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Woodland Scenics inclines question

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  • Member since
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  • From: Alexandria KY
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Woodland Scenics inclines question
Posted by Zandoz on Monday, August 13, 2007 11:40 AM

Is there a difference in slope/contour between the standard inclines and the starter inclines of the same overall percent grade?  For some reason I've got it stuck in my head that possibly the starter sets would have a gradually increasing grade percentage, to ease the transition to the ultimate grade percentage. Right?  Wrong?

 

Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.

Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.

"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."

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Posted by cacole on Monday, August 13, 2007 5:53 PM

I've never seen or used the starter set you speak of, but their standard inclines go from zero to 2, 3, or 4 percent incline instantly at both ends with no transition and I don't think the starter set would be anything different.

 

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Posted by selector on Monday, August 13, 2007 7:38 PM
I declined to answer earlier because I have not even heard of the starter set.  Surely, though, the good folks at WS would have a description and purpose for this item stated on their website?  For sure, what Chuck says about the grade risers is true...and in our hobby, not just instant incline, but instant headache.  You will most certainly have to have a transition, even if it is five short inches of vertical cuvature.
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Posted by canazar on Monday, August 13, 2007 11:08 PM

For what is worth, I used the 2% incline set.  I started right off the base foam with no transtion, I didnt know any better.   But, knock on wood, I have never had a problem in the 2.5 years that section has been in use.  And it has seen everything from 34 hopprs to 85 passenger cars, GP 9's to Big Boy's.

The incline is on the left, right off the switch.

Best Regards, Big John

Kiva Valley Railway- Freelanced road in central Arizona.  Visit the link to see my MR forum thread on The Building of the Whitton Branch on the  Kiva Valley Railway

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Posted by wjstix on Tuesday, August 14, 2007 8:50 AM

The "starter set" of inclines is a box of just the first stage - from 0" to 1/2" elevation. They're handy if you're putting in some elevations here and there, like a grade increase for a coaling tower or to create a few short up and down grades etc. You can use them to make a longer grade by starting on the level up to 1/2", then put a 1/2" riser under the next starter riser, then 1" riser under the next one etc. It's all demonstrated on the WS website, video and books.

Anyway...they're a straight grade like 2 pct. all the way through, without a transition as best I can tell from the ones I've used.

Stix
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Posted by Zandoz on Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:16 PM
Thanks!   I looked on their website and at least to me it was not clear that they were just shorter versions of the standard inclines.  The "starter" designation to me had more implication than just shorter pieces of the same thing <shrug>. 

Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.

Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.

"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:23 PM

Go to the Woodland Scenics website, then clickn on Information, then Instructions, then find "Inclines" link under the SubTerrain section.  The 2-page PDF gives you a better overview of the system than the product description section.

Actually, here's the direct link to the PDF:

http://www.woodlandscenics.com/images/InclineInst.pdf 

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 14, 2007 7:57 PM

Make sure you don't put a rail joint at the start of the incline and you will probably be ok. You can also use some cardboard shims to make it more gradual.

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Posted by jkroft on Wednesday, August 15, 2007 7:22 PM
I use WS 3% and have had no problems with transition.  Be careful though, I've come to find that even 3% is too much at times, especially without a consist.  I wouldn't use greater than 2% unless you plan on running short trains.

"You show me a man with both feet on the ground and I'll show you a man who can't get his pants on." -anonymous

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Posted by Zandoz on Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:21 PM
I have planned on the 2% inclines since I am not trying to get the track elevated enough to cross over another track...just enough for overpassing a road.  It is going to be a small layout, so trains will likely also be small.

Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.

Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.

"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:36 PM
I am N scale and have up to 4% grades. I have to consist if over 4 or 5 cars long. I have 4 engines that can pull a 40 car train. Good enough for me. But it is a bit steep. Well, it is fun to watch those engines try and pull those grades. 3% curved is equal to 4% straight. Would like to have kept it 2%, but what can I do, I NEED to get over those MOUNTAINS!!!
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Posted by wjstix on Friday, August 17, 2007 7:59 AM

 Zandoz wrote:
Thanks!   I looked on their website and at least to me it was not clear that they were just shorter versions of the standard inclines.  The "starter" designation to me had more implication than just shorter pieces of the same thing <shrug>. 

No they aren't shorter!! All WS inclines are 2' long. If you buy a box of the full incline set (0" to 4"), you get (for the 2% grade for example) a piece that goes from 0" to 1/2" in two feet, then a piece that goes from 1/2" to 1" in two feet, then from 1" to 1-1/2" in two feet etc. until you get up to 4" in elevation. If you buy a box of the "starter" inclines, you get I think 8 of the first stage of incline, the 0" to 1/2" rise in two feet ones.

So let's say you want your mainline to raise up to 1", then run level at 1" for several feet, then drop back down again to 0". You would start with one 0" to 1/2" incline, then put another 0" to 1/2" incline on top of a 2' section of WS 1/2" riser, then after that run the track on the level along the top of as many pieces of 1" high risers as you need. Then you'd do the opposite at the other end of the elevated section to bring it back down to zero.

If you couldn't buy the "starter" inclines separately, you'd have to go buy two complete 0" to 4" inclines sets, use the first two inclines from each set, and throw the rest away!!Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

Stix
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Posted by CSX Robert on Friday, August 17, 2007 10:42 AM
 wjstix wrote:


 Zandoz wrote:
Thanks! I looked on their website and at least to me it was not clear that they were just shorter versions of the standard inclines. The "starter" designation to me had more implication than just shorter pieces of the same thing <shrug>.


No they aren't shorter!! ...


I think he meant shorter in heighth, not shorter in length.
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Posted by Zandoz on Friday, August 17, 2007 12:36 PM
Ahhhh...an important bit of info there...Thanks!  Your example happens to be near on what I want to accomplish.  It sounds like I'll need a starter set and at least a set of 1/2" risers...bridges will make up the 1" elevated level run.

Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.

Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.

"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."

  • Member since
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  • From: Alexandria KY
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Posted by Zandoz on Friday, August 17, 2007 12:42 PM
That is what I had originally meant, but I was under the mistaken impression that the regular incline sets were one piece all the way to their ultimate height, and that there were multiple of those full height inclines per package.

Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.

Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.

"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."

  • Member since
    January 2006
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Posted by Mailman56701 on Saturday, August 18, 2007 9:59 PM
 wjstix wrote:

 Zandoz wrote:
Thanks!   I looked on their website and at least to me it was not clear that they were just shorter versions of the standard inclines.  The "starter" designation to me had more implication than just shorter pieces of the same thing <shrug>. 

No they aren't shorter!! All WS inclines are 2' long. If you buy a box of the full incline set (0" to 4"), you get (for the 2% grade for example) a piece that goes from 0" to 1/2" in two feet, then a piece that goes from 1/2" to 1" in two feet, then from 1" to 1-1/2" in two feet etc. until you get up to 4" in elevation. If you buy a box of the "starter" inclines, you get I think 8 of the first stage of incline, the 0" to 1/2" rise in two feet ones.

So let's say you want your mainline to raise up to 1", then run level at 1" for several feet, then drop back down again to 0". You would start with one 0" to 1/2" incline, then put another 0" to 1/2" incline on top of a 2' section of WS 1/2" riser, then after that run the track on the level along the top of as many pieces of 1" high risers as you need. Then you'd do the opposite at the other end of the elevated section to bring it back down to zero.

If you couldn't buy the "starter" inclines separately, you'd have to go buy two complete 0" to 4" inclines sets, use the first two inclines from each set, and throw the rest away!!Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

  Could be mistaken, but I believe the smallest riser height available is 2 ", not 1".

"Realism is overrated"
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Posted by Bill54 on Monday, August 20, 2007 10:34 AM

Woodland Scenics "Risers" come in 1/2", 3/4" 1", 2" and 4" heights.  All are 2 1/2" wide and 24" long.

Inclines come in "Incline Sets" or "Incline Starters".  They are all 2 1/2" wide.

The Incline Sets come in 2%, 3% or 4% grades and are complete.  All you need to go from 0" to a 4" incline.  2% is 16' long, 3% is 12' long and 4% is 8' long.

Incline Starters come (8) identical pieces to a pack.  2% has (8) 0"-1/2" identical pieces 24" long, 3% has (8) identical 0"-3/4" pieces 24" long, and 4% has (8) identical 0"-1" pieces 24" long. 

Hope this helps.

Bill

As my Mom always says...Where there's a will there's a way!
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Posted by onebiglizard on Monday, August 20, 2007 2:01 PM

I've been using W.S. 2degree "starter" inclines for several years.  To save money I never bought the W.S. risers.  1/2" pink or blue foam board is a fraction of the cost, and easy to cut.  The compromise is that foam board height varies somewhat.  My experience is it tends to be slightly thicker than 1/2", so I use my auto body rasp tool (a shur-form, or something like that, designed to mold auto body putty- < $5 at Wal Mart) to continue the grade an inch or so into the foam board - usually about an inch beyond where the riser butts up to it.  Go slow and use a straight edge to get a consistent rise. 

If you're doing a small 4x8 then maybe the WS risers may be worth it.  If you're planning a larger area, the low cost foam board can be used for many other scenic purposes.  If your space and budget permit, get a sheet of 1/2" and a sheet of 1" thick board.  Then use the 1" board for the second riser (the rise from 1/2" to 1" vertical height).  Each joint between foam boards adds a little more height, which means more rasping to get the consistent grade you need. 

Use Liquid Nails for Projects to join foam boards and your risers.  < $3.00 at any home supply store.

Enjoy,

 Bill Field

 Mopac and Frisco in St.L.

   

 

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