Newbi

[Anonymous]

Hello Gang,

Few days ago I decided t try an put together a small 8'X12' Garden Railway. I want to start small, I ordered a Bachman Starter Set, I was wondering if the track from these sets would be ok to use. I know very little about Garden Railroad construction but I'm sure I'll learn as I go. Biggest challenge I have is leveling ut a surface for the roadbed in my yard. Looking forward to getting started on this project, just waiting for my first train set to arrive. Stay Safe

Charlie

[Train 284]

First of all, welcome to the forums! [#welcome]

Never use Bachamnn track outdoors! It will rust faster than you can say "What the heck happened here!" It is mainly suited for indoor use. I highly recommend using Aristo Craft track. I use it and love it and it is reasonably priced.

Feel free to ask anymore questions! Everyone here is more than willing to help!

[Anonymous]

Thanks Matt,

I started surveying the yard yesterday, I'll have an area that will need a 22" fill for about 20 feet or so. It will be challenging but should be fun. I need to purchase the track first so I can layout the plan get the ground marked. Again, not doing anything huge, just wanted alil tatse of the rails in my yard. Matt hate to say this but.....Western Maryland Railway Rules!!!!Errr.... used to anyway. Stay Safe :)

Charlie Bury

[vsmith]

Hi there, welcome

8 x 12 eh? thats close to what I started with outside. Mine started at 5 x 9 then expanded to 9' x 17'.

Check out the link:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44503

It gives an idea of how simple the building process can be, though I don't have to deal with frost heave or cold weather ravages.

As for track, bachman track is strickly indoor track, dont use it outside unless you want to see it turn to rust before your eyes. AristoCraft / USA trains sells the most cost effective track to use for starting an outdoor layout. LGB track is probably the best brass track but its a little more expensive than A/C or USA. As for switches, if your planning any, use LBG only is my recommendation, I used A/C and had derailment troubles with my Bachmann Annie and different LGB engines. None with the LGBs.

Got a plan yet?

[Train 284]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CharlieBury
Matt hate to say this but.....Western Maryland Railway Rules!!!!Errr.... used to anyway.

Uh Oh! I think we are going to have some serious problems here! [:p] LOL just kidding! By the way, which Bachmann set did you order?

[Anonymous]

I must have been sleeping during my original post. I'm not starting with 8X12, I'm starting with 10'X24'. I ordered the bachman "Pennsylvanian," to start with. I have to fini***he "Honey do," List before I start my project. In my early days I was a hardcore Railfan until I joined the Army when i wa 17. I did 23years there currently I'm a Baltimore County Police Officer. My post has the CSX mainline running through it and I kinda got hooked again. I miss my train chasing days. since i have a large back yard I talked to the First Sgt (Wife) and she thought a GRR would be fun. Thanks for the info, I'm sure I'll have many more questions once construction begins. Stay Safe

Charlie

[Anonymous]

Sorry for Typo's..

[Anonymous]

This is the area I have to work with. You can see will require some stne work/walls and fill to level out.

[Anonymous]

One more showing the area I have to work with.

[Karl Reichenbach]

Charlie

Welcome to the hobby and the forum. While you are waiting on your starter set read everything you can on building a garden railroad. Try and see some garden railroads in your area. Ask questions from people that already have outdoor railroads. Find out what works for them. What works for them may or may not work for you.

You said your were a Baltimore County Police officer. Not far from your area there are 2 garden railways that are having open houses this weekend, Saturday 5/13/2006, In the Bel Air MD. area.
You can find information on the at www.gardenrropenhouse.com

There will be open houses in the area for the whole month of June. My railway will be open on June 3 & 4. I am located in Cecil County.

Above all have fun in the hobby.

Karl

[whiterab]

Charlie,

Since you are planning to fill the area, you may want to consider raising the entire layout a foot or so. A raised layout has several advantages. It is easier to work on the layout, easier to get cars on the track, solves a lot of drainage problems, keeps the critter intrusion down a bit and gives visitors a better view of your work.

It does cost you in the cost of fill dirt and muscle power, but it does have some great benefits. My first layout was at ground level but went with a raised layout for our "big" layout when we got serious. The difference is night and day on how easy the layout is to work on and view.

[piercedan]

Fill will settle a lot over the next 2-3 years.

Make sure you wet it down and tamp it good.

Doing this, it will still settle somewhat..

[Anonymous]

Came home today to find a very large box on my porch. I got pretty excited because I knew it was my first G-Scale Train Set. I got out f my uniform and tore open the box. I was somewhat disappointed when I took the train out f the box and pieces started falling off. I had to use some glue on the loose parts, no problem. I got everything hooked up and started her up. The engine ran very smooth and quiet. I then ran down to the store and picked up some batteries for the passenger cars and sound system. The cars looked pretty good. I couldn't wait to hear the sound. Turned everything on and NOTTA! No SOUND! Double checked all the connections and switches, still nothing! Looks like my very first day of garden Rail Roading wasn't very good, sure hope this isn't a sign of whats to come! I sent E-Mail to Bachmann asking how to go about getting my engine fixed or a new one.

Gotta admit the train looked cool running around my deck!!

[John Busby]

Hi charliebury
This is going to sound like a dumb question.
But here it is anyway Did you put a battery in the loco tender??
The Bachmann loco I have has a battery box in it for the sound the tender water filler cap is the lid to the battery box.
The cable from the tender must also be conected for the sound to work.
hope this helps.
regards John

[Anonymous]

Thanks John,

I double and triple checked the two switches and the battery. I got a reply from bachmann that said to mail the loco to them and they would fix it. Hopefully I'll have time this Saturday to get started on the track bed.

[John Busby]

Hi Charlie
Good to hear loco problem is under control.
From your pictures I wonder if you might be better having part of the railway at ground level and the rest elevated on some sort of raised plastic wood track bed.
Then once that is in and running building the garden after to avoid some of the setteling problems mentioned.
I know just the police station for your line
If I can get in the right spot for some pictures its a small iron building that sits on
a what to you would be a small 4wh railroad car
Second thoughts may be not you might concider that to much like taking work home
I have to try and get some picures of it and measurements of it any way.
just wi***he local museum had put it in a more convienient spot.
regards John

[Anonymous]

I f you have not started yet I would recomend that you use LGB track and R3 curves and points, I would recomend electric point control. I use the Crest train engr and accessories for controlling all my running

[Anonymous]

Charlie.... I'd think long and hard before I built my RR on the ground again. I'm committed on the ground--just too much track footage already in--and am already regretting it greatly after two years. The arguments for raising most or all of your track up off the ground are very compelling. I hurried to get started and didn't even consider a raised roadbed. It might not be very feasible in my very rocky ground anyway, but I wish I'd even considered it. I suggest you not skate past that decision too quickly or, worse, not even realize you're making a decision when you start. Once you're committed on the ground it will be difficult to change in the future. It will, I'm sure, take longer getting started, but you'll be happier, I believe, in the long run if you raise. Here's a link that will give you some ideas: http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/fence_posts/fence_posts.htm.

[Anonymous]

Charlie.... I'd think long and hard before I built my RR on the ground again. I'm committed on the ground--just too much track footage already in--and am already regretting it greatly after two years. The arguments for raising most or all of your track up off the ground are very compelling. I hurried to get started and didn't even consider a raised roadbed. It might not be very feasible in my very rocky ground anyway, but I wish I'd even considered it. I suggest you not skate past that decision too quickly or, worse, not even realize you're making a decision when you start. Once you're committed on the ground it will be difficult to change in the future. It will, I'm sure, take longer getting started, but you'll be happier, I believe, in the long run if you raise. Here's a link that will give you some ideas: http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/fence_posts/fence_posts.htm.

[Anonymous]

Charlie.... I'd think long and hard before I built my RR on the ground again. I'm committed on the ground--just too much track footage already in--and am already regretting it greatly after two years. The arguments for raising most or all of your track up off the ground are very compelling. I hurried to get started and didn't even consider a raised roadbed. I suggest you not skate past that decision too quickly or, worse, not even realize you're making a decision when you start. Once you're committed on the ground it will be difficult to change in the future. It will, I'm sure, take longer getting started, but you'll be happier, I believe, in the long run if you raise. Here's a link that will give you some ideas: http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/fence_posts/fence_posts.htm.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CharlieBury

Thanks Matt,

..Western Maryland Railway Rules!!!!Errr.... used to anyway. Stay Safe :)

Charlie Bury

Both my Grandfather and Great Grandfather were Station Masters in Elkins for the Western Maryland Railroad.

I have a frined that's a Balto-County Officer......he flies chopers..........
I have recently started my outdoor GRR. Used Turkey Grit (crushed granit) for ballast, bought it at Southern States for $8 for a 50lb bag. I used 3 bags and my layout is approximately 20 feet by 30 feet.

Good luck with your railroad.........

dan

[Anonymous]

I laid down some pavers this evening just to get an idea what I need to do. The ideal I have is to level out the roadbed area by digging a level trench. Fill the trench with sand and then lay the pavers inside. Once they are level, pour the chips gravel over the pavers, lay the track and the pour the fine chip (Chicken Grits) over the track and brush it in. The track layout will be simple just enough to enjoy a train with a cool garden and few buildings. It will be learn as I go because I have no clue how to level out the trench. The larger stones will be used for the raised area on the curve. I want to add an engine track and one or two sidings for storage.

[John Busby]

Hi Charlie
Hold on a minute!!!
From the pictures it looks like you are going to make the same mistake I made.
that mistake being to use first radius curves 4' diameter like comes in the sets.
go to at least an 8' diameter curve if you can that will allow a far greater range of locos and rollingstock to run on the line.
Better to get the largest diameter curves that will fit in the space from the start.
Rather than realise later you have to re build for that larger locomotive that you
really like and the Boss has said you can have for christmass[:D]
Also the larger curves are more pleasing to the eye and look better in the garden
you want the railway and the garden to blend together as a cohesive whole.
I see the Chief Engineer is keeping a close eye on the quality of the job
once used to the trains will just sit back in a comfortable spot and watch them.
regards John

[Anonymous]

Thanks John,

I will use wider radius curves, I havn't ordered the track yet just trying to get idea how to get a road bed in. I really can't start until I get the track. Thanks to all fr you help.

[tangerine-jack]

Good work Charlie! Looks like you are off to a great start. The only thing I can add is that when you dig your leveling trench, don't forget to put a liner of plastic or weed block material in there first. Otherwise your sand will slowly get sucked into the ground and you will be doing the job over again in a year.

Leveling the trench is a real pain in the posterior. I used an 8ft 2x4 and a 4ft level, and still had some dips when it was all done. You can use any number of methods from bubble levels to strings, but when you put down the first layer of paving stones, be prepared to make some corrections.

Your best bet is to put the sand down in the trench, then either wait for it to rain or fill the trench with water from the hose, this will instantly show you where the dips and bumps are as you just made a cheap, oops sorry, "thrifty" water level. Smooth the sand out until you no longer have standing water or sandy hills and that is about as good as it gets.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Thrifty water level! That's why when the artillery is shooting at square A-1 they hit H-27!

[tangerine-jack]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Bob Johnson

Thrifty water level! That's why when the artillery is shooting at square A-1 they hit H-27!

That's as may be, but I never liked H-27 anyway, and I've got plenty more ammo to lob in the direction of A-1. Must be why the military came up with the MLRS, also known as "grid smashers". Can't hit a small target? No problem! Sma***he entire square kilometer! Bound to hit something then.[swg]

[Anonymous]

Heck we use GPS now, It's easy to hit anything just call out your grid shoot an azmuith to bad guys and adjust fire! Easy!!!

[ttrigg]

Charlie

Welcome to the forum and to our hobby. On the subject of track, you will get as many different opinions as there are members of the forum. I chose to work with LGB "flex" track. The five foot long sections allow me to stagger the rail joints, both in curves and in the straight aways, which helps prevent derailments. Flex track also allows many choices of diameter for the curves, as you can bend it to fit the need (with a rail bender of course). I also like the way the LGB brass rail discolors in the weather. From shinny brass to a "warm toasty brown." I have used a few sections of Aristo Craft re-railers and they never did change color. After two years it was still a shiny yellow brass color. I've since started pulling the A/C track out of the re-railers and sliding in the LGB. LGB brass track is the most expensive, but I believe it is the most durable. When I work on the rock tunnel at my water fall, I slid 5 gallon buckets of rock along the rails. The larger rocks, 125~275 pounders, slid nicely along the track.

Above all else, remember that this is a hobby are hobbies are for fun. Get some track, and get into the dirt.

[Anonymous]

For the edification of those of us what ain't Southern boys, what is "Chicken grits"? [:D][:D] I've heard of havin' grits for breakfast, is this the dinner equivalent?

(Charlie, you'll also find a good sense of humor on the forum.)