I'm getting ready to start a sectional layout, probably beginning with the yard as a cornerpiece. I have some Code 100 flex track and a lot of Peco Code 83 and I was wondering if it would cause operational problems?
The only operational problem you're likely to encounter is devising a way to keep the rails aligned if you don't use code 100 to code 83 transition rail joiners. The top of the rail between Peco code 83 turnouts and Atlas code 100 flex track lines up perfectly, but the rail foot is at a different level between the two. Atlas, and perhaps others, make transition rail joiners for connecting code 100 to code 83 products.
If you use those transition joiners, you have some work cut out for you. Most, if not all, of the involved rails' ends will have to have their foot flanges beveled with a small needle file so that the ends of those flimsy joiners will actually slide into place. But the big thing to consider is that if you lift the rail tops on the Code 83 turnouts to match the Code 100 rail head heights, and you should, it will almost certainly mean that you also need to slide cardstock or something else, maybe thin styrene if you are concerned about what gluing will do to the cardstock, under the Code 83 turnouts to support them. Those flimsy transition joiners won't.
Another option is to sand down the approaches to the Code 83 turnouts for the Code 100 track so that the Code 100 track is reduced in height by the time it meets the turnouts...you are creating a dipping shwallow ramp.
-Crandell
There will be no problems once you've got the rails all aligned properly. But, that may be easier said than done.
I have Peco code 100 turnouts and Atlas code 100 flex track. I've had problems where they meet. I have to shim the bases to get the rail heads to line up. I'm using curved turnouts (which is why I went with Peco here) and the approach tracks are curved, too. This puts sideways forces on the joint, which is in trouble to start with because of the height and rail shape mismatches. The result has been a joint which is difficult to align. After a good 6 to 8 months of having this in place and ballasted, I'm still playing with shims to get this right.
On the other hand, I've got a straight Peco turnout elsewhere with straight approach tracks, and I have no problems with that one at all.
One trick I found is to use sectional track, not flex, to actually mate with the Peco turnout. This eliminates the sideways forces that make it so hard to keep everything aligned.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
As long as the railheads are at the same level, the track is in gauge and there's no angular kink at the joint, the only possible operational problem will be the reluctance of some old rolling stock with deep flanges to roll on the code 83 rail.
I use Code 100 flex (and handlaid turnouts built with Code 100 rail) in the Netherworld, and code 83 flex (and handlaid Code 83 specialwork) where the sun is supposed to shine. I've connected the two rail sizes end-to-end with standard Code 100 joiners, with a sliver of styrene .017 thick under the Code 83 rail base. Some of the rail I've used was bought fortysomething years ago in Tokyo and doesn't match any commercial flex or turnouts I've ever encountered - I think it was some that Shinohara had rejected!
Every rail end, regardless of size or manufacturer, is de-burred, and I always file a tiny facet in the inside top of the railhead. If any special arranging is needed to allow rail joiners to slip on, I do it as I lay the track. Taking a little extra time to get things as right as possible will save time and aggravation later - I consider a derailment to be a reason to examine track and rolling stock for defects.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on track as bulletproof as I can make it)
In my book it isn't worth the trouble your going to have to go through. How many pieces of flex track are you talking about, if it's a high number like 20 pieces I would say it may be worth a shot but if your talking lets say 6 or 7 pieces bit the bullet and buy code 83 and save the 100 for some place else. One thing I learned recently that I was never aware of is that rail profile differs from manufacturer to manufacturer Yes the height is standard but if you look at the cross section under a magnifying glass which we did you will see a difference. We compared a piece of Micro Engineering Flex to a piece of Atlas then to a Walthers Shinohara and everyone had differences. Minor differences but different non the less. Hence the problems we encounter when using one company's rail joiners on another company's track or turnout. They fit but some times need gentile persuasion. That coupled with the height difference you have a task ahead of you no question you just have to ask yourself is it worth it.
Allegheny2-6-6-6 In my book it isn't worth the trouble your going to have to go through. How many pieces of flex track are you talking about, if it's a high number like 20 pieces I would say it may be worth a shot but if your talking lets say 6 or 7 pieces bit the bullet and buy code 83 and save the 100 for some place else. One thing I learned recently that I was never aware of is that rail profile differs from manufacturer to manufacturer Yes the height is standard but if you look at the cross section under a magnifying glass which we did you will see a difference. We compared a piece of Micro Engineering Flex to a piece of Atlas then to a Walthers Shinohara and everyone had differences. Minor differences but different non the less. Hence the problems we encounter when using one company's rail joiners on another company's track or turnout. They fit but some times need gentile persuasion. That coupled with the height difference you have a task ahead of you no question you just have to ask yourself is it worth it.
In my (not particularly) humble opinion, the answer is a resounding YES!
Of course, I consider building a puzzle palace of curved three way switches (all branches curved in the same direction) to be a good warmup for doing some serious trackwork.
As I said in my first post, as long as the railheads line up vertically, and the gauge sides of the railheads line up horizontally, the rails can be joined. As a last resort, solder a 25mm length of copper wire to the outsides of the rail webs and forget about trying to find the perfect rail joiner.
On my PITA 1-10 scale this is about a 1.2.
Chuck (Modeing Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex and hand-laid specialwork)
Thanks for all the input guys. Its a big help. Still not sure how I wanna run with it yet. Takin a little time to consider. I have a show im goin to in 2 weeks to pick up some more flex track. I have 5 or 6 pieces of code 100 flex track, Not sure if i wanna use that or if i wanna just go with code 83 and save it for later. Ive never used flex track yet(last layout was section track). So im goin kinda slow deciding. Any suggestions, sites, articles, I can read to brush up on flex track use. My brother gave me all the turnouts, theres alot of them and I dont want them to go to waste, thats why im throwin the question out there.
Thanks again all.
I was actually going through the turnouts and wyes that I have. Its a big mixture, Atlas #6 C100, Peco #4 and #6 I think. Shinohara 4s and 6s. I think those are the right numbers. They are not printed on the bottom. Its basically a mixture of 83 and 100. So now Im even more confused. Can different brands of track be used together or is it not a good idea. I put a few pieces together on a flat surface and can tell just how slightly the rails dont line up. Can shimming them and using transition joiners help that a bit.
Kevinohio I was actually going through the turnouts and wyes that I have. Its a big mixture, Atlas #6 C100, Peco #4 and #6 I think. Shinohara 4s and 6s. I think those are the right numbers. They are not printed on the bottom. Its basically a mixture of 83 and 100. So now Im even more confused. Can different brands of track be used together or is it not a good idea. I put a few pieces together on a flat surface and can tell just how slightly the rails dont line up. Can shimming them and using transition joiners help that a bit.
At the risk of sounding repetative, as long as the railheads can be made to line up horizontally and vertically, ANY track product manufactured to 16.5mm (HO, HOj,On30,Gn500...) can be used with any other - even ugly steel-rail sectional track made in China by disinterested coolies.
Shim material can be masking tape, cardstock, sheet styrene or even compressed cowpie, as long as it's the right thickness. I personally use latex caulk for an under-tie adhesive, even when the ties are wood and the rail is hand-laid. Other people have other preferences. As Mayor Pragma of Rome said in 1879, "If it works, it's good."
To verify the frog number of a manufactured turnout with straight rail coming off the frog, measure 1 unit across the rails that end at the frog point, then measure the distance from that spot to the frog point using the same units. Don't be too surprised if the numbers come up slightly odd - manufacturing turnouts to precise tolerances isn't a big priority among those who do it commercially.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on Atlas, Shinohara, Life-Like and ?? made in Italy flex track and hand-laid turnouts)