stick to your base.

Good luck,

[twhite]

Joe: 

If you're building rock ledges out of foam, my suggestion would be that instead of using the WS plaster cloth to cover them, using either hydrocal or Sculptamold applied with a thin-bladed knife, working the countours in with the blade. 

I use WS plaster cloth to cover most of my scenery, usually overlapping layers, but for my rock-work, I generally go to a thin layer of Sculptamold, either using a casting, or applying it directly and working it.  The Sculptamold will stick to anything--foam or a hydrocal base, and has a working time of about 1-2 hours.  It gives a 'grainy' finish when dried--quite rock-like--and takes staining very well. 

Other modelers might chime in here with their techniques, also.  I know that Art Hill makes absolutely SPECTACULAR mountains out of stacked foam, using--I believe--Gypsolite for the rock details.  Perhaps he'll see this thread and answer your question with his techniques. 

Sculptamold works for me, but I've seen really terrific rockwork using other compounds.   The problem for WS cloth for rockwork is that it really isn't flexible enough for the small details. 

Just my thoughts.

Tom   

[Seamonster]

A second layer is a good idea, mostly for strength. You'll never hide the holes. After all, it's gauze and gauze has a very coarse weave. I use drywall compound over my plaster gauze, but any of the suggestions already posted will work just as well.

[dgwinup]

Yes, those holes can be filled in.  You can either apply a second layer of plaster cloth or you can apply a different coating over the existing cloth.  Sometimes, you can fill the holes as you apply the plaster cloth simply by using an old paint brush to spread the plaster evenly on the cloth.

The different coating can be Sculptamold, as already suggested, or simply a thin mix of plaster of paris (mixed to a pancake batter consistancy or a little thinner).  The plaster batter can be brush painted onto the cloth.

If you're feeling adventurous, you might try misting the plaster cloth with a fine spray of water, then sprinkle dry plaster of paris onto the cloth.  Lightly mist it again with water.  When dry, the holes should be covered and the ground will have a bit of a rough texture to it, similar to dirt.

You said you were building the ledges using plaster cloth.  Are you expecting the vertical portions to look like rocks?  I think you may be disappointed.  If you are planning on adding rock castings on the ledges, you should be all right.

[jbdbackfan]

 I stacked layers of foam board ripped at various points to create layered ledges.  I then put the plaster cloth over the ledges and squished it in the ledges.  I have some of it done, and it looks good painted, I just have some of the tiny holes.  I'll touch up the trouble areas with the sculpt a mold stuff everyone is talking about and repaint those areas.

 

Thanks for all the help

[jbdbackfan]

 Nice layout Tom

[Medina1128]

I used the cardboard strip lattice, covered by plaster cloth. I know the instructions on the plaster cloth say to dip the pieces in water, then apply. I cover the area with the plaster cloth with about 1/4" left over the edges, then, using a 3" paintbrush dipped in water, I brush from the center out. This tends to close the holes in the plaster cloth. I brush on a thin layer of casting plaster over this. This gives a solid surface for the rocks I mold to adhere to, plus adds some strength. I don't worry too much about the holes anyway, because most of the areas will be covered in ground foam.

From this:

To this:

To this:

To this:

I'll post more pictures when I get the plaster cloth and ground foam that's on order.

[HaroldA]

I too use plaster cloth and used to apply two layers over the cardboard base then would cover it with Sculptamold because that was what the 'experts' said to do.  But then my Scottish ancestry kicked in and wanting to save money, I decided to try only one layer.  I got the holes but they could easily be covered with Sculptamold or ground goop without any problem.  Granted the double layer of cloth as a based adds rigidity but then I am not going to be walking on it and its cosmetic anyway.

For rock ledges I do use plaster castings which eliminates the hole problem (no pun intended) and Sculptamold.