Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Tortoise switch machine throw length? max?

3921 views
4 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    May 2002
  • From: Andover, NJ
  • 11 posts
Tortoise switch machine throw length? max?
Posted by NinjaRob on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 11:19 AM

I am currently building an n scale layout using Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail system.  So far, so good, nice system!  However, it is now time to install switch machines and I want to use the Tortoise.  Using the WS system, base track (first level) is already 2 1/2" from the bottom of the layout and my second level is about 4"-4 1/2" mabey almost 5" up.  Can the tortoise utilize a throw this long?  Is this asking too much from this or any switch machine?

Using the WS system, I cannot get the machines up to the track, I always have to go from the bottom.

Also, any hints on installing these onto a foam base?  I was thinking of just screwing them to thin plywood and then gluing the plywood to the foam.  Good no?

Thanks for any info anyone can provide.

Rob Snyder

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 12:21 PM

 For a layout base that thick, I cut a hole in the foam large enough for the Tortoise to fit, and fasten the Tortoise directly to the bottom of the turnout.

You would probably have to drill a hole at least 1/2 to 3/4 inches wide at the bottom for the Tortoise to be able to throw the turnout through that much foam.

  • Member since
    May 2002
  • From: Andover, NJ
  • 11 posts
Posted by NinjaRob on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 12:40 PM

Thanks for the reply and information.  Unfortunately due to the WS design, mounting the switch machines directly under the turn-outs is not an option.

However, you think an enlarged hole at the bottom (tortoise end) will allow the throw to operate in that length?  that would be an easy fix, I can just enlarge the hole at the bottom end right?

Rob

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Maine
  • 188 posts
Posted by mainetrains on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 3:36 PM

On my HO layout I also use WS foam products and have found you can mount the tortoise's under the layout but you must use a thicker wire than provided with the tortoise. Longer too obviously. I used .45 piano wire and made the hole about twice the size you would normally. Works fine.

Hope this helps.

Dave Banged Head

'there's something happening here, what it is ain't exactly clear' Modeling the Hard Knox Valley Railroad in HO scale http://photos.hardknoxvalley.com/

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 5:07 PM

 Same reply as I posted in another thread. Thing outside the box. Just because the Tortoise instructiosn show it workign by moving the arm back and forth perpendicular to the throwbatr does not mean that's the only way they work. Take a look at the Remote Mount they sell. Just the actuating part, not the flexible cable. It's not too hard to make up somethign simialr to that - in fact it's a modified version of somethign that's been aroudn the hobby for a long time. For another view, look at the way they show mouting Switchmaster motors. Instead of the back and forth movement, you have a J shaped wire dropped down fromt he top, the short leg of the J hooks to the throwbar, the long leg goes down to underneath the table, where it gets a 90 degree bend in whatever direction is most convenient for mounting the Tortoise.Move that arm back and forth rotates the wire which moves the throwbar back and forth. No precision alignment while workign under the layout, and if the track is already installed you can add this without figureing out a way to aboid drillign a 1/2" hole under the throwbar withotu drillign through the throwbar. Just a small hole down from the top. For better wear in a softer material like foam, use a piece of brass tube with the wire runnign inside it. That will keep the wire from diggign through the foam and throwing the whole thing out of whack.

                           --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!