Here begins the saga of my attempt at garden railroading. The pictures show the garden area as it now appears and where the first stage of construction will begin. I'm calling it the SRS Road in honor of my father, who devoted 30 years of his life to the Southern Railway.
The picture shows most of the area to be involved in phase one. It will be a simple oval running just outside the bench but inside of the bird bath, then passing inside of the white plant stand. From here the balance of the loop is blocked from view by the big tree in the foreground. It won't be a perfect oval but very near it. Total distance around is 40'.
As you can see it is all level however, there is a depression in front of the plant stand. I plan to make it even deeper, fill it with small stones to similate a "rocky gorge" and put a bridge of some sort accross it.
Construction will begin as soon as I can remove the plants that have to go to new locations. In this area that will be late March or early April. Both bird bath and bench will also be moved somewhere else.
Any comments about the space and any ideas on how best to utilize it would be greatly appreicated. Right now I'm thinking of trenching out the loop and "floating" my track in crusher fines and then filling over that with chicken grit. I will lay sectional track, brass, not sure yet about rail fasterners yet but realize some form of fastners will have to be used.
I will also need to place at least two switches somewhere in the loop as in phase two, much later, I want to connect it to a larger outer loop. The outer loop will follow the picket fence which encloses the entire garden area.
Thanks for any comments.................
I got the bird bath and the bench, but failed on the plant stand.
Why not post an overhead plan, with dimensions, and location of items that cannot move.
Otherwise, it's really hard to give any opinion other than move out the plants and lay some track on the ground.
Regards, Greg
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That is an interesting space. My personal opinion is to:
1. Clear the space completely, start with a blank canvas. This will allow you to see fully what the space can do for you without distraction. Plants you think you want to save now may not fit in with the final theme. Put them in pots if you want to save them, but otherwise remove them from the site.
2. Lay out some track on the bare ground and start running a train. This will keep you motivated and give you some concept of railroad potential without any real work. You can change the track very easily when new ideas or problems arise.
3. Put on a pot of coffee, crank up some Punk Rock on the CD and start scratching out some track plans. I'm thinking folded dog-bone, but it's hard to see from the photo if that is practical. You might want to go with an "out and back" plan as well. It depends on your research in step 2 what would work. Two ovals initialy seems like a good idea, but a plan that allows more operations will serve you better in the long run as well as looking better visualy.
4. Once you decide on a plan that works on paper and the ground, then begin actual construction.
Just my
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
Thanks to both of you. The plant stand is the white object you see in the background and to the right of the Cyprus tree. At one time there was a small pond just in front of it and after being filled in over time it sunk in a little, hence the depression.
Good idea about removing all plants from the area. I think that's what I'll do. That would certaintly give me a clearer picture of the space and perhaps bring some different layouts into view. Everything can go but the Cypruss tree of course. Too big to dig up and too pretty to chop down.
Weather here right now is real nice. Highs in the mid to upper 50's. Great time to start moving plants. Most of it is just monkey grass anyway and I won't even brother trying to save it.
I will try and post some more pictures of the space once I have it all cleared.
Best regards to you both and thanks for taking time to comment.
Naturally i disagree with everyone; i would have no real interest in details at this stage. The firstthing i would do is to grid the area out; it may look flat but it may well not be.
I can give this to you metrically but if you wish to convert to imperial please feel free to do so.
1) Accurately scribe out the area to be used.
2) do a cross grid and place a marker stake at evry metre in both directions, scribe lines right across in bot directions. you will now hve lines intersecting every metre and drive stakes in here as well.
3) Draw up the same grid on a piece of metric graph paper.
4) get a water level and record the height at every marker on said graph paper in centimetres. Don't forget your variations inheight on your water level will only be half of the true level variation.
5) If you can try to get a base datum line at every point; ie decide on a common height and transfer that height onto the stakes with either a line with a marker pen or drive the atakes in until they are of equla height and eqqual to your base datum line. (It is good to use this term :base datum" as it makes you soumd professional)
6) Draw out your complete intended layout on the graph paper; make the esteblishment of your points (switches) of prime concern and then work the rest of your layout from that, even thoug you are not going to put them in just yet.
7) At this time also depict any established landmarks that will remain; such as a garden shed, rose bush, graves of previous wives and stuff like that.
8) When you have your layout reasonably clear (change it as little as posible as you may chage your mind) transfer the plan onpaper to a clearly scribed plan on the ground in question.
9) Now have another good look at where you are going to place your points.
When you have done all this let me know and i will send you a beer inthe mail.
I would also get copy of Kalmbachs "Garden Railroading; getting started in the hobby" this is my bible.
rgds ian
Tom Trigg
buried mine in the cellar.............................................
Looks a nice big area , should give plenty of scope for a track
Thanks everyone. I'm really excitided about getting started. Ian, how bout I just clear the area of plants, bring in a little dirt to level up everything, except the gorge, take some new measurements, transfer those to grid paper and begin making some drawings?
I will put down a few stakes for reference points but man, your system sure sounds awful envolved. Are you sure that is the way to go?
Raining here today so no work done.
Clear the area of plants by all means, especially if you have no real plans for them in your layout. But i am against doing unnecessary work and you may put the dirt in the wrong place or you may decide against it at all, once you have a clear overview of the site and some good ideas start to germinate in your little brain cavity.
ie you may want to put in a small bridge or a cutting or even a tunnel once you get a better idea of the topography of your plot.
However its your baby and the whole idea of this hobby is to have fun and express yourself and do a bit of creative thinking and turn it into reality.
Rhds ian
Realy you should clear the site, put down an oval of track on the bare ground so you can run a train, THEN start whatever other planning you want to do. Taking a site survey is an excellent way to proceed, but it is involved and time consuming, as is leveling the entire site.
A happy medium can be met by doing a little of both, survey what you have, then fill or cut what you don't want after you decide on a plan. It is important during the planning phase to have a train running, I can't stress that enough. You will be amazed at the ideas you will get from watching the train run on a simple oval of track. Next thing you know you will add a switch, then another length of track, then some cinder blocks to represent buildings, maybe a bucket for a water tank. All this will help you visualize what will work in your space. It's OK to change your mind if your original plan doesn't pan out. The important thing is to begin.
SRS 4501 wrote: I will put down a few stakes for reference points but man, your system sure sounds awful envolved. Are you sure that is the way to go?
Yes, Ians system works and well. But you still can lay grid and use a laser at every grid point.
Yes it uses alot of time but I have been saving up and buyn brass track for the last 2 yrs. Some trains here and there but have a 12' piece of track to check kitbashed stuff. When you get in a hurry you screw up in some shape or form
SRS 4501 wrote: As you can see it is all level however, there is a depression in front of the plant stand. I plan to make it even deeper, fill it with small stones to similate a "rocky gorge" and put a bridge of some sort accross it.
I just thought of this as you said "depression", nasty word, was a pond to, nasty word because the earth there still has not have time to settle. Now idea for that you might kill me but if you have seen white lime mixed with soil makes a great solid effect so we hope it will not drop any more. Use a tiller and 5lb. bag of lime +/- and till under then let the water do its thing. You can use mother namture water or get out a one you don't have to be there to water it.
Area is now cleared of all plant material. Bird bath and bench have been moved. Will bring in some dirt to fill in the low places and begin staking it out. Pictures will follow as soon as I get them back. (don't own a digital camra yet.........
T.J. What is a "folded dog bone?"
Well a folded dog bone is basicaly a dog bone shaped track plan, that is to say it's an oval, but the center portions are squeezed in, making a more or less dog bone shape. Now if you fold that in the middle, then it's a folded dog bone. I like that sort of plan because in the same amount of space as an oval you get a lot more visual interest, it looks like the railroad is doing something more than just going around in a circle.
If I come across a graphic I'll be sure to post it for you.
Thanks you two. Got it now. Basic oval pattern but with a twist My only concern is the radius of the inside curves. From side to side the space will be over 9' wide. From end to end the it is appx. 16'.
There is a large cyprus tree at one end. The tree stays. This reduces the lenght of the inside space to appx. 13'.
I should have some exact measurements to report in my next up-date. (along with new pictures)
Thanks again.............
Was wondering how do you figure the number of curve pieces you will need to complete the various curves in your layout? Perhaps they come already pre-determined when you order from a supplier.
Looks like I will have two 14' curves, two 13', three 8.5', one 9' and one 4'. So, how much curve track do I need for each?
I have a layout design worked out on paper and this is how I came up with the number of curves. The total area is somewhat larger than I first estimated. Picture a square 15x17 feet. That's what I have to work with.
Thanks
I buy track and sleepers (ties) as a kit and i bend my own and i believe this is the best way for me to go. It is garder i know but it is a lot cheaper and more versatile.
Rgds Ian
It's true, flex track doesn't get it's fair share of forum time. If I had the time and enthusiasm, that is the way I would go. You get complete control with flex to do what you want, and with 250 aluminum rail on hand cut ties it looks great, all for about the same price as prefab.
Yes, I said aluminum rail. That also doesn't get a fair shake for being a great rail choice, even with track power. True, I use sectional brass track, but I don't have the time to handlay and with 4 kids I need the durability of factory track. But I have been making secret purchases from Llagas Creek...............
Thanks everyone. I'm just not real sure about "flex-track." I'm afraid it would put my limited expertise to the test and not turn out well. The area is fairly small so running sectional track won't be too much of a problem for me. I think I can "stick" sectional track together OK but flex-track? Well that's a differnt animal, at least for me it is.
So for now I want to stay with sectional track which brings me back to my original question. How do you determine the amount of track you need to make the curves I mentioned previously? Any tips on that?
Many thanks "you all."
A simple rule of thumb that I use is that each section of track is 12" long, so simply figure out how many whole feet long the curve or straightaway will be then that is the number of sections of track you need. It is difficult (at least for me) to get an exact quantity so I usualy end up with an extra few pieces of track, or end up one short and have to go to the hobby store.
Either way I buy my track 12 in the box from Ridge Road and if I have a few extra pieces who cares.
tangerine-jack wrote: A simple rule of thumb that I use is that each section of track is 12" long, so simply figure out how many whole feet long the curve or straightaway will be then that is the number of sections of track you need.
A simple rule of thumb that I use is that each section of track is 12" long, so simply figure out how many whole feet long the curve or straightaway will be then that is the number of sections of track you need.
Are you saying that if the curve is 14' wide, one side to the other, I would need 14 sections of 12" curved track? I not sure I understand your method. Don't you have to know the radius of the curve before buying the track for it? The reason I ask is I've seen ad's for used track that state 12 pieces curved track to make a 4' circle. This makes me think the track (curve pieces) is specific for the space it has to connect. Am I making any sense?
Maybe that is where the code for curved track comes in to play. R1 to R4 for example. What does that tell me? Is there a code to know when purchasing curved track?
Wow, do I have a lot to learn!
PS: Looks like Santa is going to be good to me after all. Have my first train on order. Bachmann's 4-6-0 Big Hauler ET & WNC passenger. Can't wait for it to get here!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, it's a little more complicated than I posted, but you use the linear length of the track, not the radius. And it is a general Rule of Thumb, not an exact formula. When you get closer to needing the full amount of trackage it will be useful to know what radius you are using as well as what brand of track in order to refine your bill of materials. Use the simplified formula for planning, for example if your total track length is say 200ft, then you budget for 200 track sections of all types.
It can be complex, but it doesn't have to be. If you buy too much you can take some back or sell it to somebody else, if you didn't buy enough then get more. I guess it all depends on how in depth you want to go on the planning. For the most part, 12 sections of any radius track will make a full circle.
I hope this makes sense, I've just spent 18 hours on the road and I'm a little tired.
Here she is!!!!!!
My first G-scale engine............
She is nice!
Funny how she looks like (number same too) Bman train set at Sam's Wholesale (Christmas Set) that was picked up for myself today. Tender has different name.
Hey twins
Well they are probably the same engine with just a different "road' name. Only thing is mine only cost me 50 bucks. Now if I had some track to run it on I'd be set..................
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