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Form release agent

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  • Member since
    January 2019
  • 158 posts
Form release agent
Posted by wolfman hal on Thursday, March 21, 2024 6:46 AM

I am building a long snow shed. I created a form on a wooden board so I can duplicate a bunch of supports. 

My question is

What can I use as a form release to make sure the wood pieces don't stick to the wooden form if the is a little extra glue?

I was thinking of using my CRC 2-26 Cleaner which contains a little bit of oil.

Harold

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Thursday, March 21, 2024 9:50 AM

Hi Harold,

Not having seen your form, I wonder if wax paper would work? I remember using it overtop of balsa plane plans so the parts didn't get glued down.

Cheers!!

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • 158 posts
Posted by wolfman hal on Thursday, March 21, 2024 12:08 PM

Tried that. Did not work.

Harold

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Central Vermont
  • 4,565 posts
Posted by cowman on Thursday, March 21, 2024 10:00 PM

How about painting the interrior of the form with a high gloss paint?  Wood glue shouldn't stick to that much.

Good luck,

Richard

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • 158 posts
Posted by wolfman hal on Friday, March 22, 2024 6:54 AM

Interesting. I might even try it with Poly.

Harold

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Friday, March 22, 2024 8:35 AM

Something you need to mention is what you're using for glue.  If as I suspect it's cyanoacrylate, wax paper won't work well.  What you might try is a sheet of plastic with 'low surface activity' -- polyethylene, perhaps, or acetal if they make it in suitable sheet size.  Next best would be a spray-on mold release agent, which can be a thin silicone-based oil or something like the Miller-Stephenson PTFE coatings (MS122 or MS143 series) that would have minimum transfer to the inside of your assemblies.

You might also try one of the two-part 'hydrophobic' coatings that are sold to make the most surprising sorts of things 'waterproof'.

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,908 posts
Posted by maxman on Friday, March 22, 2024 11:12 AM

I don't think that I would want to use any substance that could transfer to the wood parts, especially if painting/staining will be needed later.

The waxed paper method has been recommended for longer than I can remember.

Not to be snarky or overly critical, but perhaps a little more caution when applying the adhesive might be in order.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
  • 9,352 posts
Posted by BATMAN on Friday, March 22, 2024 1:35 PM

I would draw the forms on parchment paper and use pins on a hunk of foam to hold things in place. Most glues will not stick to parchment paper.

I wonder if you can run parchment paper through a printer?Hmm

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Friday, March 22, 2024 5:39 PM

You can certainly run parchment paper through a laser printer, but the glue might stick to the fused toner and pull it loose.

I don't believe in the inkjet scam so I have no idea if transferred ink changes the smooth paper surface or can start dissolving or diffusing out...

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,360 posts
Posted by kasskaboose on Saturday, March 23, 2024 7:53 PM

BATMAN

I would draw the forms on parchment paper and use pins on a hunk of foam to hold things in place. Most glues will not stick to parchment paper.

I wonder if you can run parchment paper through a printer?Hmm

My wife ran parchment paper through our current (ancient) ink jet printer and no issues, so I'd think it's fine.

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Tuesday, March 26, 2024 5:37 PM

Of course you could always use a piece of glass as a 'light table' and tape the parchment paper to it 'printed side down' -- the parchment then doubling as the 'frosting' for the glass pane to diffuse the light.

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