Question, this is my first layout with flextrack and was wondering when modeling the turn on my layout, how do you set the track so the connection to the straight piece before the turn does not come undone everytime I make the turn?
It seems almost impossible to make the turn without a connection to the straight piece coming apart.
Any advice would be great!
Thanks,Joe
I draw the track centerline. Then I lay the flextrack and glue it with white glue. I use some weights until the glue is set.
Most curves are longer than one track. So I solder the second flex track to the first before I lay it down.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
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I solder the two together with both ends straight, then I curve the second piece (actually it's rare that I have a piece end exactly at the curve). I don't curve about the last 6 inches of that piece until I solder the next one on. Along the straight parts where both sides of the joint are straight, I leave some unsoldered for expansion.
Enjoy
Paul
On a curve, the inside rail becomes too long and so should be trimmed. Pre-bend the flex track and then line up the end to the track to be attached to, than trim off excess rail and ties. Then attach the two sections with rail joiners. You can solder the joints, but I've rarely found the need as far as laying the track. Just make sure to adjust the rails if the track gap exceeds 1/64 inches or so as you are laying the new section of track. (Soldering is good for assuring continuity of electrical current but occasional "floaters" are needed to allow for expansion and contraction if there are significant temperature differences in the layout room.) One rail slides more easily than the other. It is best to alternate which side has the "easy slider" so one doesn't end up with a long section of rail easily moved.
Mark
I would recommend soldering the flex track to the straight track before making the curve. This does two things. 1- prevents any expansion issues from happening where a wheel is likely to climb and 2- makes a smoother transition from straight to curve, eliminating a kink in the rail.
If possible, you might try starting the flex several inches into the straight run and "ease it" into the curve. Think of a highway exit vs a street corner. You cannot go around a street corner the same speed as you would get on/off a highway ramp. Now think if there was a speedbump (uneven track) or pothole (gap) in the middle of that curve. Alot of people do not have problems with a joiner connection at the curve, but many people do, and it's easy to eliminate it from being an issue from the start.
I do not recommend soldering any switch to Flextrack. Is it possible that you are joining code 83 to code 100 track sections. There are Transition joiners available. My LHS owner suggests using N scale joiners for code 83 HO track, since the fit is tighter. Do you cut the track with a track cutting "nipper". I tack down any curve temporarily, then mark with a scratch, and then cut and file smooth. Personally, I never solder track joints, since is too difficult to remove the solder on joiners. Since even "nickel-silver track" has plenty of resistance, I solder every length of Flextrack with feeders to the bus wire, and solder jumpers at switch joints and use insulated plastic joiners at switch joints,(in case it is necessary to isolate a reverse loop in the future). Bob Hahn
In addition to the good advice so far, I'd suggest staggering your joints so the two rails don't join the next section at the same spot. I stagger mine by eye, roughly by 2-3 inches. I do the same with roadbed, making sure the subroadbed, roadbed, and track joints don't align vertically. This helps strengthen the joints and minimize the chances that a disruption in one will affect the others.
Rick Krall
I lay the first piece of flex track around the curve, using whatever method (nails, glue, aculk, etc.) to affix the track to roadbed. However, I leave the last four inches or so unattached. This free section will stay straight. I then trim the long rail even with the short rail, attach the next piece of flex track with rail joiners, and solder both rails at the joiners. Then I continue laying the track and repeat this process at the next joint. You will end up with one continuously soldered length of track, so you will need to cut expansion gaps if you so desire. Jamie
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jbdbackfanQuestion, this is my first layout with flextrack and was wondering when modeling the turn on my layout, how do you set the track so the connection to the straight piece before the turn does not come undone everytime I make the turn?
If started as a straight track solder is not needed. I only solder flex track on a curve, this sort of qualifies for that.
I do not trim the inside rail. I slide it onto the next piece of flex track. That way as one goes around the curve the two joints get further and further away from each other making a really nice offset. Much less chance of kinks when the rails are not joined directly across from one another.
While not exactly what you have asked about, the picture below (which I've posted a zillion times) shows the "next" connection after the start. I don't have any pictures of the "start". Since I only use flex track my start would be some sort of commercial turnout.