Hi Everyone!
it's been a long ctime since I've been on this forum. I've been busy with work, travel and building my small HO scale layout. And, in building this layout, I have a stream, and intend to use Woodland Scenics' Realistic Water. The stream runs to the edge of the layout. The stream is carved into pink foam insulation board. I have a "test piece" in which I sculpted a stream, using the same material. My problem is, I need to know how I can dam the Realistic Water up at the edge so that it doesn't run off. I tried using painters tape but it leaked. What can I use to dam this "water" up until it dries hard so I can finish the project?
I use Envirotex Lite for my water. At the edge of the layout, I cut a piece of thin styrene a bit bigger than the opening and fasten it with latex glue. I let that set thoroughly and then I can pour the epoxy, using several thin layers.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
This can get messy fast (don't ask how I know, lol). I would consider a piece of wood secured to the edge of the waterbody and sealed up with tape. Realistic Water (and similar) have a way of finding the smallest holes to seep through (again, don't ask how I know!).
MisterBeasley I use Envirotex Lite for my water. At the edge of the layout, I cut a piece of thin styrene a bit bigger than the opening and fasten it with latex glue. I let that set thoroughly and then I can pour the epoxy, using several thin layers.
Alton Junction
I generally tint each layer of Envirotex individually, going from dark at the bottom to clear at the top. The finished product gets darker as it gets deeper, like real water. This takes only a couple of drops of cheap acrylic craft paint per pour.
I have numerous streams/ rivers that end at the facia. I used Envirotex Lite. Dam with a piece of tape and clamp a 1x piece of wood to that. I've never had a leak. Knock on wood!!
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
kasskaboose This can get messy fast (don't ask how I know, lol). I would consider a piece of wood secured to the edge of the waterbody and sealed up with tape. Realistic Water (and similar) have a way of finding the smallest holes to seep through (again, don't ask how I know!).
I use the pizza box method. I put a pizza box beneath the edge of the layout to catch any spills.
MisterBeasley kasskaboose This can get messy fast (don't ask how I know, lol). I would consider a piece of wood secured to the edge of the waterbody and sealed up with tape. Realistic Water (and similar) have a way of finding the smallest holes to seep through (again, don't ask how I know!). I use the pizza box method. I put a pizza box beneath the edge of the layout to catch any spills.
I'll stress upfront that I haven't tried it, but I know some folks have put a layer of caulk along the edge of the water area. The caulk dries clear, and is pliable enough you can cut it down with a sharp hobby knife if the pour ends ends up being lower than the caulk layer.
I need to try either the pizza box or use a layer of chalk.
wjstix I'll stress upfront that I haven't tried it, but I know some folks have put a layer of caulk along the edge of the water area. The caulk dries clear, and is pliable enough you can cut it down with a sharp hobby knife if the pour ends ends up being lower than the caulk layer.
Agree. I use the Magic Water product (and like it) but it is very liquidity and needs to be dammed up or it will all run out -- so just catching the drips in a box or bucket would not do. I used an adhesive caulk product that comes out white but dries clear. The dam itself was a piece of styrene so when the Magic Water finally set, I had a very flat and clear end to the water and as noted you can scrape away the caulk itself if you want to. I might add that I also "scenicked" the river bed with seaweek, rocks, sunken logs and a few tiny bits of aluminum foil to look like a small school of fish.
Dave Nelson
Daming up makes sense for Envirotex also. It's a two-part product with a hardener and resin you mix. I found puring it from the back to front also prevents it from getting on the floors. The stuff spreads out shockingly far.