battery operated toy trains in a garden railway

[Anonymous]

Hi
Not having seen any of the trains metioned in the poll cannot coment as to quality or not.
But I think I can safely say the days of quality toys are over if the rubish in todays toy shops is anything to go on.
The only good battery powerd trains I have seen have two scources they are either scratch built or built by English manufacturers.
As yet I have not seen a reputable US company that manufactures a good quality battery powered train for the hobbie market
which is a shame but obviously the US market doesnt want that kind of train
regards John

[Anonymous]

Hi
Not having seen any of the trains metioned in the poll cannot coment as to quality or not.
But I think I can safely say the days of quality toys are over if the rubish in todays toy shops is anything to go on.
The only good battery powerd trains I have seen have two scources they are either scratch built or built by English manufacturers.
As yet I have not seen a reputable US company that manufactures a good quality battery powered train for the hobbie market
which is a shame but obviously the US market doesnt want that kind of train
regards John

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Carrales

I am going to purchase on of these "Coastal Express" or "Silvarado Express" sets for a set I am planning outside.

I plan to take it as far as it will go and concentrate on the roadbed so that I can run other trains on it at a later date. Frankly, it is the only kind of outdoor set I can afford.

I am concerned that one of you posted that it had trouble going over switch tracks. I figure that, if I can create a roadbed that can accomadate this set, it will be a better line for more expensive ones.

Wow Marty has it really been that long since this thread started? good to see it back.

Capt C, Were you planning on using only New Bright plastic track or were you going to use brass track? If you were planning on plastic track then the New Bright stuff is all you will be able to run. If you were planning on brass track (brass track is more $$) then you might want to consider that by the time you spend and money spent to build up the roadbed and track to a good level you might as well upgrade to a good Bachmann engine and some cars. I had that "Coastal Express" set, thats the one that pulled like a Yugo with two cylinders missing and would spontaniously derail when ever it felt like it, the engine was very jerky, it basicly two speeds stop and go, with absolutely NOspeed control . The sound was unbeleivebly annoying and there was no volumn control or off switch. I was very dissapointed with it and would never recommend one.

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Carrales

I am going to purchase on of these "Coastal Express" or "Silvarado Express" sets for a set I am planning outside.

I plan to take it as far as it will go and concentrate on the roadbed so that I can run other trains on it at a later date. Frankly, it is the only kind of outdoor set I can afford.

I am concerned that one of you posted that it had trouble going over switch tracks. I figure that, if I can create a roadbed that can accomadate this set, it will be a better line for more expensive ones.

Wow Marty has it really been that long since this thread started? good to see it back.

Capt C, Were you planning on using only New Bright plastic track or were you going to use brass track? If you were planning on plastic track then the New Bright stuff is all you will be able to run. If you were planning on brass track (brass track is more $$) then you might want to consider that by the time you spend and money spent to build up the roadbed and track to a good level you might as well upgrade to a good Bachmann engine and some cars. I had that "Coastal Express" set, thats the one that pulled like a Yugo with two cylinders missing and would spontaniously derail when ever it felt like it, the engine was very jerky, it basicly two speeds stop and go, with absolutely NOspeed control . The sound was unbeleivebly annoying and there was no volumn control or off switch. I was very dissapointed with it and would never recommend one.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Vsmith,

I am looking forward to getting started with great impatience. Have any suggestions on Bachmann Locos that are radio controlled?

[Anonymous]

Thanks Vsmith,

I am looking forward to getting started with great impatience. Have any suggestions on Bachmann Locos that are radio controlled?

[vsmith]

Capt C your question over on the other thread was...

Vsmith, Thanks for the welcome! I am a big debater in political forums and am glad that I found this one for one of my other hobbies. When you said that you "converted with great difficulty, all the couplers to Bachmann." What problems are you referring to? I am determined to make this work, albiet it may be a fool' s erand. My main goal is to produce a trackplan first, I fear I am using this set out of impatience.

I do plan to later get some converted batter power units or even use electrical sets. I have lots of experience in N scale, but have always wanted a garden railway.

A few questions: Is there any way to file down the flanges? Should I try? Would you suggest another inexpensive set I should explore?

Also thanks to Iandor for the imput. I may just buy the set for X-mas if think don'e work out.


Capt C ,

Are you going to use plastic Scientific or New Bright track or were you going to use brass track from LGB or Aristocraft? this is an important question. If its the plastic stuff then your going to be severly limited in what you can operate, with brass track and electric power its has much more opportunites.

The only "radio control" Bachmann sets were the very first "Big Hualers" from 10 years ago, they had D cell battery power and a radio controller similar to the "Coastal Express" set. They still turn up on e-bay from time to time. Otherwise everything is electric and track powered.

One alternative that I highly recommend is Aristocraft's "Basic Train Engineer" system which has a radio control regulator and a hand held control that fits inbetween the power pack and the track and controls the voltage going to the track. You can follow a train around or you dont have to be right next to the power pack to control the train. Very nice if your lounge chair is away from your powerpack.

As for the couplers, Hoy! were do I begin! I would suggest not doing anything to them. just use them with like cars. I had to add a shim then screw the new coupler down then CA glue around the coupler to the shim before I could get it to stay in place. Now i am planning to dump the Euro style axles all together and add Aristocraft archbar trucks. I did it before by adding a shim on top of the truck and using the same pivot point from the Euro-axle.

for a starter set it really depends on your budget, I've seen Bachmann starter sets go for as low as $50 to $75 on ebay, not bad! but the track is pure junk for outdoors. An Aristo or USA set can be had for $75 to $150, and LGB starter sets go from $75-4100 all the way to the moon!

I Like Backmann, but would recommend Aristo or LGB, Why? because you get GOOD track that will let you get started outdoors, a GOOD 1amp powerpack, B-manns is only 1/2 amp and not very good. Remember the trains are weatherproof, the powerpacks ARE NOT! Keep them protected.

Get your track plan together first, then save and buy one good locomotive or set, then add over time.

the best advice I can tell you is to be PATIENT, plan your layout, aquire your track, get a good starter loop doen enjoy that, then plan your expansion. I got a lot of stuff I ended up not needing because i too was impatient, so relax and enjoy.

[vsmith]

Capt C your question over on the other thread was...

Vsmith, Thanks for the welcome! I am a big debater in political forums and am glad that I found this one for one of my other hobbies. When you said that you "converted with great difficulty, all the couplers to Bachmann." What problems are you referring to? I am determined to make this work, albiet it may be a fool' s erand. My main goal is to produce a trackplan first, I fear I am using this set out of impatience.

I do plan to later get some converted batter power units or even use electrical sets. I have lots of experience in N scale, but have always wanted a garden railway.

A few questions: Is there any way to file down the flanges? Should I try? Would you suggest another inexpensive set I should explore?

Also thanks to Iandor for the imput. I may just buy the set for X-mas if think don'e work out.


Capt C ,

Are you going to use plastic Scientific or New Bright track or were you going to use brass track from LGB or Aristocraft? this is an important question. If its the plastic stuff then your going to be severly limited in what you can operate, with brass track and electric power its has much more opportunites.

The only "radio control" Bachmann sets were the very first "Big Hualers" from 10 years ago, they had D cell battery power and a radio controller similar to the "Coastal Express" set. They still turn up on e-bay from time to time. Otherwise everything is electric and track powered.

One alternative that I highly recommend is Aristocraft's "Basic Train Engineer" system which has a radio control regulator and a hand held control that fits inbetween the power pack and the track and controls the voltage going to the track. You can follow a train around or you dont have to be right next to the power pack to control the train. Very nice if your lounge chair is away from your powerpack.

As for the couplers, Hoy! were do I begin! I would suggest not doing anything to them. just use them with like cars. I had to add a shim then screw the new coupler down then CA glue around the coupler to the shim before I could get it to stay in place. Now i am planning to dump the Euro style axles all together and add Aristocraft archbar trucks. I did it before by adding a shim on top of the truck and using the same pivot point from the Euro-axle.

for a starter set it really depends on your budget, I've seen Bachmann starter sets go for as low as $50 to $75 on ebay, not bad! but the track is pure junk for outdoors. An Aristo or USA set can be had for $75 to $150, and LGB starter sets go from $75-4100 all the way to the moon!

I Like Backmann, but would recommend Aristo or LGB, Why? because you get GOOD track that will let you get started outdoors, a GOOD 1amp powerpack, B-manns is only 1/2 amp and not very good. Remember the trains are weatherproof, the powerpacks ARE NOT! Keep them protected.

Get your track plan together first, then save and buy one good locomotive or set, then add over time.

the best advice I can tell you is to be PATIENT, plan your layout, aquire your track, get a good starter loop doen enjoy that, then plan your expansion. I got a lot of stuff I ended up not needing because i too was impatient, so relax and enjoy.

[Anonymous]

I'm going to use brass track from Aristo; but, please pardon my ignorance, but what can be done with that plastic stuff you mention? Just for the sake of my personal knowledge?

[Anonymous]

I'm going to use brass track from Aristo; but, please pardon my ignorance, but what can be done with that plastic stuff you mention? Just for the sake of my personal knowledge?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Carrales

I'm going to use brass track from Aristo; but, please pardon my ignorance, but what can be done with that plastic stuff you mention? Just for the sake of my personal knowledge?

Hi
If it is sraights paint it to look something like realistic and load it on flat cars. or line your train shelfs with it.
so you trains sit on track when stored away no idea what to do with the curves paint it rust and use as an abandoned branch maybe.
regards john

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Carrales

I'm going to use brass track from Aristo; but, please pardon my ignorance, but what can be done with that plastic stuff you mention? Just for the sake of my personal knowledge?

Hi
If it is sraights paint it to look something like realistic and load it on flat cars. or line your train shelfs with it.
so you trains sit on track when stored away no idea what to do with the curves paint it rust and use as an abandoned branch maybe.
regards john

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Carrales

I'm going to use brass track from Aristo; but, please pardon my ignorance, but what can be done with that plastic stuff you mention? Just for the sake of my personal knowledge?

The best use for it as display track

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Carrales

I'm going to use brass track from Aristo; but, please pardon my ignorance, but what can be done with that plastic stuff you mention? Just for the sake of my personal knowledge?

The best use for it as display track

[bman36]

Hi there,
As the others said you can use it as display track. That or sell it off on ebay. I have seen the plastic track advertised there. Not worth much but better than throwing it out. Later eh...Brian.

[bman36]

Hi there,
As the others said you can use it as display track. That or sell it off on ebay. I have seen the plastic track advertised there. Not worth much but better than throwing it out. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

I cannot see the point in this entire area it is all so short term and labour intensive. I have an LGB MTS and it is really the only way. I have earned my living as a battery guru for many years and my advice is don't get involved with batteries for supplying motive powere unless you have too. While you have two very good conductors of electrocity in the rails your train runs on don't introduce batteries as a potential problem, unless you are masochist.

Well I'm back from holifays in Bali and I must say i'm glad to be back in good old Oz, I saw the Sari Club Bomb site, what a sad thing and the nearby memorial a sadder thing.


Regards. Ian; Kawana Island Tropical railway.

[Anonymous]

I cannot see the point in this entire area it is all so short term and labour intensive. I have an LGB MTS and it is really the only way. I have earned my living as a battery guru for many years and my advice is don't get involved with batteries for supplying motive powere unless you have too. While you have two very good conductors of electrocity in the rails your train runs on don't introduce batteries as a potential problem, unless you are masochist.

Well I'm back from holifays in Bali and I must say i'm glad to be back in good old Oz, I saw the Sari Club Bomb site, what a sad thing and the nearby memorial a sadder thing.


Regards. Ian; Kawana Island Tropical railway.

[Anonymous]

My last offering didn't seem to get too far.

Iandor

[Anonymous]

My last offering didn't seem to get too far.

Iandor

[Anonymous]

For a long time I owned an Echo 'Classic Rail' set and while the caboose used to get used a lot as a table ornament I would occasionally set it all up on the floor and play trains. I liked the fact that the loco steamed along nice and slowly and steadily even if the sound system did get to be a bit tedious after a while. If nothing else the Echo set sparked an interest in 'G' scale for me and I'm actually in process with quitting my '0' Gauge toy train collection because I now feel '0' is too small.
I have done the sensible thing and purchased a Bachman 10 wheeler, but I have also been scouring e.bay for New Bright locos and tenders. I can see that the fault with both New Bright and Echo locos is that they have to tow around 6 'C' cells in their tenders when they'd be better off with the battery weight centered over their driving wheels instead. I'm hoping that with some careful modification work I can convert these New Bright locos into reasonable 1:20.3 scale light axleweight locos for my proposed logging tramway. The problem I have is that I don't have much money to spend on my hobby, BUT I am very good at making things from scratch. Scratch is cheap, the only other thing that's needed is time. (and by 'scratch' I mean old fashioned 'scratch' where you make everything from raw materials not buy expensive piles of castings and fittings). The way I see it is that it's possible to buy a cheap loco and then make it a good one by spending time on it. Time I've got, money I haven't. Call me silly if you like, but I happen to enjoy my workbench time and if at the end of all my efforts I end up with something that's individual and unique it's very pleasing and rewarding.

Cheers,

LocoAnnie.

[Anonymous]

For a long time I owned an Echo 'Classic Rail' set and while the caboose used to get used a lot as a table ornament I would occasionally set it all up on the floor and play trains. I liked the fact that the loco steamed along nice and slowly and steadily even if the sound system did get to be a bit tedious after a while. If nothing else the Echo set sparked an interest in 'G' scale for me and I'm actually in process with quitting my '0' Gauge toy train collection because I now feel '0' is too small.
I have done the sensible thing and purchased a Bachman 10 wheeler, but I have also been scouring e.bay for New Bright locos and tenders. I can see that the fault with both New Bright and Echo locos is that they have to tow around 6 'C' cells in their tenders when they'd be better off with the battery weight centered over their driving wheels instead. I'm hoping that with some careful modification work I can convert these New Bright locos into reasonable 1:20.3 scale light axleweight locos for my proposed logging tramway. The problem I have is that I don't have much money to spend on my hobby, BUT I am very good at making things from scratch. Scratch is cheap, the only other thing that's needed is time. (and by 'scratch' I mean old fashioned 'scratch' where you make everything from raw materials not buy expensive piles of castings and fittings). The way I see it is that it's possible to buy a cheap loco and then make it a good one by spending time on it. Time I've got, money I haven't. Call me silly if you like, but I happen to enjoy my workbench time and if at the end of all my efforts I end up with something that's individual and unique it's very pleasing and rewarding.

Cheers,

LocoAnnie.

[Anonymous]

Wow! this is the second time in a few days that an old item from a year ago suddenly jumps back to the top!

Anyway, there is nothing wrong with scratch building. I also have a limited budget and do the same. However you want to make sure the chassis is a good runner first. You don't want to spend 100 hours building a nice loco, only to park it up because it doesn't run very well.

Did you know that most manufactures have listed spare parts. One of those is a "motor block" which will give you the wheels and motor all wired up ready to go. So when you build your nice body to go on top you will enjoy using it because it also runs well.
You can get a brand new Aristo 0-8-0 wheel and motor chasis for US$57 and diesel wheel blocks for less than that.
$57 will probably also buy you a lot of New Bright on ebay, but even after you put all the best bits together, it they probably won't run as well as the Aristo one.

My first ever loco was an atriso motor block, with a loco body built by me.

Just a thought.

Glen.

[Anonymous]

Wow! this is the second time in a few days that an old item from a year ago suddenly jumps back to the top!

Anyway, there is nothing wrong with scratch building. I also have a limited budget and do the same. However you want to make sure the chassis is a good runner first. You don't want to spend 100 hours building a nice loco, only to park it up because it doesn't run very well.

Did you know that most manufactures have listed spare parts. One of those is a "motor block" which will give you the wheels and motor all wired up ready to go. So when you build your nice body to go on top you will enjoy using it because it also runs well.
You can get a brand new Aristo 0-8-0 wheel and motor chasis for US$57 and diesel wheel blocks for less than that.
$57 will probably also buy you a lot of New Bright on ebay, but even after you put all the best bits together, it they probably won't run as well as the Aristo one.

My first ever loco was an atriso motor block, with a loco body built by me.

Just a thought.

Glen.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the advice Glen. By the way can you recommend a reliable dealer for motor blocks who doesn't mind shipping to New Zealand.

Annie

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the advice Glen. By the way can you recommend a reliable dealer for motor blocks who doesn't mind shipping to New Zealand.

Annie

[TurboOne]

Hello all,

yes I have newbright as my only G scale so far. And the track isn't down due to rain again. But it got me started in G, and a dash 9 or cab forward will become my real first train, just depends on cab forward price.

Tim

[TurboOne]

Hello all,

yes I have newbright as my only G scale so far. And the track isn't down due to rain again. But it got me started in G, and a dash 9 or cab forward will become my real first train, just depends on cab forward price.

Tim

[underworld]

LGB has several motorized wheel sets....just waiting for a scratch built body. And they aren't that expensive. I saw one at my LHS for about $35.

underworld

Easter Easter Easter Easter Easter!!!!!

[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

[underworld]

LGB has several motorized wheel sets....just waiting for a scratch built body. And they aren't that expensive. I saw one at my LHS for about $35.

underworld

Easter Easter Easter Easter Easter!!!!!

[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]