wet behind the ears- beginner

[Anonymous]

I am so new at this it is scary. I just picked up myfirst train mag last night. I just wanted to build a small railway around my pond and now feel overwhelmed. I need a place to star. Do I buy the train first, the track or what. I live in Peterborough Ontario Canada. Needless to say we have snow in the winter months. Will this affect the track etc.

tom

[Anonymous]

I am so new at this it is scary. I just picked up myfirst train mag last night. I just wanted to build a small railway around my pond and now feel overwhelmed. I need a place to star. Do I buy the train first, the track or what. I live in Peterborough Ontario Canada. Needless to say we have snow in the winter months. Will this affect the track etc.

tom

[stanleyriegel]

Congratulations at being bitten by the bug. I have been involved with G scale for a few years but still do not have anything in the garden. However, I belong to the Rocky Mountain Garden Railroaders in Calgary where several members have track in their yard year round. In the winter it is possible to use a snow plow to clear track and run on the warmer days. To prevent frost heaving, drainage is very important. There are a number of different methods of putting down track which you can research to decide which is best for you. As for which comes first, a train or track- for me, beginning with a starter set allowed me to get hands on right away. It will whet your appetite for what else needs to happen. Garden Railways magazine has a list of local clubs which may direct you to someone in your area. Again, welcome to the hobby, it will provide you with years of enjoyment. Stanley

[stanleyriegel]

Congratulations at being bitten by the bug. I have been involved with G scale for a few years but still do not have anything in the garden. However, I belong to the Rocky Mountain Garden Railroaders in Calgary where several members have track in their yard year round. In the winter it is possible to use a snow plow to clear track and run on the warmer days. To prevent frost heaving, drainage is very important. There are a number of different methods of putting down track which you can research to decide which is best for you. As for which comes first, a train or track- for me, beginning with a starter set allowed me to get hands on right away. It will whet your appetite for what else needs to happen. Garden Railways magazine has a list of local clubs which may direct you to someone in your area. Again, welcome to the hobby, it will provide you with years of enjoyment. Stanley

[Anonymous]

First time on the site...like others a newcomer. Am about to swap from HO which never got started to Garden which will get started. Have a small property..19 acres in SW Western Australia...getting close to retirement and this is to be a toy for me. Plan to purchase LGB Kit 74255 as a starter and have allocated 1/2 acre to landscape and track and then watch the track grows.... and the bank account diminish. My wife is supportive so here goes. Would welcome any input or suggestions.

[Anonymous]

First time on the site...like others a newcomer. Am about to swap from HO which never got started to Garden which will get started. Have a small property..19 acres in SW Western Australia...getting close to retirement and this is to be a toy for me. Plan to purchase LGB Kit 74255 as a starter and have allocated 1/2 acre to landscape and track and then watch the track grows.... and the bank account diminish. My wife is supportive so here goes. Would welcome any input or suggestions.

[Anonymous]

Welcome to Garden railroading. A lot of people get started in G scale after getting a trainset that runs for the holidays. Then they do some serious studying and really get into it. I agree that Garden Railways is a good source of information and covers a lot about the hobby, but Kevin, there's an outstanding modeler in OZ (his name for downunder) that is a main contributor to MyLargeScale.com on the Internet. Go onto the Net and look him up and get some good sources for finding what you'll need and be happy with.
Enjoy your trains! Scotty

[Anonymous]

Welcome to Garden railroading. A lot of people get started in G scale after getting a trainset that runs for the holidays. Then they do some serious studying and really get into it. I agree that Garden Railways is a good source of information and covers a lot about the hobby, but Kevin, there's an outstanding modeler in OZ (his name for downunder) that is a main contributor to MyLargeScale.com on the Internet. Go onto the Net and look him up and get some good sources for finding what you'll need and be happy with.
Enjoy your trains! Scotty

[vsmith]

Pastor Tom, Some suggestions, to start you can just place a simple oval or circle around your pond right onto what ever surface you have. it would be easier to give you some more advice but not knowing whats next to your pond makes it tough to suggest things. I would get a starter set, LGB,Aristo-Craft, USA set will allow you to use the track provided with it to begin your layout. Bachmann tracks are indoor use only and lousy quality, the trains are ok for outdoor. But just laying it down (not on Grass though) gives you an idea of what it looks and what future posibilties are. you can always ballast the track later and the expand it as the mood strikes you. try to avoid power switches unless you are a qualified outdoor electrician, use manuals. and for power just use the one that comes with the set, just make sure you bring in the powerpack after your finished, and just have fun with it. The 1st rule of garden RR is there are NO rules, what ever strikes your fancy is A-OK.

[vsmith]

Pastor Tom, Some suggestions, to start you can just place a simple oval or circle around your pond right onto what ever surface you have. it would be easier to give you some more advice but not knowing whats next to your pond makes it tough to suggest things. I would get a starter set, LGB,Aristo-Craft, USA set will allow you to use the track provided with it to begin your layout. Bachmann tracks are indoor use only and lousy quality, the trains are ok for outdoor. But just laying it down (not on Grass though) gives you an idea of what it looks and what future posibilties are. you can always ballast the track later and the expand it as the mood strikes you. try to avoid power switches unless you are a qualified outdoor electrician, use manuals. and for power just use the one that comes with the set, just make sure you bring in the powerpack after your finished, and just have fun with it. The 1st rule of garden RR is there are NO rules, what ever strikes your fancy is A-OK.

[Anonymous]

Good Luck Pastor Tom! As stated by some of the others ,Garden Railways magazine is a good place to get a start. Buy enough decent track to build an oval, (Aristo Craft or LGB are good) along with a simple, economical starter set of trains. Again, use Garden Railways for some comparison shopping and also to make contact with the different manufacturers web sites. Finally, may I suggest the book "Beginners Guide to Large Scale Model Railroading" by Marc Horovitz and Russ Larson. This is a Kalmbach publication and should be the first reference guide to this hobby. Again, have fun andGood Luck!

[Anonymous]

Good Luck Pastor Tom! As stated by some of the others ,Garden Railways magazine is a good place to get a start. Buy enough decent track to build an oval, (Aristo Craft or LGB are good) along with a simple, economical starter set of trains. Again, use Garden Railways for some comparison shopping and also to make contact with the different manufacturers web sites. Finally, may I suggest the book "Beginners Guide to Large Scale Model Railroading" by Marc Horovitz and Russ Larson. This is a Kalmbach publication and should be the first reference guide to this hobby. Again, have fun andGood Luck!

[Anonymous]

Hello Pastor Tom and welcome to Garden Railroading! It is truly a wonderful hobby and is composed of some fantastic people. You'll get lots of opinions, nearly all of which are good, but very different. There are a huge number of options, none of which you will know is right until you try it. The good news is that nearly none of the options is wrong either.

I'll give you my experiences and opinions. I have had a G-scale train since about 1981, but it only ran around the Christmas tree until two years ago when my wife and I decided to re-landscape and put it outside. I live in Michigan, so we probably share some similar weather patterns.

1. Link up with any local garden railroad club. Having people to talk to, question and share ideas is great.

2. Subscribe to Garden Railways. It's a great magazine and very helpful to advanced and beginner alike.

3. Check out www.mylargescale.com and www.largescaleonline.com. They are both good websites (largescaleonline requires a subscription to enter the forums) and have forums where everyone will try to help you. We are the fastest growing of all model railroading, so there are lots of questions from newcomers. Don't worry if your question might sound stupid. We've all been there and want to help.

4. As a beginner, I would recommend buying sectional track (it comes in presri bed curves and lengths). The other two options are flexible track (it allows more flexibility in your design - no pun intended - but is a little trickier to lay) and hand-laid track (just what you think it is - leave it to the pros for now). The two to choices and the easiest to find in hobby stores or on the internet are LGB and Aristo-Craft. They are both very good and will stand up to the weather outside all year round. LGB track, in my opinion, looks best with old steam and narrow gauge trains because its tie-to-tie spacing is wider. Aristo-Craft track , in my opinion, looks best with more modern locos or standard gauge track because its tie-to-tie spacing narrower. The advantage to Aristo is that it has positive attachment via screws between each track section, thereby ensuring positive electrical contact. LGB track slides together like most people are used to. In the garden, the tracks need good conductivity, so if you use LGB, purchase Hillman Railclamps or Split-Rail Clamps. It adds to the cost, but they work great. Look at the two types of track at your hobby store, place an engine on them and then decide which looks better to you. They will both weather outside and will lose their bright patina.

5. Start out with a somewhat simple layout, such as an oval, dogbone or modified dogbone. I would avoid figure-8's. I recommend at least one passing siding so you have a place to park some traincars. Allow for some expansion space if you want to add more track. Try to use the largest curves you can handle. Sectional track commonly comes in 2', 4' and 5' radius. Avoid 2' at all costs -- it looks a little strange and toylike and will limit your choice of future locomotives. Try to go 5' if you can. Eyeball you property from different locations and try to lay out a course that is not entirely visible from all spots. Most people find that the railroad looks better if the viewer has to move to different spots to see it all. A sense of mystery to where the train goes is good. Otherwise you have the God's eye view which is not natural. You can accompli***his with the use of curves, buildings, plants, tunnels, cuts (slices through hills), bridges and trestles.

6. Remember that your train can only do what a real train can do. You will need to keep your grade in mind. Grade is the percent climb or descent of your track. The more mild the grade, the more realistic and the more traincars your loco can pull. Most people recommend 2-4% with a cap at 5%. A 4% grade means for every 50' of length, the train climbs 2'. Keep this in mind while you eyeball your property. However, don't let your property limit you. If you have a hill, make a cut or a tunnel. If you have a dip or ravine, add a fill, culvert, trestle or bridge.

7. You should place your track on some sort of bed (concrete, pressure treated lumber, ballast, etc.). I have had great luck with ballast. I also think it is very easy to install and looks very natural. Everywhere that the track is not mounted on a bridge or trestle, I dug a trench about 6" wide and 3-6" deep. I filled this trench with small stones. Every region has their own name for the stones. In my area they are called 31AA. They are also called crusher fines and 1/4 fines. The ideal ballast (pretty much to scale) is chicken grit, but most of it is made from bright white granite (I think a little gauche for a garden railroad). The crusher fines are bigger in size, but are a very natural color made of mixed browns, tans, ochres, etc. It blends nicely in a garden. Do not use pea gravel! These round stones do not bind together like the sharp edged crusher fines and grit, so they don't work very well as ballast. I don't use a week barrier or any lining -- the weeds haven't grown in the stones in two years. Once your stone is in, walk on it or tamp it down. Then lay your track on it and pour more stones in between the ties. Tamp these down with a 2x4. Water all the stone down to help it settle, plus the stone dust acts as a mild concrete base. Then, once dry, bru***he stones away from the rails with a paint brush.

8. You will need to chose a power method. The easiest and most common is track power. Connect your power pack to the track and let 'er rip. If you have more than 50' or 100' feet of track, most people recommend connecting the power pack at multiple locations to compensate for any electrical resistance. I recommend running outdoor lighting wire either under the ballast or in a trench next to the track. Make a few connections to the track, every 50' or so and also run a few extra wire alongside for future building lights, etc. I suggest a small conduit buried under the lawn from one location near the track to a spot near your electrical outlet. That way you can have all of your track and lighting wires converge on one spot and plug into your power pack which will need to be near the outlet.

9. There are lots of power packs available. Invest in one that gives you wireless "walk around" control. I guarantee you will want to wander in your garden and follow your train. I also guarantee that you will want power control at your fingertips wherever you are. Walk around will give you that capability. I use MRC's Controlmaster 20 with Remote Control Systems remote control. I also know the Crest and Bridgewerks are popular systems. LGB power packs are good, but very expensive.

10. If you haven't chosen trains yet, starter sets are good, but I would suggest buying everything separately (i.e. loco, cars, track and powerpacks). The starter sets do not have the track radius I would recommend and the power pack will limit you. Check out your local hobby store or scan through Garden Railways magazine. St. Aubin Station, Trainworld, Lantz's offer good products at competitive prices with fast delivery. It's a good idea to stay with one brand starting out to ensure the couplers all work together. All trains will run on the same track, but not all couplers work well together. That can be remedied later.

You will get lots of opinions on rolling stock. LGB is great quality with high prices. I like Bachmann Spectrum series because I model 1920's & 30's, the quality is good and the prices are very good. Although not quite Spectrum detail level, a good starter engine is Bachmann's anniversary 4-6-0 ($150). Make sure it is the anniversary version which is much better detailed than their normal 4-6-0. Aristo and USA Trains also make great engines, much more towards modern diesel-electrics and Golden Age of Steam.

This is a small point (also not to overwhelm you), but try to buy rolling stock with steel wheels or buy steel wheels for them and change them out yourself. Steel wheels work much better on your track and don't leave crud on the rails, particularly during the hot summers.

I hope all of this is not overwhelming. None of the above items are difficult or complicated, they only sound so. Basically, buy a train, pick a track, get a shovel and some stone and go to it. The trains are pretty forgiving.

[Anonymous]

Hello Pastor Tom and welcome to Garden Railroading! It is truly a wonderful hobby and is composed of some fantastic people. You'll get lots of opinions, nearly all of which are good, but very different. There are a huge number of options, none of which you will know is right until you try it. The good news is that nearly none of the options is wrong either.

I'll give you my experiences and opinions. I have had a G-scale train since about 1981, but it only ran around the Christmas tree until two years ago when my wife and I decided to re-landscape and put it outside. I live in Michigan, so we probably share some similar weather patterns.

1. Link up with any local garden railroad club. Having people to talk to, question and share ideas is great.

2. Subscribe to Garden Railways. It's a great magazine and very helpful to advanced and beginner alike.

3. Check out www.mylargescale.com and www.largescaleonline.com. They are both good websites (largescaleonline requires a subscription to enter the forums) and have forums where everyone will try to help you. We are the fastest growing of all model railroading, so there are lots of questions from newcomers. Don't worry if your question might sound stupid. We've all been there and want to help.

4. As a beginner, I would recommend buying sectional track (it comes in presri bed curves and lengths). The other two options are flexible track (it allows more flexibility in your design - no pun intended - but is a little trickier to lay) and hand-laid track (just what you think it is - leave it to the pros for now). The two to choices and the easiest to find in hobby stores or on the internet are LGB and Aristo-Craft. They are both very good and will stand up to the weather outside all year round. LGB track, in my opinion, looks best with old steam and narrow gauge trains because its tie-to-tie spacing is wider. Aristo-Craft track , in my opinion, looks best with more modern locos or standard gauge track because its tie-to-tie spacing narrower. The advantage to Aristo is that it has positive attachment via screws between each track section, thereby ensuring positive electrical contact. LGB track slides together like most people are used to. In the garden, the tracks need good conductivity, so if you use LGB, purchase Hillman Railclamps or Split-Rail Clamps. It adds to the cost, but they work great. Look at the two types of track at your hobby store, place an engine on them and then decide which looks better to you. They will both weather outside and will lose their bright patina.

5. Start out with a somewhat simple layout, such as an oval, dogbone or modified dogbone. I would avoid figure-8's. I recommend at least one passing siding so you have a place to park some traincars. Allow for some expansion space if you want to add more track. Try to use the largest curves you can handle. Sectional track commonly comes in 2', 4' and 5' radius. Avoid 2' at all costs -- it looks a little strange and toylike and will limit your choice of future locomotives. Try to go 5' if you can. Eyeball you property from different locations and try to lay out a course that is not entirely visible from all spots. Most people find that the railroad looks better if the viewer has to move to different spots to see it all. A sense of mystery to where the train goes is good. Otherwise you have the God's eye view which is not natural. You can accompli***his with the use of curves, buildings, plants, tunnels, cuts (slices through hills), bridges and trestles.

6. Remember that your train can only do what a real train can do. You will need to keep your grade in mind. Grade is the percent climb or descent of your track. The more mild the grade, the more realistic and the more traincars your loco can pull. Most people recommend 2-4% with a cap at 5%. A 4% grade means for every 50' of length, the train climbs 2'. Keep this in mind while you eyeball your property. However, don't let your property limit you. If you have a hill, make a cut or a tunnel. If you have a dip or ravine, add a fill, culvert, trestle or bridge.

7. You should place your track on some sort of bed (concrete, pressure treated lumber, ballast, etc.). I have had great luck with ballast. I also think it is very easy to install and looks very natural. Everywhere that the track is not mounted on a bridge or trestle, I dug a trench about 6" wide and 3-6" deep. I filled this trench with small stones. Every region has their own name for the stones. In my area they are called 31AA. They are also called crusher fines and 1/4 fines. The ideal ballast (pretty much to scale) is chicken grit, but most of it is made from bright white granite (I think a little gauche for a garden railroad). The crusher fines are bigger in size, but are a very natural color made of mixed browns, tans, ochres, etc. It blends nicely in a garden. Do not use pea gravel! These round stones do not bind together like the sharp edged crusher fines and grit, so they don't work very well as ballast. I don't use a week barrier or any lining -- the weeds haven't grown in the stones in two years. Once your stone is in, walk on it or tamp it down. Then lay your track on it and pour more stones in between the ties. Tamp these down with a 2x4. Water all the stone down to help it settle, plus the stone dust acts as a mild concrete base. Then, once dry, bru***he stones away from the rails with a paint brush.

8. You will need to chose a power method. The easiest and most common is track power. Connect your power pack to the track and let 'er rip. If you have more than 50' or 100' feet of track, most people recommend connecting the power pack at multiple locations to compensate for any electrical resistance. I recommend running outdoor lighting wire either under the ballast or in a trench next to the track. Make a few connections to the track, every 50' or so and also run a few extra wire alongside for future building lights, etc. I suggest a small conduit buried under the lawn from one location near the track to a spot near your electrical outlet. That way you can have all of your track and lighting wires converge on one spot and plug into your power pack which will need to be near the outlet.

9. There are lots of power packs available. Invest in one that gives you wireless "walk around" control. I guarantee you will want to wander in your garden and follow your train. I also guarantee that you will want power control at your fingertips wherever you are. Walk around will give you that capability. I use MRC's Controlmaster 20 with Remote Control Systems remote control. I also know the Crest and Bridgewerks are popular systems. LGB power packs are good, but very expensive.

10. If you haven't chosen trains yet, starter sets are good, but I would suggest buying everything separately (i.e. loco, cars, track and powerpacks). The starter sets do not have the track radius I would recommend and the power pack will limit you. Check out your local hobby store or scan through Garden Railways magazine. St. Aubin Station, Trainworld, Lantz's offer good products at competitive prices with fast delivery. It's a good idea to stay with one brand starting out to ensure the couplers all work together. All trains will run on the same track, but not all couplers work well together. That can be remedied later.

You will get lots of opinions on rolling stock. LGB is great quality with high prices. I like Bachmann Spectrum series because I model 1920's & 30's, the quality is good and the prices are very good. Although not quite Spectrum detail level, a good starter engine is Bachmann's anniversary 4-6-0 ($150). Make sure it is the anniversary version which is much better detailed than their normal 4-6-0. Aristo and USA Trains also make great engines, much more towards modern diesel-electrics and Golden Age of Steam.

This is a small point (also not to overwhelm you), but try to buy rolling stock with steel wheels or buy steel wheels for them and change them out yourself. Steel wheels work much better on your track and don't leave crud on the rails, particularly during the hot summers.

I hope all of this is not overwhelming. None of the above items are difficult or complicated, they only sound so. Basically, buy a train, pick a track, get a shovel and some stone and go to it. The trains are pretty forgiving.

[Rene Schweitzer]

Wow, everyone has already given you some great places to start. I just want to add that if you can find some garden railroads in your area, please visit them. It will give you an idea of what can be accomplished, and oftentimes the owners are more than willing to share their experiences. I know there are clubs in Canada, and I don't know how far you are from the Hockley Valley Railroad in Orangeville, but it's a great one, and David Goodhue is a nice guy. www.hvrr.on.ca

Rene

[Rene Schweitzer]

Wow, everyone has already given you some great places to start. I just want to add that if you can find some garden railroads in your area, please visit them. It will give you an idea of what can be accomplished, and oftentimes the owners are more than willing to share their experiences. I know there are clubs in Canada, and I don't know how far you are from the Hockley Valley Railroad in Orangeville, but it's a great one, and David Goodhue is a nice guy. www.hvrr.on.ca

Rene

[IvanFraser]

Hello Pastor Tom. We live in Bolton, ON so are close to Burlington. We are also new. Have two trains and some track , but none installed yet. We jopined the Central Ontario Garden Railway Association and have found the members extremely helpful, the open houses a great source of ideas and the social aspect is fun. There are some members realatively close to your area. Membership is very reasonable at $25 per year per family. The contact to join is Ross Webster, RR # 3, Georgetown, ON, L7G 4S6.
Hockley Valley railroad is a good place. The current owner is Dave Hails - also a great guy. Unfortunately he is moving to BC and the business is again for sale. The HVRR web site is www.hvrr.ca
Oh yes. It sounds like you are ahead of us as we plan on installing the lake, river, waterfall, mountains and hills next year . With luck a train before the snow.
Ivan

[IvanFraser]

Hello Pastor Tom. We live in Bolton, ON so are close to Burlington. We are also new. Have two trains and some track , but none installed yet. We jopined the Central Ontario Garden Railway Association and have found the members extremely helpful, the open houses a great source of ideas and the social aspect is fun. There are some members realatively close to your area. Membership is very reasonable at $25 per year per family. The contact to join is Ross Webster, RR # 3, Georgetown, ON, L7G 4S6.
Hockley Valley railroad is a good place. The current owner is Dave Hails - also a great guy. Unfortunately he is moving to BC and the business is again for sale. The HVRR web site is www.hvrr.ca
Oh yes. It sounds like you are ahead of us as we plan on installing the lake, river, waterfall, mountains and hills next year . With luck a train before the snow.
Ivan

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by KevinGraham

First time on the site...like others a newcomer. Am about to swap from HO which never got started to Garden which will get started. Have a small property..19 acres in SW Western Australia...getting close to retirement and this is to be a toy for me. Plan to purchase LGB Kit 74255 as a starter and have allocated 1/2 acre to landscape and track and then watch the track grows.... and the bank account diminish. My wife is supportive so here goes. Would welcome any input or suggestions.

I'm new too. Found this forum yesterday. Looks like there are a lot of folks in Garden RR down under. I suspect there are clubs. That's the best way I know to get started. I suggest trying to have your wife be active in the hobby. I'm a woman model railroader and have been volunteer at 1:1 railroad museum. Many women enjoy this hobby. A lot of them are involved in garden railroads. Some only for the garden, which is a big help, but many others take a big interest in the railroad portion. If she is interested in history you have a good start already. If she does crafting or sewing she has skills that could be expanded to use on the railroad. Look for garden railroads to visit or shows/conventions to attend.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by KevinGraham

First time on the site...like others a newcomer. Am about to swap from HO which never got started to Garden which will get started. Have a small property..19 acres in SW Western Australia...getting close to retirement and this is to be a toy for me. Plan to purchase LGB Kit 74255 as a starter and have allocated 1/2 acre to landscape and track and then watch the track grows.... and the bank account diminish. My wife is supportive so here goes. Would welcome any input or suggestions.

I'm new too. Found this forum yesterday. Looks like there are a lot of folks in Garden RR down under. I suspect there are clubs. That's the best way I know to get started. I suggest trying to have your wife be active in the hobby. I'm a woman model railroader and have been volunteer at 1:1 railroad museum. Many women enjoy this hobby. A lot of them are involved in garden railroads. Some only for the garden, which is a big help, but many others take a big interest in the railroad portion. If she is interested in history you have a good start already. If she does crafting or sewing she has skills that could be expanded to use on the railroad. Look for garden railroads to visit or shows/conventions to attend.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mlundquist


I'll give you my experiences and opinions.

Hope you don't mind if I piggyback on another newby's request. Your response will really help me. I did the cut & paste thing into a document so I can refer to it in the future. Most of RR is in boxes but I have set up a loop with a couple sidings on my 30X40 front porch. Had to have something to run until house is done enough that I feel OK about working on garden RR. House is above a walk out basement so porch is 10 feet above ground. Only problem so far has been nosey raccoons visiting during the night. After that I always bring trains into house overnight. I may put up flashing around support posts to stop that problem.
I may pick you brain later for help building my pike. Thanks.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mlundquist


I'll give you my experiences and opinions.

Hope you don't mind if I piggyback on another newby's request. Your response will really help me. I did the cut & paste thing into a document so I can refer to it in the future. Most of RR is in boxes but I have set up a loop with a couple sidings on my 30X40 front porch. Had to have something to run until house is done enough that I feel OK about working on garden RR. House is above a walk out basement so porch is 10 feet above ground. Only problem so far has been nosey raccoons visiting during the night. After that I always bring trains into house overnight. I may put up flashing around support posts to stop that problem.
I may pick you brain later for help building my pike. Thanks.

[spjrr]

Tom,
The most improtant already mentioned thing is if there is a club in your area, that is a great way to learn. Learn is the important thing here...so many start buying stuff to early and find out later they should have waited. Relax and learn from the others. If you are close to the New York area, there is a lot of garden railroading happening there and you could join a club there to see what is going on .

[spjrr]

Tom,
The most improtant already mentioned thing is if there is a club in your area, that is a great way to learn. Learn is the important thing here...so many start buying stuff to early and find out later they should have waited. Relax and learn from the others. If you are close to the New York area, there is a lot of garden railroading happening there and you could join a club there to see what is going on .

[Anonymous]

Hello Everyone

My name is John and I live just outside Los Angeles. I'm brand new to garden RR, but not new to model RRs. I have been in and out of HO for 25 years. Amazingly, if you had asked me one week ago if I was interested in garden RR, I would have said no. I have seen some shows on HGTV about garden RR, and it looked pretty nice, but I thought it was out of my reach. Anyway, here is what happened. My wife and I were in a second hand store, and I found a plastic bag full of large scale train equipment for $13 in the toy section. I knew practically nothing about G scale equipment, and researched it here on the internet. What I discovered was that I had an early Bachman 4-6-0 starter set, battery & RC controlled.
I had illusions of upgrading the loco, but after cleaning it up and running it, I found it performed poorly, just like everyone said it would on the net and it had plastic wheels and detailing which looked too fake. I found a guy in Las Vegas who had an upgrade kit but for the cost I could buy a brand new loco. The second hand rolling stock (3 cars) are in good shape and considering new ones are $25-$75$ each, I'd say I came out ahead. I added some metal wheels ($11) on one car and plan to do the same to the others. The real killer in expense is the track. I learn fast., and after talking to some people and studying the farden RR beginners book by Kalmbach, I went out bought about 100 feet of USA track after surveying and measuring my yard and a Bachman Anniversary edition 4-6-0 loco, which is by far the best deal. The Spectrums are nice but twice as expensive, and I did'nt think it was worth the extra cost.
Eventually, I'm going to convert the loco to full RC.
Right now I am stumped, because I have some permanent landscaped plants, that I can't move where I need to lay the track, between them and a fence, but the roots are near the surface so I cannot dig a trench to put in the crusher fine ballast.

Any suggestions on how to lay the track, if you can't dig a trench to put in the ballast?
I don't want to just lay the track in the dirt.

Thanks
John

[Anonymous]

Hello Everyone

My name is John and I live just outside Los Angeles. I'm brand new to garden RR, but not new to model RRs. I have been in and out of HO for 25 years. Amazingly, if you had asked me one week ago if I was interested in garden RR, I would have said no. I have seen some shows on HGTV about garden RR, and it looked pretty nice, but I thought it was out of my reach. Anyway, here is what happened. My wife and I were in a second hand store, and I found a plastic bag full of large scale train equipment for $13 in the toy section. I knew practically nothing about G scale equipment, and researched it here on the internet. What I discovered was that I had an early Bachman 4-6-0 starter set, battery & RC controlled.
I had illusions of upgrading the loco, but after cleaning it up and running it, I found it performed poorly, just like everyone said it would on the net and it had plastic wheels and detailing which looked too fake. I found a guy in Las Vegas who had an upgrade kit but for the cost I could buy a brand new loco. The second hand rolling stock (3 cars) are in good shape and considering new ones are $25-$75$ each, I'd say I came out ahead. I added some metal wheels ($11) on one car and plan to do the same to the others. The real killer in expense is the track. I learn fast., and after talking to some people and studying the farden RR beginners book by Kalmbach, I went out bought about 100 feet of USA track after surveying and measuring my yard and a Bachman Anniversary edition 4-6-0 loco, which is by far the best deal. The Spectrums are nice but twice as expensive, and I did'nt think it was worth the extra cost.
Eventually, I'm going to convert the loco to full RC.
Right now I am stumped, because I have some permanent landscaped plants, that I can't move where I need to lay the track, between them and a fence, but the roots are near the surface so I cannot dig a trench to put in the crusher fine ballast.

Any suggestions on how to lay the track, if you can't dig a trench to put in the ballast?
I don't want to just lay the track in the dirt.

Thanks
John

[Jim Duda]

I'm stumped too, which is why I haven't moved ahead on this. I would prefer a simple, elevated, 20 foot diameter oval, about 12 inches above ground - the ground is pretty much flat. The supports could be 1 in. round pipe or conduit, with square 1/8 in. thick steel pads welded or brazed on the pipe to support the trackbed, placed 3 - 5 ft. apart (depending on the thickness/strength of the material.

But this is where I'm stumped...what to use for the roadbed? Since it will be continuously curved, it would require LOTS of pressure treated lumber to outline the track, with lots of excess, unused lumber. Anyway, maybe I'll come up with a simple, inexpensive method of constructing the roadbed. Any suggestions?

JD

[Jim Duda]

I'm stumped too, which is why I haven't moved ahead on this. I would prefer a simple, elevated, 20 foot diameter oval, about 12 inches above ground - the ground is pretty much flat. The supports could be 1 in. round pipe or conduit, with square 1/8 in. thick steel pads welded or brazed on the pipe to support the trackbed, placed 3 - 5 ft. apart (depending on the thickness/strength of the material.

But this is where I'm stumped...what to use for the roadbed? Since it will be continuously curved, it would require LOTS of pressure treated lumber to outline the track, with lots of excess, unused lumber. Anyway, maybe I'll come up with a simple, inexpensive method of constructing the roadbed. Any suggestions?

JD

[Anonymous]

Jd, get in touch with Olddad he makes his own spline roadbed with Trex, Trex is a manmade decking material( plastic composite or somthing) look for Olddads FYI links post to get in touch with him. I've seen his photos (e-mailed) and it look like it might work for you.

[Anonymous]

Jd, get in touch with Olddad he makes his own spline roadbed with Trex, Trex is a manmade decking material( plastic composite or somthing) look for Olddads FYI links post to get in touch with him. I've seen his photos (e-mailed) and it look like it might work for you.