I used 2" x 4" 's because I had them. I used carriage bolts and wood screws. I lag bolted it to one wall, it's a solid beast. I also used 1/2" plywood and 1/2" foam. My intentions of the foam and plywood was to make it easier to install the tortoise machines because of depth. I was reading about thick foam and thin foam, basically using thin foam, you build up and thick foam you build down if that makes any sense, but it works for me. If we all built layouts exactly alike... how boring would that be. I could imagine Kalmbach Publishing putting out a book "Boring Layouts 2010".
Portability maters when you have to move the layout, that's why I built mine modular as it has moved many times in the last few years, you never know what will happen tomorrow. If you own you can say I will never move but if the right offer comes along, trust me you'll move.
This is my original benchwork:
It's made with a 1x4 outer frame and 1x3 cross-rafters. The legs are 2x3, supported and stabilized with 1/2-inch triangular plywood gussets. There are a couple of long 1x2 pieces mounted diagonally to give the whole thing angular rigidity, too. Pink foam goes on top. The whole thing is 5x12 feet.
I had a specific design goal here. The layout had to move around easily on wheels. It shares the family room with the family, and I needed to tuck it under a 45-degree roofline when not in use. So, a rigid, light structure was important. This framework has served well for over 4 years, and I'm now building Phase 2. The next part will be fixed, but I've kept the same basic design. With light construction and a foam base, I can't climb on my layout. But, I can walk all the way around, and pull this section out to get better access if necessary, so I don't need a jungle gym.
The front edge is a nice piece of 1x4, which is stained and polyurethaned for a nice finish. When I get around to adding fascia above it to cover the foam edges, this will give a finished look to the layout. Again, that's important in a family room, while it might not be in a basement.
I, like many of us, bought a copy of Linn Wescott's benchwork book before I bought any lumber. In the end, though, I decided that the effort of building L-girders simply wasn't justified, and I was better off with a simple box frame.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
thanks for the advise. my plan is for an around the wall layout with a solid top with 2" foam over plywood. could i make a simple square frame with supports using 1x4s instead of 2x4s and 1x4 legs
dstarr 1*4 L girders is cheaper, easier, and plenty strong enough.
I respectfully disagree. What's easier than to set two 2x4 beams then lay a 2x4 stringer across them & drive home a screw? Is fabricating L-girders and connecting 1x's on edge to each other really easier? And are the two 1x3's or whatever it takes to make a single L-girder really cheaper than a single 2x4? Cost-wise it's basically a wash.
I built my benchwork out of 2x4's because I had several on hand and was able to scavenge most of the rest from the trash pile of a nearby home under construction, so the price was certainly right.
It's stout as all get-out. I can climb on it and sit on it to reach any spot with no concerns (try THAT with your foam base!). Sure it's heavy, but for a home layout that's going to stay in the basement, who cares? Light weight and portability are overrated.
Jim
"I am lapidary but not eristic when I use big words." - William F. Buckley
I haven't been sleeping. I'm afraid I'll dream I'm in a coma and then wake up unconscious. -Stephen Wright
Another thing to consider is that stud-grade 2x4's can be very warped and twisted, which can make accuracy hard to achieve when you're building benchwork. This is a major problem for open-grid or L-girder style benchwork, with cookie-cutter plywood on risers. Make sure you get good quality 2x4's, which may mean spending more than you need to; good clear pine 1x2's would be adequate for most layouts.
I agree. Construction of model RR benchwork from 2 x 4 lumber is gross overkill. When was the last time you saw a truly straight 2 x 4 that stayed that way? It's hard enough to find straight 1 x lumber. However, if you have a source of free good quality 2 x 4 lumber, it's not going to hurt to use them.
Bob
I guess if you have a bunch of 2 x4s lying around and want to use them - go ahead. I wouldn't go out and buy 2 x4s to build a layout. Typically 1 x 4s are used and 1 x 3s even work well.
Chris
My S/O layout is made of 2"x4"s and 3/4" plywood. Heavy, sure, but it is strong.
So many scales, so many trains, so little time.....
2*4 works,but it is overkill. Model trains are not very heavy and benchwork based on 1*4 L girders is cheaper, easier, and plenty strong enough. In fact, plain old 1/2 inch plywood is strong enough for a 4*8 foot layout.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I have seen just about every way to build a layout except a simple 2"x4" constructed bench. I thought i would try something different this time but every thing else just seems to be more to do whith no benafit unless it is to be portable. please help