I saw them in the Micro-Mark catalog. There are 2 types listed - a keyhole saw and another with a wider back on it, or the Micro-Mark brand that looks like a #11 blade with a saw toothed edge, that fir a standard handle. Has anyone had any sucess with using any of these blades to cut Code 100 rail? I need to cut some switch points free in some double slip switches I have hand laid (and soldered in) so they can be hinged, as the points are too short to allow enough flex in the rail to throw easy enough for the Tortoise switch machine to move without stalling. The switches are already mounted on the layout, so I can't get my jeweler's saw or a razor saw or Dremel in there without destroying the surrounding rails, etc.
I once caught a train in my pajama's. How it got in my pajama's I'll never know... (sorry, Groucho)
If they're the same ones with which I'm familiar, they're intended for use only on wood or plastic. If you can't get your Dremel with a cut-off disc into the area, your only option may be to unsolder the necessary parts.
Wayne
Both of these blades are advertised as being able to cut soft metals. I have not used them myself though.
#11 Saw blade 30TPI
#11 saw blade 24TPI
So, has anyone actually used these blades to cut rail? 30 tpi seems kinda coarse for metal cutting. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas?
I have used the Xacto #13 blade, Micro-Mark #36106, for years for cutting aluminum and brass sheet, Zamac and Brass castings, track, and other soft metals. It fits the #1 handle best. I have found the #15 (Keyhole, MM36110) and #27(long blade, MM14366) are a bit too course for metal. The #15 also has a tendency to bend up easy on any thick or harder balsa and ply. I have also used the Micro-mark #14346, 40 TPI blades for cutting up Athearn diesel frames for kit bashes. The other two blades, 14348, 30 TPI, and 14348, 24 TPI, I use for ply, plastic, bass, balsa, and spruce.
Thanks! I'll get some of those # 13 blades and see how well they'll work.