Of course you could always use a piece of glass as a 'light table' and tape the parchment paper to it 'printed side down' -- the parchment then doubling as the 'frosting' for the glass pane to diffuse the light.
BATMAN I would draw the forms on parchment paper and use pins on a hunk of foam to hold things in place. Most glues will not stick to parchment paper. I wonder if you can run parchment paper through a printer?
I would draw the forms on parchment paper and use pins on a hunk of foam to hold things in place. Most glues will not stick to parchment paper.
I wonder if you can run parchment paper through a printer?
My wife ran parchment paper through our current (ancient) ink jet printer and no issues, so I'd think it's fine.
You can certainly run parchment paper through a laser printer, but the glue might stick to the fused toner and pull it loose.
I don't believe in the inkjet scam so I have no idea if transferred ink changes the smooth paper surface or can start dissolving or diffusing out...
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I don't think that I would want to use any substance that could transfer to the wood parts, especially if painting/staining will be needed later.
The waxed paper method has been recommended for longer than I can remember.
Not to be snarky or overly critical, but perhaps a little more caution when applying the adhesive might be in order.
Something you need to mention is what you're using for glue. If as I suspect it's cyanoacrylate, wax paper won't work well. What you might try is a sheet of plastic with 'low surface activity' -- polyethylene, perhaps, or acetal if they make it in suitable sheet size. Next best would be a spray-on mold release agent, which can be a thin silicone-based oil or something like the Miller-Stephenson PTFE coatings (MS122 or MS143 series) that would have minimum transfer to the inside of your assemblies.
You might also try one of the two-part 'hydrophobic' coatings that are sold to make the most surprising sorts of things 'waterproof'.
Interesting. I might even try it with Poly.
Harold
How about painting the interrior of the form with a high gloss paint? Wood glue shouldn't stick to that much.
Good luck,
Richard
Tried that. Did not work.
Hi Harold,
Not having seen your form, I wonder if wax paper would work? I remember using it overtop of balsa plane plans so the parts didn't get glued down.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I am building a long snow shed. I created a form on a wooden board so I can duplicate a bunch of supports.
My question is
What can I use as a form release to make sure the wood pieces don't stick to the wooden form if the is a little extra glue?
I was thinking of using my CRC 2-26 Cleaner which contains a little bit of oil.