Hands down Walthers/Shinohara in my O/P are much better. Peco's are ok but if you look at the two side by side the W/S looks more prototypical. I run the gamet on my layout only becasue I am a cheap old fart who reuses old stuff. (They think this recycling stuff is something new..ha) becasue I refuse to just throw somethign out that still works. I think Micro Engineering turnouts blow both of the two out of the water but the problem is they only make #6 turnouts unless your into hand laying your own, I'll pass on that one with my fat fingers. Before you buy from Walthers do a product search on the internet it's almost a given that you can find what ever you want a lot cheaper.
cwhowell2 I've been told that Peco turnouts are the way to go but a quick check of the 2009 Walthers catalog lists a #8 at $43. I have used Walthers (Shinohara) in the past and was perfectly happy with them. A #8 is $20 MSRP. So are the Peco's twice as good? Thanks - Bill
I've been told that Peco turnouts are the way to go but a quick check of the 2009 Walthers catalog lists a #8 at $43. I have used Walthers (Shinohara) in the past and was perfectly happy with them. A #8 is $20 MSRP. So are the Peco's twice as good? Thanks - Bill
May I suggest Atlas code 83? If you have not looked at the Atlas code 83 line you should. Atlas turnouts are much improved over years past, cost way less than both those other brands, and I know many modelers and several clubs who use them with no problems and no modifications. No shiming frogs and guard rails, no soldering special jumpers, etc,etc.
The only thing I have ever had to do is file the top of a frog down now and then that sometimes sits a couple thousandths higher than the running rails.
They are DCC friendly out of the box, the metal frogs are isolated but easily powered. Avererage street price, even for a #8 - yes they make a #8, is $12-$14.
I even take them apart and use the points and frogs to hand lay custom stuff I need. And I have made very gentle curved turnouts from them by simply cutting the tie strip bridges under the rail and bending them.
Properly painted and weathered they look just as good as those expensive brands to me.
Sheldon
tom,
we probably have an apples and oranges thing here. my opinoin goes out the window when it comes to code 83 and any roadbed other than wood or cork. i have no experience in those areas. (too hardheaded to try)
i will tell you what i did to make the code 100 shinohara's dependable. first, use a mult-meter to find out exactly where the problem lies. a couple of wires and a light bulb will work too. burnish the contact surfaces of the points and stock rails with one of those little point burnishing tools. just hold the switch closed and work it back and forth. use a liberal application of contact enhancer. i get mine at radio shack in one of those little felt tip pen looking gadgets. be sure to wet the little brass tabs under the points too.
if the current is flowing ok to the points but still not to the frog, smack that little rivet in the pivot with a center punch while backing it up from below with a flat punch or nail. if the switch is already on the layout, then drill down through the rivet hole and install a 19 ga. flat head nail to hold it down tight (this only works if you have a firm substance under it. probably no good with foam.)
when installing caboose industries ground throws, forget mechanical fasteners like screws or nails. just center the switch points and the ground throw and then use a SMALL drop of super glue applied along each side of the base plate while holding it in position with a hobby knife or small screwdriver. don't get glue in the moving parts. a little labelle oil on the ground throw and throw bar and you are in business. this probably will not work with foam roadbed.
i have over 100 switches in service and over half of them are shinohara. i do not have and will not tolerate mechanical or electrical problems with trackwork. (brag-brag)
grizlump
grizlump:
Actually, for a short time I did have a problem with one of my Sinohara #8 Code 100 curved turnouts, but I was able to cure it with some shimming and adjusting. Hoever, once the code 83 ladder turnouts started to go, there didn't seem to be much that I could do with them, no matter what I tried--adjusting the ground throws (not an easy task when your base is foam and not board, BTW) cleaning the contact points. Those Walthers Code 83 turnouts are extremely touchy, IMO. The Code 100 seem to be MUCH sturdier.
Frankly, it could be that the roadbed I'm using (WS sheet roadbed) is a little too 'spongy' for them, and the fact that I'm continually running very heavy brass steamers over them.
The Peco Code 83 seems much sturdier at least in my situation. I've had no problems with them at all. And believe me, this is not to put the Walthers Sinohara down at all---I think they're pretty terrific. The ones on my mainline are pretty flawless. It's just that in my particular yard situation, the Peco seems to be better for what I need.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Walthers catalog prices are MSRP. Products are always cheaper from dealers, whether on-line or LHS.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Walthers prices for Peco products are way out of line. A cheaper source of Peco track products is Cherry Creek Hobbies in Torrington, Wyoming, at http://www.cchobbies.com
" However in the past several months, I've had to replace some of my Sinohara code 83 turnouts because of constantly recurring conductivity problems on the main yard 'ladder'. "
just to trade stories, did you determine exactly what was causing the continuity problems? i have encountered several things like that in shinohara code 100 and have been able to cure them all with a bit of work and good luck. what type of switch throw were you using?
I use code 100 for my mainline and code 83 for secondary and yard tracks. My mainline Code 100 turnouts are 95% Sinohara, and they've worked extremely well for the past 7 years. And all of my turnouts--mainline or yard--are manual, since they are easily accessable.
However in the past several months, I've had to replace some of my Sinohara code 83 turnouts because of constantly recurring conductivity problems on the main yard 'ladder'. I decided to replace them with Peco code 83--which frankly, seem a bit more 'sturdy', and am very pleased with the operation. The center spring offers positive electrical contact, and my yard operations are now very smooth. In fact, I find that I'm spending as much time in the yard as I am on the main, thanks mainly to the Peco. And their Code 83 turnouts are much closer to American prototype.
So, I suppose it's a matter of opinion. I wouldn't dream of changing out my Sinohara code 100 main turnouts, but for the 'ladder' track that is essential to my yard operations, I'm extremely happy with the code 83 Peco's.
i am using both products in code 100 and i find the peco's are often a little wide in the guard rail/running rail spacing that causes wheels to pick the frog point when shoving a cut through the switch. that is easily fixed with a .010 shim. the peco's are nice for walkaround operation in that they have the built in over center spring that holds the point in firm contact with the stock rails. for looks, they are not the greatest but that is not an issue for me since i am more into operating dependability than i am track appearance.
i have dozens of the shinohara switches that i bought before walthers got involved with them. they seem to be well made as far as physical operation goes but they have an occasional problem with electrical continuity. that is usually easily cured by tightening up the rivet that the point assembly pivots on. they also need to have the roadbed relieved slightly under some of the throw bars. i use caboose industries ground throws with them or a homemade hairpin spring.
there are other alternatives out there but i just work with what i have on hand. personally, and that means others might not agree, i never cared for the looks of atlas frogs and always thought the m e's were overated for their price.
the handlaying alternative is interesting but i don't want to take the time required to learn how to get it right.
in closing, remember i am an old school (retired) modeler who never made the jump to dcc or code 83.
before i go, did whoever told peco was the way to go also sell peco?
What evidence on this board do you have that says Peco turnouts are "the way to go?"