Recommendations

[Anonymous]

Hello everyone:  I am new to the forum and new to garden railroading.  I am planning an outdoor display with a Spring 07 start date for construction.  I have the perfect place and feel like it won't be too much of a problem.

What I am having problems with is selecting my engines and rolling stock.  I've look at and read just about everything on the major manufactures and realize I need some advice.  Money is of course an issue so interested in getting the most for my doller but without breaking the bank.

Two sources I've been looking at.  1) Bachmann's "Big Hauler" engines and 2) USA Trains's military series with their GP7 locomotive.

Also, what do you think about buying a starter set first?  I've looked at Bachmann's ads and they have serveral that seem perty good.  Just wanted to be sure the engine that comes in the set is the same engine shown in their Big Hauler line.  Anyone had any experience with this?

One more thing, can you run rolling stock from one mfg. on track purchased from another?

Thanks for taking the time to send me your responce.  I have a lot to learn about equipment I know.

SRS 4501

 

[two tone]

Yes it`s a good idea to to buy a starter kit , I run Bachmann.  All of my track and turnouts are LGB,I have had no trouble running asorted rolling stock on my track and it`s been down for the beat part of 4 years. depending on how big a layout you are going to run IE track lenth 500 feet+ I would recomend the turn outs beelectric and I use the Train Engineer to control it all If you are going to run big haulers then use radius 3 for your curves as a minimum

[Ray Dunakin]

I'm no expert, but from what I've seen so far most starter sets contain the manufacturer's cheapest, lowest quality stuff. Which seems pretty counterproductive, to me.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for your input.  I was leaning towards a starter set from Bachmann but now I'm worried if these sets are suitable for outdoor installation.  I read in one hobby shop review the set I'm interested in requires a 120v AC plug in to operate.  Said the track it comes with is suitable for carpet or flooring and is all steel contruction. 

This doesn't sound like what I'm looking for as I am going to install outdoors.

I did send an e-mail to Bachmann to see if they would confirm the engine in the set I want is indeed one of their Big Hauler Engines.  Haven't heard back as yet.

 

 

[Tom The Brat]

The transformer isn't a problem, just don't leave it out in the rain. The big problem is going to be track. Get LBG, Aristo or USA track to put outside.

[piercedan]

I disagree with starter sets being low end.

LGB has some awesome starter sets.

Biggest drawback to a starter set is the following:

Track is minimum radius/diameter and larger engines obtained in the future will not  like the tight curves.
Sets have 4 foot diameter (2 foot radius) curves.  These curves have an outside diameter of approx. 51 inches and do not fit on a 4 foot piece of plywood.
Power packs are  small, but ok for the starter sets.  This pack can be used for becnh testing/repair in the future when you expand your track power.

I personally believe that the sets are a bargain and are a good start.  My first set was the LGB 30th anniversary set and the Stainz that came in this set is regarded as one of the best engines ever produced in large scale for price/repair/reliability.  It has been running for 7 years without a problem.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the tips to each of you.  Two Tone, mind telling what type of equipment you have from Bachmann?  I want to do a passenger set first and while I like the prices of their starter sets I think I will buy track from someone else.  I'm looking at their "Mountaineer" E.T. & W.N.C. line.  Will purchase one additional car, a combind I think, and will ease into the hobby with that.

I have a special interest in this line as my Grandfather was a conductor with the railroad there operating from Hickory to Ashville.  Later I want to add a Southern Passenger Train to the layout as my father was a freight and passenger agent for SRS for 30 years.  I remember seeing my very first Diesel Locomotive at the station in Valdosta GA one day with my dad.  I was probably only about 7 or 8 at the time. 

Thanks again to everyone and I will keep the forum posted on my progress.

 

 

 

[Anonymous]

personally i would look at Aristocraft starter sets as a mid point between  cost  and function - and are available at some very good prices

[Mike Dorsch CJ&M r.r.]

They are all good sets but you might want to get the largest diameter track that will fit into your yard so later down the line when you see that Dash-9 or other large engine you want it wont look silly going around 4 foot curves .Just my two cents for what its worth .

[Anonymous]

I am all for getting a starter set, don't worry too jmuch about the track its hardly worth having anyway.

I would not agree that they are low in quality either. My first engine was an LGB Stainz and i have worked it over some but it is still my favourite loco. I have added an LGB decoder and a sound powrered tender and it is still a very good little loco.The rest of the starter set is all still in use in onne way or another as it has been absorbed into the overall concern

Ian

[Anonymous]

My first was an Aristo 0-4-0 switcher starter set and I'm more that happy with the engine and and the two cars that came with it.  Piercedan1 is right though.  I now have a whole bunch of 4' curve track that came with the starter set that I don't have use for.  He is also right about the power supply.  The first thing I ordered was a Crest  5 amp power supply because the one that came with the starter set was simply inadequate.   But what the heck, it's only money. 

[Anonymous]

Eric i have read an article somewhere about how you can turn 2 curves into a single atraight as many other people have too many curves as well including me.

Rgds Ian

PS i think you cut the webbing, remove the rails and straighten them using a rail bender. Then you adjust the webbing to suit a straight track and then put the whole thing back together again.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the tips to each of you.  Two Tone, mind telling what type of equipment you have from Backmann?  I want to do a passenger set first and while I like the prices of their starter sets I think I will buy track from someone else.  I'm looking at their "Mountaineer" E.T. & W.N.C. line.  Will purchase one additional car, a combind I think, and will ease into the hobby with that.

I have a special interest in this line as my Grandfather was a conductor with the railroad there operating from Hickory to Ashville.  Later I want to add a Southern Passenger Train to the layout as my father was a freight and passenger agent for SRS for 30 years.  I remember seeing my very first Diesel Locomotive at the station in Valdosta GA one day with my dad.  I was probably only about 7 or 8 at the time. 

Thanks again to everyone and I will keep the forum posted on my progress.

Howdy!

If you have your heart set on the Bachmann Big Haulers (notice the spelling) by all means get a "Spectrum" series set and then purchase some QUALITY track (LGB, Aristo) to run it on outdoors.  The Bachmann track, sorry to say--is the worst in the market.  I recommend LGB turnout tracks for switches. 

Depending on your real estate--get the largest diameter curve track you can $$ afford that will fit (i.e, LGB 16000 or 18000).  Your investment NOW will pay off LATER!  Realize that in garden railways, skimping on quality of roadbed, track, and power is going to frustrate you down the line.  If you can't afford the bigger curves now, that is okay, you can always later sell the small curves for a good price on Ebay or somewhere.

Hopefully, your hobby shop has the goods in stock to help you get underway.  A popular and good power unit to start out with is a MRC Control Master 20 (4.5 amp/20 volts).  Ask your dealer if he stocks Aristo (Train Engineer) or LGB power and take a look and measure bang per buck (since you are on a budget).

You really are NOT suppose to keep these hobby power supplies outdoors and with kids around its much better to keep the power supply inside and run the throttle control outdoors.  The MRC 20 allows you to do this for a fair price.

Regards,

 

Tom M.

 

[Anonymous]

Again thanks to everyone for your input.  I am going to take some measurements this week end of the area I have to work with.  It is a fenced in garden where a 15' above ground pool once sat.  If some one can tell me how to post a picture I will include one taken from the roof over my patio.  It gives a perfect "birds-eye" view of the whole area.  I'm guessing it will be a 17 to 20' circle by the time I'm through mapping it out.  It is all level ground with a lot of plants, some rocks and some big trees.

I have decided to purchase my rolling stock seperate so I don't end up with (maybe) an inferior engine, track I can't use, and an inadequate power supply.  I have been searching on e-bay and there seems to be some really good deals out there.  My first choice is still Bachmann's Moutaineer but I now belive it can be put together seperately at almost the same cost.  I can get four coaches for that set on e-bay for 107.00.  Then I will hand select the engine to pull them.  Probably one of their "Spectrum" series.  Will order track from one of the sources recommended, as well as a power supply. 

I live in middle Tennessee near Franklin.  There is a train shop there called "South Bound Trains."  They sell Bachmann, USA Trains, and Aristo-Craft.  I am going over there tomorrow to look around.

Thanks again everyone. 

[Snoq. Pass RR]

Your investment NOW will pay off LATER!  Realize that in garden railways, skimping on quality of roadbed, track, and power is going to frustrate you down the line. 

That is one thing I missed when building my layout.  I got a bunch of 4' Diameter (2' Radius) LGB curves and built my layout.  Now that I have a Bach 2-8-0, I have to rebuild part of my layout to allow the 2-8-0 to run.

It may seem that you are spending a lot of money now.  But don't look at just the money, look at the labor.  How much time are you willing to spend to build, and possibily rebuild, your layout.  Do it right the first time, and you will get years of enjoyment.  And now back or knee problems.

[Anonymous]

When i started in this hobby, i got a Kalmbach book, i think it was called "getting started in the hobby" and i treated it as my bible and i got a lot of good stuff out of it. I followed what Jack Verducci had to say and it worked out 100 % correct and now with the experience that i have had; i could nearly write a book myself.

I have gone right around a big circle and am really glad i got inot digital control, and it has taken me in a direction i didn't think possible, automation.

In a completely different direction i have actually copied a big bridge down in Brisbane and i have designe my own bridge, which i then made out of Marine ply, and i can tell you it has really helped me a lot. As i am getting on in age, keeping my brain active is important to me and this hobby has done just that. Just now i have even designed my own electrical device, bought the components and am about to assemble it and test it and see if it works as i think it will. It wiil also use an LGB detection module as wellin what i wish to do.

Rgds Ian 

[kimbrit]

As with all things in this world, just get going. I doesn't really matter whether you start off with an LGB starter set or a mix and match from Bachmann, you'll keep it for ever because it's your first bit of gear. It's a magic moment when you finish your first day's hard labour in the garden and you put some track down, crack a beer and run that first consist. A word about track, Aristo is very good because you bolt the joints together, which gives mechanical strength and good electrical continuity. The bolts are fiddley, I use a small bit of blue-tac in the bolt head to stick to the driver and put a container lid under the joint to catch the bolt if it drops off!. Agree with all about good power packs - go enjoy!

Cheers,

Kim

[vsmith]

Get the Mountaineer set, as with most things, you should get what you really like.

 

OK your not going to use the crappy track anyway right? The Bachmann engine and cars are A-OK for outdoor use (just dont leave them outside for weeks, keep them under some form of cover).

 

Since your going to buy track anyway, you can decide what diameter track you going to purchase, 4foot diameter or R1 was the standard for years, but now most tend to follow the "wider is beter" school of thought...personally I still use R1 but I'm space constrained. I would go no smaller than R3 or 6 foot diameter (its actually 6 1/2 feet but its easier to say 6'), doing so you'll be able to run any and all 4 axle deisels like the Geep, and most smaller steam locomotives. Going to 8 foot diameter opens up a world on possibilities, including just about everything locomotive and car wise on the market!

 

Keep in mind that any switches you buy will be ruled by what locomotives your running, dont expect to runn a DASH-9 thru an R1 switch, you will need the wider (and more expensive) switches for the larger engines, its a serious consideration. My R1 switches can be got for $25 bucks a pop, where the next size R3 6 foot diameters jumps to $45 and R5 8 footers are over $65 each !!!

 

Of course no one says you HAVE to have any switches, all you need is a simple loop and a gumption to do it.

[Anonymous]

I dis agreewith what Vic had to say; i don't know why but i just do.

Rgds ian

[Anonymous]

Me again.  Wow, your responces have been terrfic.  Keep them coming!  The week end here was bad so didn't take measurements yet.  The area as I mentioned is quite large so I don't think there will be any problem with curve radius.  I will use 6' curves for most and maybe even one 8' if the layout works I have in mind.

I have a screened-in covered patio off the back door of the house.  The garden area is just off the patio.  I plan to run a spur track into the patio from the main line so at night, or during bad weather, I can bring the train/s inside.  There will be one large loop around the primeter of the garden with smaller inter loops connected to form a figure eight.  Where the figure eight crosses is a fairly large open area with no plants.  This is where we have chairs and benches set up to relax in and enjoy the garden.

The garden area is fenced in with a wooden picit fence.  It is completed hidden from the rest of the back yard and neighbor's houses by large shrubs and hedges.  When your in the garden it's like being in a tropical "hide-a-way."  

I see at least one bridge over a sunken gully and one or more tunnels through man-made moutains.  The train will be Bachmann's "Mountaineer," a  4-6-0 Anniversity Edition Engine.  It will have three passenger cars.  Other rolling stock will be added as time goes on.

So, will be looking for advice on power supplys, track, switches, road bed construction and anything else anyone can think of.  This project kicks off as soon as the weather here turns nice again, late March or early April.

I'd like to post some pictures, someone tell me how to do that in the forum...........

Thanks again to everyone's comments.

 

   

 

[Anonymous]

I use a dab of Elmer's white glue on the end of the little screwdriver (or hex-head wrench) to keep the little track connector screw in place while joining track.  The R1 curve sections were all replaced with 5' radius sections.  I wanted to go larger, but that's about the best I can squeexe into my small layout.  Darn, now I have a bunch of R1 stuff just sitting around gathering dust.

[Anonymous]

Someone explaine to me what  a "Dash-9" is and why the curve radius in track is so important?  Pardon my "dumb" but remember this is all new to me.  Also, some advice on laying roadbed would be most helpful. 

I will be running Bachmann's 4-6-0 steam engine so what brand of track would be best?  Also, I have a "big" leaf problem this time of year and was wondering if any members out there have run into this as well.  If so, how did you solve the "leaf" issue?

Please bear with me..................thanks!

 

 

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Ok, you've decided on your starter set!  I'd say that the one thing that can't be emphasized enough is to go big on the curve radius.   Other than that, keep reading on these forums and you'll absorb a lot of useful stuff.   At the risk of getting my hand smacked I can say that I frequent 3 forums, this one, Aristo's, and to a somewhat lesser extent the lsol.  There are indeed several others out there and each will have it's detractors and proponents; so go with the ones you like.

One thing about it; the gang on these forums like it when you pick thier brains!   Ask your questions, we all had to start somewhere!    I think that reading the forums from now til you start construction will prove quite helpful.   If you have a question you might also try a subject search.  Those reference stickys at the top really will be helpful, and folks aren't discussing the same things over and over ad infinitem!

The biggest thing is to get something running, even just a circle!

[Anonymous]

I agrree Bob,

Ian

[Anonymous]

SRS, I have a small layout (20x10) with lots of junipers, astas and rhodos to trap the tons (or so it seems) of leaves falling.  I use my large shop vac once a week to keep it clear.  I tried blowing but they seem to come right back. 

[Ray Dunakin]

A Dash-9 is a BIG, modern diesel loco. That's about the limit of my diesel knowledge.

Curve radius is important mainly because larger equipment can't handle tight curves. Many locos require a minimum 8' diameter (4' radius). A few require 10' minimum diameter (5' radius).

You can use tighter curves if absolutely necessary, but you will be limited in the type of locos and rolling stock you can run. There's plenty of fun to be had running small locos and short trains!

A secondary issue is realism. The broader the curves, the more realistic your trains will look as they go around them.

As I understand it, LGB designs all their equipment to run on the tightest possible curves (about 2' radius). But a big loco going around such a sharp curve will look toy-like. Of course, some folks don't mind that either, and are quite content with their sharp curves.

That's the nice thing about this hobby, you can enjoy it in whatever form suits you. Just be aware that once you commit to a minimum radius, you're stuck with it unless you tear up your layout and redo everything. If your layout has a lot of permanent construction that can be difficult.

In some cases, the space you have to work with will shape all your decisions. My layout is on a steep hillside, and the only way I can fit it is by using some fairly tight curves. So there'll be no Big Boys or Dash-9's for me. It's not ideal but it's better than no railroad at all, and I love small narrow gauge trains anyway.

[kimbrit]

Leaves are a problem for railways of all size. I have a garden vac that soon gets rid of all of the leaves and any other bits of nature that's on the track. Remember that the bigger the curve the better your train will look, and this applies to narrow guage as well as standard guage. Apart from LGB most modern big loco's will only accept 8' diameter track as a minimum and I think this should be 10' as I've done some filing on an Aristo mike to get it round my 8' curves. At the end of the day it's your railway and if it looks right then it must be right.

Cheers,

Kim

[Anonymous]

OK.  Thank everyone.  I now know what a Dash-9 is and understand a little better the importance of curves and their radius.  The only thing I don't understand is how do you know what the radius of your curve is going to be when you start prepareing road bed?

I have a garden-vac and a blower and I guess they will be SOP before turing on the train/s.  The area has within its boundries, full grown mature trees such as a Tulip Poplar, Red Leaf Maple, Apple Tree and a TN Black Locus (spelling?).  There is also a young Cypress in the mix.  Together they all make for a very large "leaf" problem for me every year.  I don't guess falling leaves, which occure all year, won't harm the track any.  It is a concern but will not let it stop me.

I won't be running any big engines for quite a while.  My first will be a "Big Hauler" 4-6-0 from Bachman.  It will however have three passenger cars attached.  I assume 4 to 5' curves will be OK.  It will operate on the first installment of the RR, a simple loop well inside the perimeter of the garden.  A second  much larger loop will be added later with connections to the inside loop.

Which brings me to another question.  How difficult is it to add switches to the track after the fact?  Or, should the switches be installed at the beginning even though they don't connect to anything?

Man, do I have a lot to learn.................. 

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Hey Dude, It's a matter of whatever flips your skirt!   If you want to tear a bit out and put switches in well after the fact, it can well be done.  If you shudder at the thought of a bit of extra work and redoing something, then put them in first!    I've done it both ways!   If you absolutely know that you want a switch in location X, then do it at the beginning.   After having something running, I felt I wanted a siding here, and to move a passing siding switch to make the siding longer!  No problem, just more work! 

Rail clamps do make it easier to reconfigure trackage than many other methods of joining track.   They definately make it easier to remove switches when they need work.

Go throw a loop of track down under those trees and get something running.   What do you think they make brooms for anyhow???

I agonized for years about that kind of stuff before I ever started and I wasted years in the process.   Now my knees are too old for that getting up and down and crawling around on the ground.   Just get it started!

[Anonymous]

Aye Aye Capt. Bob!  Soon as the weather turns nice in the spring this old engineer will be on the job.  In the meantime a nice new shiny 4-6-0 will rest on my mantle....

I'll have plenty more questions, you can be sure of that!!!!!!

PS:  Would it be asking too much for an explanation of your handle?  Just what does the "Capt." part mean?  Military connection perhaps?

Semper Fi