Benchwork for 4x6' layout 1x3's or 1x4's ?

[cruikshank]

I'm building a small 4x6 HO layout Thomas for a kid.  I'm trying to keep it light, but strong enough.  Trying to do it on the cheap I bought Culled lumber 2x4 x 1/4" ply to make the 4x6' top.  That will be covered with 1" Foam.  The frame will have the outside frame of 4x6' and (2) cross braces at the joint 4' across.  At first I picked up 1x4" pine the straightes least knots I could find.  Again I got some as culled or miscut lumber at only $1 each.  Then after I bought that I found some nice 1x3".  Question should I go with the 1x3 for portability and weight or use the 1x4"  or doesn't it really matter.  Thanks  Dave

 

BTW  my layout is a shelf layout in "N" 2' wide so I built that for lightweight with 1x3" s.  4x6 is huge in my world :)

[twcenterprises]

I'd go ahead and use the 1x4 for the outer portion of the frame, use the 1x3 for the inner and middle pieces.  Gives it just a bit of extra strength.

Brad

[Jetrock]

Actually 1x2 will also work fine. Use 1-1/2" drywall screws and build a box around the edge of the 4x6 plywood, plus one or two lengths in the middle for a touch of added strength. Use a lot of "Liquid Nails for Projects" to bond the Styrofoam to the plywood--heck, the Styrofoam/plywood is probably plenty strong, and adding wood just provides a bit of stiffness and some elevation so your under-layout wiring doesn't rub against the tabletop. Using 1x3 will certainly be fine if you already have it, the extra strength isn't really necessary though. Many model railroaders build benchwork like they're building a house.

[selector]

Actually 1x2 will also work fine. Use 1-1/2" drywall screws and build a box around the edge of the 4x6 plywood, plus one or two lengths in the middle for a touch of added strength. Use a lot of "Liquid Nails for Projects" to bond the Styrofoam to the plywood--heck, the Styrofoam/plywood is probably plenty strong, and adding wood just provides a bit of stiffness and some elevation so your under-layout wiring doesn't rub against the tabletop. Using 1x3 will certainly be fine if you already have it, the extra strength isn't really necessary though. Many model railroaders build benchwork like they're building a house.

Agreed.  No need to build a beefy work bench.  Just do a clean job of cutting and mating surfaces, and use wood glue plus a few strategically placed screws.  Between your decking and the 1X3 (I suppose 1X2 would be okay, although it wouldn't leave you with much usable framing for wires and attaching legs below the deck IMO), and building strong legs or brackets to the walls, you should have a sturdy bench.

[cruikshank]

Thanks, since I already have the 1x3's here, I will go that way.  Great idea on making the box on the outside of the ply and not just mounting it on top.  Dave

[Jetrock]

Actually, now that I think about it the box should probably be under the ply rather than around the perimeter. However, if you wanted, you could use some thin veneer wood (like strips of 1/4" Masonite) to make an external box around the plywood to cover the edges of the layout.

[TheK4Kid]

Here's how I built my first table, will build two more just like this one.
I used 1x4's for the outside, 1x3's for the cross pieces, drywall screwed together and with glue alsoI bought at Menards.
I think it's called Sure Grip or something like that, good stuff( will hold a brick in place!!), about 8 dollars a tube.
I used 2x4's for legs, and diagonal braces, overkill maybe but it's strong and very stable.
Put leveling screws on the bottom of each leg.
Table width is 6 feet by 8 feet long, cut a second 4x8 sheet of 2 inch foam and layed it in next to the 4x8 sheet of foam.
Drilled holes in cross pieces to run wiring through.
Last picture , I posed some of my steam engines on top of the table just to celebrate finally getting first table done.
Added a few buildings to "spruce up" the picture.
Didnd't add any roadbed, just , just set some flex track on the table, and set the engines and cars on them.
Engine on the left is a 4-8-2 IHC Heavy Mountain, engine on the left is BLI  J1 with DCC and sound.
Engine in the lower right hand corner is another IHC Heavy Mountain.
Last picture is of one of my P2K 2-8-8-2's ( have two of them, both PRR livery), also a BLI M1a, and a BLI T1 Duplex both with DCC and sound.
I have another BLI M1b and another T1 Duplex, all in PRR livery.

I have a long ways to go yet, but I'm underway!
Table heighth is 45 inches from the floor to the tabletop.
Works out good for me as I'm 6 foot tall.

Working on the Pennsy!
TheK4Kid