TheK4Kid wrote: rxanand wrote:One of the best ways to get flex track straight is to use a laser level. This photo shows how my friend Dale Schultz uses a laser to align flex tracks. http://layout.fotopic.net/p2972086.html These gadgets are pretty cheap at Home Depot. Tried the web link, came up empty handed, Google says it doesn't existTried Yahoo, same thing
rxanand wrote:One of the best ways to get flex track straight is to use a laser level. This photo shows how my friend Dale Schultz uses a laser to align flex tracks. http://layout.fotopic.net/p2972086.html These gadgets are pretty cheap at Home Depot.
One of the best ways to get flex track straight is to use a laser level. This photo shows how my friend Dale Schultz uses a laser to align flex tracks.
http://layout.fotopic.net/p2972086.html
These gadgets are pretty cheap at Home Depot.
Tried the web link, came up empty handed, Google says it doesn't exist
Tried Yahoo, same thing
I just click and drag along the web link to high-light it. Then go to the Edit drop down menu at the top of the page and click on COPY. Then click on the web address line so that your cursor is at the end of the address that is currently shown. Go back to the Edit drop down menu again and click on PASTE. Then hit enter. It works every time for me, even on this address. Great idea, by the way.
It probably took you much longer to read how to do it than it takes to do it.
Blue Flamer.
I've been using Medina1128's method which works pretty good but I'm sure going to try TheK4Kid's laser level idea next time. The last time I used my laser level was to mount the brackets for the around the wall portion of the layout.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Slowly building a layout since 2007!
Walthers is taking order for your loco, the former Life Like Heritage Series Proto 2000. See the link below. I would look around though. You are sure to find it more cheaply at internethobbies, for sure at trainworld, maybe caboose hobbies, modeltrainstuff, the list goes on.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?quick=2-8-4+Berhsire
Edit- http://www.internethobbies.com/920-31675.html to see an example of a substantially better offer. No. 765 is coming, according to Walthers, but you can likely advance reserve at most of these places for a price closer to that at internethobbies.
selector wrote:Sounds like a good method that I could have used. But, like Jason-Train, and in a backwater sub yard like mine, a little wiggly and wobbly adds something to the setting to my eye.I would agree that for modern roads with heavy steel and fast heavy trains, the rails should be straight and superelevation would look good if not overdone.
Sounds like a good method that I could have used. But, like Jason-Train, and in a backwater sub yard like mine, a little wiggly and wobbly adds something to the setting to my eye.
I would agree that for modern roads with heavy steel and fast heavy trains, the rails should be straight and superelevation would look good if not overdone.
You mentioned super elevation.
So far I have done the outside line on my layout ( 34 inch radius -HO), and used 1/8 inch wide by 1/16 inch thick shim cut from a sheet of 1/16 by 4inch by 48 inch balsa with a balsa stripper.
I then placed the balsa strip under the outer edge of my ties lifting them 1/16 inch, and thebalsa strip bends easily around the radius. I then used Elmers white glue to hold the balsa shim strip in place, pinning it into place until the glue set.
Then layed down grey latex caulk and placed my track into it.
I used the method shown by Joe Fugate in one of his downloadable videos in pdf form from MRR magazine.
Joe recommended grey latex caulk since it mtaches my ballast like his does.
I then ran my BLI J1 around both curves slowly and checked for any problems.
The J1 test run went fine on both curves, no derailments.
I am planning one additional main line all the way around tables.
My tables are 6 ft by 8 ft with two inch thick pink foam supported by 1x3 inch framework on 16 inch centers, and a 1x4 outer frame.
Table height is 45 inches from the floor.
I can easily reach to the center, as I am 6 foot tall.
The 6 foot width gave me the opportunity to have decent radius curves at both ends, and plenty of space for other things I'd like to have.
Next big project will be instaalling my Walthers 130 foot turntable, and it's roundhouse and engine service facility for steamers.
Right now, laying track is priority number one!
My entire layout will be of PRR theme, freelanced, with the possibility of an NKP line somewheree in the mix, since NKP crossed the PRR at Ft Wayne Indiana , near where I live.
I'm waiting until someone comes out with an HO NKP "765" steamer with DCC and sound.
Not far from where I live is the engine house the real NKP "765" is kept in.
Their website is www.765.org
My tables are supported by 2x4 legs which are bolted on, with adjustable screw pads on the bottoms to keep entire layout level, and all 3 tables matched up.
If I ever want to move it, off come the legs, take all the loose items off the tables, tilt them up on edge, and two guys can easily lift and move the tables.
Sturdy, yet lightweight, and easily transportable.
My layout is 6 feet wide by 24 feet long with matching curves on both ends. It is totally a walk-around layout, and I will use a center backdrop divider at least two feet high some hills built into it, so in one scene, the track will traverse a reversing loop, coming back around into another scene.
I plan on using two short tunnels to help accomplish this.
I have a lot of FUN WORK ahead of me!
TheK4Kid
Working on the Pennsy
That would certainly work fine--when I start laying my flextrack (? knows when that's ever going to be) I've actually planned on using the Ribbonrail guages--they make two straight ones, one long and the other shorter (don't remember the exact dimensions) and they have curved guages from 15 to 48 inches as I recall. Your carpenters square will work well too--the idea of having the straight or curved guage between the rails just has made sense to me. Of course the guages are going to add cost if you already have the carpenter's square. "eyeballing" the straight sections seems to work fine also--our tracklayers at my club usually do it that way and any derailment problems we have certainly aren't related to this issue. I guess I still prefer to have the tracks as straight as possible, though, just my preference.
Jim
Bill
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig"
Recently I was at a train show and looked at several Ho layouts and those built from modules.
I noticed in the straightaways that the tracks were not real straight on some modules.
So as I am laying flex track on my new layout ( I have some long straightways) I am using a large builders square, lining the track up on both side of the rails ,placing it on the outside of the rails, lightly rresting on the ties, and slowlly working the rails up against it as I glue them down with latex caulk.
Gives me arrow straight rails!
Anyone ever tried this before?
I have several shorter pieces of aluminum straight stiock I can use for shorter straightaway sections of track.