G Scale home made track

[Anonymous]

Hi, Bob, Dean here. Can you and I talk about How I could build my own track, materials sources, techniques, etc?

QUOTE: Originally posted by fixitbpbbe

I am in the process of building track for our club layout. Am using both 250 and 332 rail. The club is Arizona Garden Railway Society. Based in Phoenix. My turnouts are #6.We use redwood for the ties to discourage termites. These are all live frog with micro switch for electrical routing. I even have a Y built on the end of our dual track staging trestle leading down to the layout around a 40 ft. daimeter helix. All of this track is code 250 hand laid with a 1.8 percent grade. It leads to a yard ladder custom build with 5 turnouts in a 12 ft length. My turnouts are an exact match for the new Aristo #6. The main lline is build from 332 rail both prefab and handlaid. We are keeping a minumim radius of 5 ft. Have some pix on club website www.azmodelrr.com

[Anonymous]

I'd like to know what the correct size rail is for: LGB (1:22.5 scale..Code 332.
Code 332 is .332" tall. I know LGB's is way too tall,scale-wise.

1:20.3 scale track,I 'm not sure what scale/code it goes with.Code 250 ? (1/4" Height). I think this size is more in scale than LGB provides in their sets.

I'm also aware that there's track available in Code 197...which I take to mean .197" tall. What's the scale that size corresponds with?

I have all LGB stuff right now,a starter set, plus I added a couple of wood hauling cars and a bunch of Code 332 track.

I'd still like to know the closest "Correct" scale rail for a scale between Code 332 and 1:20.3 scale.

Any thoughts?

[Anonymous]

I'd like to know what the correct size rail is for: LGB (1:22.5 scale..Code 332.
Code 332 is .332" tall. I know LGB's is way too tall,scale-wise.

1:20.3 scale track,I 'm not sure what scale/code it goes with.Code 250 ? (1/4" Height). I think this size is more in scale than LGB provides in their sets.

I'm also aware that there's track available in Code 197...which I take to mean .197" tall. What's the scale that size corresponds with?

I have all LGB stuff right now,a starter set, plus I added a couple of wood hauling cars and a bunch of Code 332 track.

I'd still like to know the closest "Correct" scale rail for a scale between Code 332 and 1:20.3 scale.

Any thoughts?

[Anonymous]

I am in the process of building track for our club layout. Am using both 250 and 332 rail. The club is Arizona Garden Railway Society. Based in Phoenix. My turnouts are #6.We use redwood for the ties to discourage termites. These are all live frog with micro switch for electrical routing. I even have a Y built on the end of our dual track staging trestle leading down to the layout around a 40 ft. daimeter helix. All of this track is code 250 hand laid with a 1.8 percent grade. It leads to a yard ladder custom build with 5 turnouts in a 12 ft length. My turnouts are an exact match for the new Aristo #6. The main lline is build from 332 rail both prefab and handlaid. We are keeping a minumim radius of 5 ft. Have some pix on club website www.azmodelrr.com

[Anonymous]

I am in the process of building track for our club layout. Am using both 250 and 332 rail. The club is Arizona Garden Railway Society. Based in Phoenix. My turnouts are #6.We use redwood for the ties to discourage termites. These are all live frog with micro switch for electrical routing. I even have a Y built on the end of our dual track staging trestle leading down to the layout around a 40 ft. daimeter helix. All of this track is code 250 hand laid with a 1.8 percent grade. It leads to a yard ladder custom build with 5 turnouts in a 12 ft length. My turnouts are an exact match for the new Aristo #6. The main lline is build from 332 rail both prefab and handlaid. We are keeping a minumim radius of 5 ft. Have some pix on club website www.azmodelrr.com

[Anonymous]

I'll have to admit that I have never seen rail of any kind in coils.

Either pre-fab sections of straight or defined curves, as an assembly with ties in place, OR...

Bulk rail which comes shipped in tubes, as straight rail, YOU put the ties on, (any way you want to, pre-fabbed or scratch,) and you use a rail bender to curve each rail to whatever radius, varied or otherwise, that suits your needs. (Which is what I do.)

[Anonymous]

I'll have to admit that I have never seen rail of any kind in coils.

Either pre-fab sections of straight or defined curves, as an assembly with ties in place, OR...

Bulk rail which comes shipped in tubes, as straight rail, YOU put the ties on, (any way you want to, pre-fabbed or scratch,) and you use a rail bender to curve each rail to whatever radius, varied or otherwise, that suits your needs. (Which is what I do.)

[Anonymous]

Hi M. Horovitz,

I would like the address of a supplier of Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail. I am in the same position as Kevin - lots of space for laying track, but would need to buy about $2000 worth of ready made to install my projected layout, plus overseas shipping costs. Possibly self built track would be less costly and shipping coils of brass rail (is it supplied in coils?) would also prove less costly than pre-built, to my Central American location. Prefabricating sleepers would be no problem, but spikes would be useful!

Alan E.

QUOTE: Originally posted by m.horovitz

Hi Kevin,

I make my own track. I cut the ties out of redwood and use Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail spiked down with Micro-Engineering spikes. My track is dual gauge (0 and 1), which makes building the switches kind of hairy, but it can be done. My railway has about 150' of mainline and eight switches, each designed and built for the space it occupies -- no two alike.

I wrote 4-part series on my trackbuilding methods that started in the December 1996 issue of GARDEN RAILWAYS. I believe the back issues are still available from Kalmbach.

[Anonymous]

Hi M. Horovitz,

I would like the address of a supplier of Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail. I am in the same position as Kevin - lots of space for laying track, but would need to buy about $2000 worth of ready made to install my projected layout, plus overseas shipping costs. Possibly self built track would be less costly and shipping coils of brass rail (is it supplied in coils?) would also prove less costly than pre-built, to my Central American location. Prefabricating sleepers would be no problem, but spikes would be useful!

Alan E.

QUOTE: Originally posted by m.horovitz

Hi Kevin,

I make my own track. I cut the ties out of redwood and use Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail spiked down with Micro-Engineering spikes. My track is dual gauge (0 and 1), which makes building the switches kind of hairy, but it can be done. My railway has about 150' of mainline and eight switches, each designed and built for the space it occupies -- no two alike.

I wrote 4-part series on my trackbuilding methods that started in the December 1996 issue of GARDEN RAILWAYS. I believe the back issues are still available from Kalmbach.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by m.horovitz

Hi Kevin,

I make my own track. I cut the ties out of redwood and use Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail spiked down with Micro-Engineering spikes. My track is dual gauge (0 and 1), which makes building the switches kind of hairy, but it can be done. My railway has about 150' of mainline and eight switches, each designed and built for the space it occupies -- no two alike.

I wrote 4-part series on my trackbuilding methods that started in the December 1996 issue of GARDEN RAILWAYS. I believe the back issues are still available from Kalmbach.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by m.horovitz

Hi Kevin,

I make my own track. I cut the ties out of redwood and use Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail spiked down with Micro-Engineering spikes. My track is dual gauge (0 and 1), which makes building the switches kind of hairy, but it can be done. My railway has about 150' of mainline and eight switches, each designed and built for the space it occupies -- no two alike.

I wrote 4-part series on my trackbuilding methods that started in the December 1996 issue of GARDEN RAILWAYS. I believe the back issues are still available from Kalmbach.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by m.horovitz

I make my own track. I cut the ties out of redwood and use Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail spiked down with Micro-Engineering spikes.

I wrote 4-part series on my trackbuilding methods that started in the December 1996 issue of GARDEN RAILWAYS. I believe the back issues are still available from Kalmbach.

I'd like to look into constructing my own track just like yours. Don't cha just hate copy-cats?[;)] Where can I get "Micro-Engineering Spikes"? ...and does Sunset Valley have a Web Site? Also, Does Kalmbach have a number for ordering that Dec/96 issue?

Thanks-o-ton. [:p] BTW nice magazine

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by m.horovitz

I make my own track. I cut the ties out of redwood and use Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail spiked down with Micro-Engineering spikes.

I wrote 4-part series on my trackbuilding methods that started in the December 1996 issue of GARDEN RAILWAYS. I believe the back issues are still available from Kalmbach.

I'd like to look into constructing my own track just like yours. Don't cha just hate copy-cats?[;)] Where can I get "Micro-Engineering Spikes"? ...and does Sunset Valley have a Web Site? Also, Does Kalmbach have a number for ordering that Dec/96 issue?

Thanks-o-ton. [:p] BTW nice magazine

[Rene Schweitzer]

Well, you'll have to ask the "boss" (aka Marc Horovitz) about an article! Marc is totally responsible for reading, selecting, and purchasing stuff that goes in the magazine. What I'd suggest is sending him an email with a description of what you're proposing. His email is: [e-mail]

Wish I could say more. [V] But send him a note. We'd never learn about some great ideas if it weren't for creative people like you.

[Rene Schweitzer]

Well, you'll have to ask the "boss" (aka Marc Horovitz) about an article! Marc is totally responsible for reading, selecting, and purchasing stuff that goes in the magazine. What I'd suggest is sending him an email with a description of what you're proposing. His email is: [e-mail]

Wish I could say more. [V] But send him a note. We'd never learn about some great ideas if it weren't for creative people like you.

[Anonymous]

Rene S

I'll go you one better...would Garden Railways be interested in a article about SPLINE roadbed and the method I use for building track on top of same?

Then I can share photos of our layout taken with an "old fashion" camera...make a little money...buy a digital camera...share photos on the web...what do you think Rene.

In antisapation...OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Rene S

I'll go you one better...would Garden Railways be interested in a article about SPLINE roadbed and the method I use for building track on top of same?

Then I can share photos of our layout taken with an "old fashion" camera...make a little money...buy a digital camera...share photos on the web...what do you think Rene.

In antisapation...OLD DAD

[Rene Schweitzer]

Old Dad,

Your method of track laying sounds interesting. I hope Santa brings you a digital camera! *g* I'm sorry we have no photo gallery here, but there are other freebie galleries on the web. I use Yahoo for posting photos, for instance. You can post photos elsewhere and link to them here.

[Rene Schweitzer]

Old Dad,

Your method of track laying sounds interesting. I hope Santa brings you a digital camera! *g* I'm sorry we have no photo gallery here, but there are other freebie galleries on the web. I use Yahoo for posting photos, for instance. You can post photos elsewhere and link to them here.

[Anonymous]

vettbass

Good luck with the steamer.... see you around this great website

Latter...OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

vettbass

Good luck with the steamer.... see you around this great website

Latter...OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

Sorry, there is no photo gallery on this site. We've brought it up before and one of Editor Horovitz's partners advised us of the difficulty they would have at this time in providing one.

Perhaps someday.

I'll look forward to seeing your layout next spring.

Yes we moved here recently from Hawaii where I had a layout down. Boxed it all up and brought it back to the mainland. We're still looking at properties as we rent for the time being. Can't get a new layout down until that's solved. In the meantime, I have a new Steam Kit mama bought me for my b'day that will keep me busy over the winter.

Regards,

LDH

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

Sorry, there is no photo gallery on this site. We've brought it up before and one of Editor Horovitz's partners advised us of the difficulty they would have at this time in providing one.

Perhaps someday.

I'll look forward to seeing your layout next spring.

Yes we moved here recently from Hawaii where I had a layout down. Boxed it all up and brought it back to the mainland. We're still looking at properties as we rent for the time being. Can't get a new layout down until that's solved. In the meantime, I have a new Steam Kit mama bought me for my b'day that will keep me busy over the winter.

Regards,

LDH

[Anonymous]

vettbass

I'd love to show you our layout but we don't have a scanner or a digital camera. I see that your in New Mexico, the southwest just happens to be the area were modeling our layout after (monument valley type of scenery). We have a water feature that runs through deep canyons of red brown and gray (cement) rock. Our scenery is built in the same way as indoor layouts only with 1/4 inch hardware cloth (wire screen) and morter cement and rock castings, so our mountains are hollow. Frost has killed off our annuals, we've had our first snowfall and it's only 20 degres so this is not a good time for new photos. Maybe we will have a digital camera by spring then I can share some photos of our layout. IS THERE A PHOTO GALLERY ON THIS WEBSITE?

May all your weeds be wild flowers...OLD DAD.

[Anonymous]

vettbass

I'd love to show you our layout but we don't have a scanner or a digital camera. I see that your in New Mexico, the southwest just happens to be the area were modeling our layout after (monument valley type of scenery). We have a water feature that runs through deep canyons of red brown and gray (cement) rock. Our scenery is built in the same way as indoor layouts only with 1/4 inch hardware cloth (wire screen) and morter cement and rock castings, so our mountains are hollow. Frost has killed off our annuals, we've had our first snowfall and it's only 20 degres so this is not a good time for new photos. Maybe we will have a digital camera by spring then I can share some photos of our layout. IS THERE A PHOTO GALLERY ON THIS WEBSITE?

May all your weeds be wild flowers...OLD DAD.

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

I'd love to see some of your stuff. So far, I'm just rail-bending with store bought ties on red lava crusher fine ballast.

[Anonymous]

OLD DAD:

I'd love to see some of your stuff. So far, I'm just rail-bending with store bought ties on red lava crusher fine ballast.

[Anonymous]

Building your own track is not a lot of WORK but it is time consuming, I enjoy this part of the hobby. My track is built on SPLINE roadbed made of "TREX" ( www.trex.com ) I also cut my ties out of redwood boards and use Old Pullman code-197 nickel silver rail and Old Pullman stainless steel spikes plus Old Pullman stainless steel rail joiners. My spline roadbed has enough flex so that expansion and contraction are NEVER a problem and temperature extremes in Minnesota can go as high as +110 to a low of -35 degrees. All my track and turnouts have been built INPLACE so weather has been a consideration whenever I want to add more track.

May All Your Weeds Be Wild Flowers... OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Building your own track is not a lot of WORK but it is time consuming, I enjoy this part of the hobby. My track is built on SPLINE roadbed made of "TREX" ( www.trex.com ) I also cut my ties out of redwood boards and use Old Pullman code-197 nickel silver rail and Old Pullman stainless steel spikes plus Old Pullman stainless steel rail joiners. My spline roadbed has enough flex so that expansion and contraction are NEVER a problem and temperature extremes in Minnesota can go as high as +110 to a low of -35 degrees. All my track and turnouts have been built INPLACE so weather has been a consideration whenever I want to add more track.

May All Your Weeds Be Wild Flowers... OLD DAD

[m.horovitz]

Hi Kevin,

I make my own track. I cut the ties out of redwood and use Sunset Valley code-250 brass rail spiked down with Micro-Engineering spikes. My track is dual gauge (0 and 1), which makes building the switches kind of hairy, but it can be done. My railway has about 150' of mainline and eight switches, each designed and built for the space it occupies -- no two alike.

I wrote 4-part series on my trackbuilding methods that started in the December 1996 issue of GARDEN RAILWAYS. I believe the back issues are still available from Kalmbach.