Tom Trigg
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
Have fun with your trains
Since it's been 8 months, what did you end up doing Bjohns? and what did you do with the new bright?
I would like to see that article, I'll have to find some used GR which month was it? I know I spoke to Vsmith and probably others about this very subject on MLS board. I got in real cheap, a Scientific Toys set for $4 at a flea market. I am missing 4 curves, and hate to pay even E-bay prices which are much more than I paid for the whole set. I'm watching Ebay for a HLW loco, I want to build a mining layout since I'm from Coal country in Eastern PA.
What do you put in the New Bright/ Scientific stck for smoke? I see there is a plastic buld type item under the stack. Thanks, Dave
Hi there,
I'm new to this forum as I model Ho scale, but a couple of years ago a friend gave me a Scientific set and I was hooked. I looked high and low for the stuff (did not want to deal with ebay). Joe0315 said he could not find a retailer that sold the stuff so I wanted to share the info. I found out that Kaybeetoys.com sells the sets as well as track sets really cheap. I even found a few of the stores carried the sets (in NJ). I just picked one up today. I know these are considered toys but hey, I've heard the same about my Ho stuff. I say as long as you have fun....that's what matters.
Lady-CNJ wrote: Hi there, I'm new to this forum as I model Ho scale, but a couple of years ago a friend gave me a Scientific set and I was hooked. I looked high and low for the stuff (did not want to deal with ebay). Joe0315 said he could not find a retailer that sold the stuff so I wanted to share the info. I found out that Kaybeetoys.com sells the sets as well as track sets really cheap. I even found a few of the stores carried the sets (in NJ). I just picked one up today. I know these are considered toys but hey, I've heard the same about my Ho stuff. I say as long as you have fun....that's what matters.
Hey there,
Thanks for the advice Vsmith. I will try it. I also have a problem with the engine derailing and I was wondering how to fix that, so that helps a lot. One question though. Will adding weight hurt the engine? As I said before I model Ho so I don't know much about battery powered locos or G-scale. So your advice is a big help.
Thanks again! Danielle
Hi Danielle
Heres what I did, from another forum:
Yes, I added weight to my Scientific loco by unscrewing the boiler and adding self-adhesive tire rim weights that should be avalible at PEP BOYS or similar auto parts shops. I'm lucky in the my LHS sells them. They come in 1oz. and 1/2oz sizes and have a peal off adhesive backing. They come in strips about 4 inches long and break down into 1/2" squares, I added as many 1 oz weights as I could by sticking them to the inside of the boiler in whatever space I could find onto the inside face of the boiler, being very carefull to make sure that they didnt interfer with reassembly. I figure I added 12 to 16 oz of weight, 1 oz at a time, which these badly need. Make sure you study the inside before you start sticking, theres a certain amount of strategy involved because once to stick these weights, there permanent!
I'll add that I did this with the engine on its back so I could lift the drive off, place an individual weight down with backing still in place, close it up and make sure it fits and still closes up, reopen it and then peal off the backing and adhere it in place and move on to the next weight and work my way around the the innards from front to back. Sounds tedious, but theres really not a lot of extra space inside so you have to approach it stratigicly. Be carefull not to add weight beyond the line of the front axle as it will unbalance the engine.
Good Luck
Chris Walas wrote:While the weights really do make a huge difference in keeping the Scientific Toys Mogul on track, I've found (in my experience) that it's more important to take the flange off the center driver. The ST mechanism doesn't have the side to side play that better three axle drives have and on the tight radius plastic track, there's a lot of stress on the chassis, which pushes the front driver to walk over the outside rail. It's easy to take down the flange; turn the loco upside down and turn it on. Simply apply a file to the flange and wait till it's even with the rest of the wheel (i.e. track level) or use a Dremel sanding disc if you're in a hurry. As long as the wheels are turning, it's relatively easy to get an even result. I've done this on four or five of these locos and it works better than adding weight (IMHO). Hope this helps. Chris
Silver, Chris....S...I...L...V..E..R........
(He knows whatzdisabout)
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