Hi. I have just purchased the Walthers Diamond Coal kit. It will be up front and the largest industry on my layout. So, I am hoping to get plenty of advice from this forum on painting and weathering this plastic material to make it look as realistic as possible. I am open to all suggestions and if anyone has a picture to go with their recommended method that would be great. I am pretty new at this and have relied heavily on the terrific advice I get.
Thanks
wdcrvr
I have achieved good result on corrugated styrene by painting with a light grey primer and then using oil and Mountain Modelcraft washes with applications of Doc O,Brien and AIM weathering powders. I start out pretty light with the applications, working up to the desired effect.
Did a shed roof, used an aluminium base coat and then dry brushed rust, more toward the bottom of each sheet. I used a sharp pencil to make the lines denoting the edge of the sheets. Not familiar with how the sheets are noted in the kit, but they usually come in lengths of 8' - 16' sheets of 2' increments, 36" wide, creating a 32" cover (due to overlap). I then treated each sheet seperatly. The sheets may rust differently, so I didn't worry if they didn't all match. Also, if water got between two sheets the surfaces exposed to the water rust dramaticly more.
Good luck,
Richard
LION use ribbon cables from old computers. Makes good corregated, takes paint well. Him installed some with silicone glue. Silicone not take paint well. On layout looks ok since it represents the pealing paint of the prototype.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Grey primer and rust powders.
I've used a silver spray paint, then toned it down with Dull-Coat and finally brushed on rust and black weathering powders and sealed those with a second layer of Dull-Coat.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I used aluminum paint and black and rust weathering powders on mine.
Great Picture, Grampy. It really helps to see the resuls of the method you used. The entire scene looks really good to me.
One form of "weathering" that is rarely seen on plastic models, but very common on the prototype, is the denting and damage that the sheet metal undergoes over time. I have photos of a corrugated metal sided building (likely wood underneath) where the area of the freight doors is incredibly banged up, with the bottom edges of the sheathing curling up and deep dents around each freight door. In other words it does not have that clean flat regularity of the molded kit parts.
One way to approximate that is thin foil cut to the size of the metal sheets modeled on the kit, pressed into the corrugations of the kit using perhaps a dried up ball point pen (an old E.L. Moore trick) and cemented over the stiff plastic sheet. Moore also made corrugated metal out of stiff bond paper pressed into corrugated metal or plastic using that dried ball point pen. He might have then stiffened the paper using shellac. A large sheet could be done at one time, and then cut into the appropriate sized pieces. The whole building should not look dented and dinged but at strategic points it can be very effective.
Dave Nelson
Grampys Trains I used aluminum paint and black and rust weathering powders on mine.
Looks great Grampy!
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Thanks, guys.