SouthPenn I wanted to add a reversing loop to one end of my layout. I wanted the largest radius loop I could fit in the space that I had. Instead of buying a piece of plywood and ending up with a lot of scap, I decided to use 1/2" plastic water pipe. I connected 2 pieces of pipe together using a 1/2" wood dowel. I then had a 20' long piece of pipe. I made a second pipe the same as the first. I laid the two 20' lengths next to each other on the garage floor. By pulling all the ends together I created a large loop. After installing the loop on my layout, I glued the cork roadbed to the pipes and glued the flex track to the cork. It makes a nice loop, but is almost imposible to make any changes. Never again. What size pictures can be posted here? South Penn
I wanted to add a reversing loop to one end of my layout. I wanted the largest radius loop I could fit in the space that I had. Instead of buying a piece of plywood and ending up with a lot of scap, I decided to use 1/2" plastic water pipe.
I connected 2 pieces of pipe together using a 1/2" wood dowel. I then had a 20' long piece of pipe. I made a second pipe the same as the first. I laid the two 20' lengths next to each other on the garage floor. By pulling all the ends together I created a large loop. After installing the loop on my layout, I glued the cork roadbed to the pipes and glued the flex track to the cork. It makes a nice loop, but is almost imposible to make any changes. Never again.
What size pictures can be posted here?
South Penn
I sure hope you have a picture of that.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Sure hope these work.
Picture 1 http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/SouthPenn/media/PA060002_zpsla5lavuy.jpg.html
Picture 2 http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/SouthPenn/media/PA190007_zpsagbcrdny.jpg.html
Picture 3 http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/SouthPenn/media/PC030016_zps1fglcfku.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Well, I have tried the caulk, Aleene's and E6000 as suggested.
I am amazed how well the caulk works. I've put down about 65' of track and 9 turnouts with it and am very satisfied with how it holds. If I had to come up with a concern, it would be a fear that it protects the roadbed too well against the scenic cement I'll use for the ballast. I'm counting on the cement to bond everything together and I'm thinking the caulk may impact that by not letting it seep into the roadbed.
The Aleene's I found to be unsatisfactory. Even after it sets, it lets go when it gets wet and it doesn't really hold all that great to start with. I think Atlas flextrack tie bottoms are just too slick for this product.
The E6000 however might be the stickiest stuff I've ever seen. With some work I could get the caulk to let go. The Aleene's popped of very easily. This stuff is impossible to defeat. I think I'll use it on hidden track that won't get ballast.
These are my impressions only - based on my unscientific testing.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Using ME track nails works quite well to secure track. I create holes in the ME track using a pin vice for them and they easily disappear. They get inserted in the holes using a needle-nose plier.
For securing cork to foam, I use Elmer's white glue. That stuff is cheap and much easier to remove than chalk. Chalk is only used for heavy duty scenery work.
Most of the track on my current layout was installed with Alex Plus clear sealant. Since it isn't intended as an adhesive, track can be removed easily with no damage, but the bond is more than sufficient to keep the track secure unless you want to take it up. I've always used spikes in the past, but after having built a large layout using the sealant, I'd never go back.
Rob Spangler
Bonus to not using spikes, if you are adding on to an existing layout, since you don't need to hammer spikes in, you don't have to take everything off the layout to add that new siding to prevent the banging from knocking stuff on the floor. Scale magnitude 8.5 earthquakes are a thing of the past. I too cannot imagine going back to the old way. Oh yeah - if you work on modules and do so in say the family room where others are engaging in their activites at the same time - no hammering means more peace and quiet and less disturbing the other family members.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
South Penn,
I could get two of three pics to show, really nice idea. I like it.
Now, as to the OP: Elmers woodworking glue. Cork to wood base, then ties to cork. Only caveat- wood ties for handlaid track. Flex track get pins and/or nails. Especially on curves. Curves and glue on my flex track just didn't like each other.
And, now, moving and redoing layout, glad the only glue is on the handlaid segments, that are staying as they are, salvaged from the new layout.
(I have also used the liquid nails for projects when gluing cork to base, but like the woodworking glue better. Less fumes. Better for me that way. Projects glue does hold very well though.....)
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.