CT has pointed out what others have been hinting at for a long time. You need to get your feet wet and draw a plan. You've been ready for a long time. Unlike what you've been taught in school that you have to work alone and get it right the first time, life isn't like that.
Do the best you can, post what you have, and we will help. Yes, it's going to take some guts to commit something to paper. But no matter what it will neither be wrong nor will it be so great as to compete with Don Mitchell.
It will be a learning experience.
I started my layout plans a year ago. I started with a plan I posted here got comments and revised. I am now on revision 19f, with 19 representing major revisions and F meaning the sixth minor revision. I'm waiting now to get the time and money to remodel my basement to get it ready for the layout and in that time, I've figured a way to make it better.
I'm not saying that you need to get it perfect. Everyone needs to stop planning and start building. But before you can start building, you have to get moving. Dude, you need to start your plan.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Train Lover --
I know, replying to my own post is kind of tacky, but I just had a dose of inspiration. Please don't be ashamed, and I'm not trying to be nosey, but is money the real issue here?
I'm not sure what kind of allowance or spending money you have, but do you get frustrated and run for cover anytime someone suggests spending $20 on a book of track plans? If that's the case, come out and say it (although there are freebie's out there).
You'll get more sympathy, and more help, than if it looks like you just don't want to do anything on your own. BTW, if you don't know, the images in the previous post are thumbnails. Click on them to view full size.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
how do you post images and the like?
and about the reach i said any size or shape as long as it fit in the 8x8' area
CTValleyRR wrote: Train Lover --I know, replying to my own post is kind of tacky, but I just had a dose of inspiration. Please don't be ashamed, and I'm not trying to be nosey, but is money the real issue here?I'm not sure what kind of allowance or spending money you have, but do you get frustrated and run for cover anytime someone suggests spending $20 on a book of track plans? If that's the case, come out and say it (although there are freebie's out there).You'll get more sympathy, and more help, than if it looks like you just don't want to do anything on your own. BTW, if you don't know, the images in the previous post are thumbnails. Click on them to view full size.
kinda about the no money thing i do have a budget but a very small one >$100 and that includes track, benchwork, rolling stock(only have 5 passenger cars 3 gondolas 1 cushion coil car and 1 caboose)(including engines(i only have 2))and any thing else i need. (i might get a freebie or 2 but im not holding my breath.) also for me unless im with my grandparents (which is only a few months of the year) my mom or stepdad will only take me to to the LHS once a month max so i really want to aviod spending money if there is any way i dont dave to
train lover12 wrote: how do you post images and the like?and about the reach i said any size or shape as long as it fit in the 8x8' area
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1309404/ShowPost.aspx
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
When you're writing a message, look at the icons across the top of the form. One of them looks like a tree and sky (right next to the smiley face). Click on that to post an image. The trick is that you generally have to have the picture you want somewhere else on the Internet, and what you actually post is a link to it. I have mine in a Photobucket account (www.photobucket.com). It's free for the basic service.
Now, here's the deal. In 2 1/2 hours this afternoon, I roughed out a track plan which fits the basic criteria you've posted so far, using only a pencil, graph paper, a ruler, and an HO scale template (at 1" = 1' scale). At my salary, that's about $125. Can you afford that?
Well, that's okay, because I'm a nice guy. I did it to prove how easy it is when you decide to actually do it. Not that anyone but you SHOULD be doing it.
A couple of issues:
1) I'm not sure what pieces are available in the EZ Track; I tried to use standard pieces. What I drew would work with Atlas Snap Track and flex track. With some minor tweaks, I'm sure you could make the EZ Track work. Fortunately, with EZ track, you can just lay it out on the floor and tweak it.
2) Your minimum curve radius is 18" -- you can't really go any bigger and stay in the space you have available. While most HO scale stuff will take an 18" curve, a lot of it (big steamers, six axle diesels, 80' passenger cars) doesn't look very good going around them. Oh well; that's the price you pay.
3) I took you at your word that a 2' extension was OK. It's actually 8x10. You could probably shorten one or both of the long sides without too much trouble.
4) I assumed you didn't want a duckunder or gopher hole (that is, a donut shaped layout).
5) I didn't spend any time trying to find models that would fit on the layout. I simply free-handed some ideas in. You'll have to figure that part of it out for yourself.
Here's the problem: our scanner only works with our laptop, which my wife is currently using for work. When she's done, I'll scan and post. In the meantime, go sketch your own version, and you can compare the two.
CTValleyRR wrote: train lover12 wrote: how do you post images and the like?and about the reach i said any size or shape as long as it fit in the 8x8' areaWhen you're writing a message, look at the icons across the top of the form. One of them looks like a tree and sky (right next to the smiley face). Click on that to post an image. The trick is that you generally have to have the picture you want somewhere else on the Internet, and what you actually post is a link to it. I have mine in a Photobucket account (www.photobucket.com). It's free for the basic service.Now, here's the deal. In 2 1/2 hours this afternoon, I roughed out a track plan which fits the basic criteria you've posted so far, using only a pencil, graph paper, a ruler, and an HO scale template (at 1" = 1' scale). At my salary, that's about $125. Can you afford that?Well, that's okay, because I'm a nice guy. I did it to prove how easy it is when you decide to actually do it. Not that anyone but you SHOULD be doing it.A couple of issues:1) I'm not sure what pieces are available in the EZ Track; I tried to use standard pieces. What I drew would work with Atlas Snap Track and flex track. With some minor tweaks, I'm sure you could make the EZ Track work. Fortunately, with EZ track, you can just lay it out on the floor and tweak it.2) Your minimum curve radius is 18" -- you can't really go any bigger and stay in the space you have available. While most HO scale stuff will take an 18" curve, a lot of it (big steamers, six axle diesels, 80' passenger cars) doesn't look very good going around them. Oh well; that's the price you pay.3) I took you at your word that a 2' extension was OK. It's actually 8x10. You could probably shorten one or both of the long sides without too much trouble.4) I assumed you didn't want a duckunder or gopher hole (that is, a donut shaped layout).5) I didn't spend any time trying to find models that would fit on the layout. I simply free-handed some ideas in. You'll have to figure that part of it out for yourself.Here's the problem: our scanner only works with our laptop, which my wife is currently using for work. When she's done, I'll scan and post. In the meantime, go sketch your own version, and you can compare the two.
actually im fine with gopher holes i would actually encourage them
i kinda like this traqckplan
this is cool to but both are smaller than i want
can you see the pics? i cant
train lover12 wrote: actually im fine with gopher holes i would actually encourage themi kinda like this traqckplan
Sorry, guy, your link didn't take.
The only reason you're OK with gopher holes is because you're young. Once you get to be my age, it's a real chore. I cringe every time I have to get under my layout to adjust something.
Use the PREVIEW button before you post. If your link didn't work, that will show you.
It looks like you have the http:\\ in there twice. Try editing your post and getting rid of one set of http's and see if that works.
See, now you're on the right, er, track! You don't want to duplicate another layout exactly, but it's good to see what you think is cool about them and try to incorporate something similar on your own layout.
I'd venture a guess that my layout doesn't have a single truly original idea on it, but everything there has been personalized to my taste and method of operations.
CTValleyRR wrote: train lover12 wrote: actually im fine with gopher holes i would actually encourage themi kinda like this traqckplanSorry, guy, your link didn't take.
He forgot the : after http (ie http:).
http://images.ask.com/fr?q=Model+Train+Layout+Design&desturi=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gatewaynmra.org%2Fproject10.htm&fm=i&ac=22&ftURI=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.ask.com%2Ffr%3Fq%3DModel%2BTrain%2BLayout%2BDesign%26desturi%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.gatewaynmra.org%252
NMRA Gateway Divisions (Greater St. Louis Area) project layout 2003 (Gateway Central X), by way of ask.com. A more direct link:
http://www.gatewaynmra.org/
Smile,Stein
train lover12 wrote: i kinda like this traqckplan
Okay, then draw it up so it fits your space and allow extra room to allow for the limitations of EZ Track.
SpaceMouse wrote: train lover12 wrote: i kinda like this traqckplanOkay, then draw it up so it fits your space and allow extra room to allow for the limitations of EZ Track.
how do you get something from paper to a post? i have no idea.
train lover12 wrote: SpaceMouse wrote: train lover12 wrote: i kinda like this traqckplanOkay, then draw it up so it fits your space and allow extra room to allow for the limitations of EZ Track. how do you get something from paper to a post? i have no idea.
A magical device known in some circles as a scanner. Or an All-in-One printer, which is what I use. Your school might have one that you can use; or places like Staples / Kinkos (for a small fee). Or maybe a friend.
Have you drawn yours yet? Go ahead and sketch something out, then worry about getting it scanned.
The biggest problem I see with these is the curved turnouts. EZ Track doesn't make them. But that's where YOUR imagination comes in.
CTValleyRR wrote: train lover12 wrote: SpaceMouse wrote: train lover12 wrote: i kinda like this traqckplanOkay, then draw it up so it fits your space and allow extra room to allow for the limitations of EZ Track. how do you get something from paper to a post? i have no idea.A magical device known in some circles as a scanner. Or an All-in-One printer, which is what I use. Your school might have one that you can use; or places like Staples / Kinkos (for a small fee). Or maybe a friend.Have you drawn yours yet? Go ahead and sketch something out, then worry about getting it scanned.The biggest problem I see with these is the curved turnouts. EZ Track doesn't make them. But that's where YOUR imagination comes in.
i have an all-in-one printer wat about after it gets scanned
OK, here you go. Now keep a couple of things in mind:
1) This is intended to be a quick sketch, not a detailed track plan. If you were going to build it, you would have to be a little more careful with the track alignment, turnouts, etc. than I was. Remember, I did it in about 2 1/2 hours. I also wasn't terribly concerned with doing more than meeting the 4-5 criteria you've thrown out here so far.
2) The purpose of this sketch is to get your own creative juices flowing, by showing you what is possible in a "continuous loop" if you think outside the box a bit.
3) And HERE'S the real clincher: if I were you, I would attempt something MUCH SIMPLER for my first layout. As I said in an earlier post, if you try something too hard, you will get frustrated and quit. Also, the benchwork alone for this baby would bust your budget.
Now get hot on your own sketch!
train lover12 wrote: CTValleyRR wrote: train lover12 wrote: SpaceMouse wrote: train lover12 wrote: i kinda like this traqckplanOkay, then draw it up so it fits your space and allow extra room to allow for the limitations of EZ Track. how do you get something from paper to a post? i have no idea.A magical device known in some circles as a scanner. Or an All-in-One printer, which is what I use. Your school might have one that you can use; or places like Staples / Kinkos (for a small fee). Or maybe a friend.Have you drawn yours yet? Go ahead and sketch something out, then worry about getting it scanned.The biggest problem I see with these is the curved turnouts. EZ Track doesn't make them. But that's where YOUR imagination comes in.i have an all-in-one printer wat about after it gets scanned
The scanner will create a picture file (called a jpeg -- pronounced Jay-Peg -- if you're using common software). You have to post this like any other picture.
CTValleyRR wrote: OK, here you go. Now keep a couple of things in mind:1) This is intended to be a quick sketch, not a detailed track plan. If you were going to build it, you would have to be a little more careful with the track alignment, turnouts, etc. than I was. Remember, I did it in about 2 1/2 hours. I also wasn't terribly concerned with doing more than meeting the 4-5 criteria you've thrown out here so far.2) The purpose of this sketch is to get your own creative juices flowing, by showing you what is possible in a "continuous loop" if you think outside the box a bit.3) And HERE'S the real clincher: if I were you, I would attempt something MUCH SIMPLER for my first layout. As I said in an earlier post, if you try something too hard, you will get frustrated and quit. Also, the benchwork alone for this baby would bust your budget.Now get hot on your own sketch!
nice thank you were do you get that template? wat are the wedge-looking things? wat size is it? it looks like exactly wat ive been looking for
You mean the turnouts (switches)? Thats the only thing I can think of that you're referring to with that picture.
And you can do this one of two ways; it looks like CT used the HO layout drawing template that you can get pretty much anywhere. Its like a big stencil. OR, you can just use a compass to draw the circles.
I find the Atlas RTS freeware (free software) the easiest to use. it wont let you do any special-sized turnouts, but you can easily come up with a workable starting plan to get yourself going.
Which wedge looking things? The ones on the track are turnouts (switches) -- I assumed you would use a #5, the one that appears to come with sets.
The ones by the logging camp are pine trees.
I got my template at the LHS for about $20, although that was a set with an HO scale and an N scale template.
This sketch is in a common scale: 1 inch on the drawing = 1 foot in real life. Not sure how big the scanned copy turned out, but if you look at the lines on the graph paper, every line is 3", so every 4 squares is a foot. That makes the layout about 64 square feet -- very ambitious for a beginner.
Whatever you end up with, try to preserve the industry daisy chain -- here you have a logging camp, a lumber mill, a furniture factory, a warehouse, and towns. Potentially 5 stops in a furniture industry. You could do something similar with aggregate / concrete / construction, grain / mill / bakery / restaurant, or even fish / cannery / supermarket. The potential is endless. Notice how I located some of the industries along the loop rather than in sidings, so as to give your trains something to do while they run around in circles.
You can save a lot of space by using flats (the fronts of buildings to suggest a depth on your layout that isn't there).
Give it some thought, and create your own space. Shorten the legs, widen the back shelf, whatever. Go check my earlier post -- you don't really need a template, especially to do a rough sketch like this. You can even use a glass for curves, if you have one about the right diameter. Have fun, and keep us posted on your progress.
DeadheadGreg wrote: You mean the turnouts (switches)? Thats the only thing I can think of that you're referring to with that picture.And you can do this one of two ways; it looks like CT used the HO layout drawing template that you can get pretty much anywhere. Its like a big stencil. OR, you can just use a compass to draw the circles. I find the Atlas RTS freeware (free software) the easiest to use. it wont let you do any special-sized turnouts, but you can easily come up with a workable starting plan to get yourself going.
yes the thinner turnouts they look like wedges to me wat # are they?
and wat are the track types you used. I tried doing it with RTS but it wouldnt come out right so wat is the turn radius wat types of switches are there wat are the straight track lengths and pretty much every thing
my budget has been raised to $200
my mom OKed the idea so now i need to plan the bench work any one know how to do this?
Yep! Just like my son. I already told you in a previous post what size turnouts they were -- #5. One of them (the one in the lower right leading to the servicing yard) is an Atlas-type snap track turnout, where the turnout combined with a 1/3 curve piece makes a "standard" 1/12 curve radius piece. NOT sure if such a piece (the turnout; I know they have 1/3 turns) is available in the Bachmann EZ Track -- like I said, that may be your first challenge. Far from insurmountable, though.
The rest of the track is composed of standard 1/12 circumference (or 30 degree arc) 18" diameter curves. That's a pretty standard size. EZ track has a couple of different sizes, though, so you'll have to check what yours are. Straights are 9", 6", and 3" pieces, with an odd 1-1/2" piece here and there. Sidings all have a 2" bumper piece at the end of them. I know Bachmann's long straights are 9". If they don't have shorter ones, that would be a bit of a pisser, but you could overcome that by changing the length of the straightaways.
The biggest problem with using Atlas's RTS program is that they only have pieces for THEIR track and models, which I'm pretty sure DOESN'T have a #5 turnout, so your sidings will be off if you use that software (which is why they give it away -- they're trying to sell track).
You also still need to find the actual buildings you'd like to use, get their dimensions, and make sure they fit. If not, you'll have to play with the track until they do.
You have MY idea -- personalize it and make it your own!
I'm glad to hear your mother seems to be warming to the project. A word of caution: I recall reading that a model railroad costs about $20 per square foot, not including structures and trains (in other words, for scenery, track, and benchwork). What you have there is about 66 square feet, or about $1320. You already have most of the track you need (I hope), so that's a significant part of the expense (although turnouts run about $20 a pop, and you need a lot of those) already behind you.
Here's what you need to do. You have a rough sketch -- YOUR JOB is to make it into a layout:
1) Create a DETAILED track plan, making sure you've got the pieces to fit where you need them. If not, make a shopping list, with prices (you can get those at www.Walthers.com or the manufacturer's website.
2) Poke around on the Walthers site looking for models. Stick to plastic ones, unless your modelling skills are pretty good. They're harder to screw up. Get the dimensions of the model and fit them onto your drawing. Redesign as necessary.
3) Lay your track plan out on the floor (or plywood -- better, but it costs about $15 for a 4x8 sheet). Sometimes you can trick yourself with a drawing and something you thought would work doesn't. Then make templates for your structures by cutting the shape out of paper. Make sure they fit where you intended, and have at least 1/2" of clearance to the track. Tape them down. If you're already using plywood at this point, you can then trace your layout onto the plywood with a Sharpie or a fat carpenter's pencil.
4) Once you KNOW your track plan works -- with no fudging (although that's hard to do with EZ track) -- THEN you're ready to build benchwork. Hopefully your stepdad has some basic power tools and is willing to help, because that's a bit of a project to solo at your age.
A final note: in your budgetary position, it's best to get a shopping list together of everything you need, and prioritize it so when you get some $$ you can proceed with the part that's most important to you. It also makes a good start for a Birthday or Christmas list.
Now GET OFF the Internet and start PLANNING. Even with all my posting yesterday, and part of the afternoon spent on that sketch, I managed to get about 4 quality hours in on my layout and still watch a movie with my wife (she demands about equal time for time spent with the trains ).
CTValleyRR wrote: Yep! Just like my son. I already told you in a previous post what size turnouts they were -- #5. One of them (the one in the lower right leading to the servicing yard) is an Atlas-type snap track turnout, where the turnout combined with a 1/3 curve piece makes a "standard" 1/12 curve radius piece. NOT sure if such a piece (the turnout; I know they have 1/3 turns) is available in the Bachmann EZ Track -- like I said, that may be your first challenge. Far from insurmountable, though.
could i use a standard remote switch instead? they are basically 9" straights with a 30 degree 18" radius branching off to one side
SpaceMouse wrote:Either use one of the free layout programs (yes it will take you time to learn, but it is not time wasted) or go to your LHS and get a HO template so that you get your turnouts sized and aligned properly, then draw it up, then scan it on your home scanner or take it to Kinkos and scan it there. Then load it like a normal picture.
wat is a good program to use?
http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm
train lover12 wrote: CTValleyRR wrote: Yep! Just like my son. I already told you in a previous post what size turnouts they were -- #5. One of them (the one in the lower right leading to the servicing yard) is an Atlas-type snap track turnout, where the turnout combined with a 1/3 curve piece makes a "standard" 1/12 curve radius piece. NOT sure if such a piece (the turnout; I know they have 1/3 turns) is available in the Bachmann EZ Track -- like I said, that may be your first challenge. Far from insurmountable, though. could i use a standard remote switch instead? they are basically 9" straights with a 30 degree 18" radius branching off to one side
As I've repeatedly said, it's only a rough plan. Change it to suit your taste or available pieces.
The geometry will change a little, but they'll work fine. Throw 'em in; you might like it better. You can use a 1/3 curve facing the opposite direction from the turnout to create parallel tracks.
The point I think you're missing is that my plan has NOT passed the operational test yet. That's on you to make sure it works.
CTValleyRR wrote: train lover12 wrote: CTValleyRR wrote: Yep! Just like my son. I already told you in a previous post what size turnouts they were -- #5. One of them (the one in the lower right leading to the servicing yard) is an Atlas-type snap track turnout, where the turnout combined with a 1/3 curve piece makes a "standard" 1/12 curve radius piece. NOT sure if such a piece (the turnout; I know they have 1/3 turns) is available in the Bachmann EZ Track -- like I said, that may be your first challenge. Far from insurmountable, though. could i use a standard remote switch instead? they are basically 9" straights with a 30 degree 18" radius branching off to one sideAs I've repeatedly said, it's only a rough plan. Change it to suit your taste or available pieces.The geometry will change a little, but they'll work fine. Throw 'em in; you might like it better. You can use a 1/3 curve facing the opposite direction from the turnout to create parallel tracks.The point I think you're missing is that my plan has NOT passed the operational test yet. That's on you to make sure it works.
i laid out the track i have and it works as far as i can see i will need some more track first though i think ill probably be able to get it the day after tomorow (tuesday) so after i get all the track and finalize the plan wat do i do next? is it time to start planning my benchwork?
CTValleyRR wrote: Whatever you end up with, try to preserve the industry daisy chain -- here you have a logging camp, a lumber mill, a furniture factory, a warehouse, and towns. Potentially 5 stops in a furniture industry. You could do something similar with aggregate / concrete / construction, grain / mill / bakery / restaurant, or even fish / cannery / supermarket. The potential is endless. Notice how I located some of the industries along the loop rather than in sidings, so as to give your trains something to do while they run around in circles.
for an industry chain how about mine/refinery/factory/jewlery store
do you think that would work? if so do i have all the names & order right?
Replying to both posts at once, I respectfully submit that, if you haven't successfully connected ALL the track pieces, there may still be a gremlin hiding in there somewhere. Typically my first tries come up about an inch off somewhere, and then I spend three hours fiddling to get it right. Are you working on the floor, or on plywood right now?
I just threw in the furniture industry because you mentioned logging, and it was the first thing I thought of that needed wood. Your jewelry industry example is fine too, although aprototypical (that's a fancy word which means, "not like real life"). Real jewelry-making is on too small a scale to need a railroad. No one could afford to buy a boxcar full of diamonds or gold. BUT DON'T LET THAT STOP YOU IF THAT'S WHAT YOU WANT TO DO. It's YOUR railroad; make up a reason that sounds possible. I mean, you could do farm / manure / fertilizer factory / farm if you wanted to, or city / garbage dump / landfill (don't snort, they DO have garbage trains running out of Seattle) if you want to add a little sick humor.
Let me give you an example: I model the Connecticut [River] Valley Railroad (as if you couldn't guess). In real life, it was founded in 1881, acquired by the New Haven Railroad in 1889, and never saw more than 2-3 trains a week because Hartford never developed into a major metropolis, and the big train action stuck to the big cities on the shoreline. On MY layout, however, the Hurricane of 1952 (a real event) left the shoreline tracks and wetlands so damaged that the New Haven never restored them, instead routing traffic up the Valley RR to Middletown and Hartford and then back to New Haven. So I tweaked reality so that I could model familiar scenes close to my house, because it's what I wanted to do.
All I'm saying is don't put unrelated industries: a coal mine, a logging camp, and a farm, for instance, on your layout, because then your trains have nothing realistic to do. It's more fun when they can pick stuff up and drop it off. I'm not saying you have to go all realistic with your operations -- I sure don't (I only have one passenger station; trains transporting passengers take a few laps and return to the same station on the other side of the platform -- and watch a bunch of people flame me for that notion!). It's not necessarily about realism, it's about entertainment. If you find realism entertaining, go for it. If not, don't let anyone tell you how to do it.