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combatibility of aristro craft and Lgb track

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combatibility of aristro craft and Lgb track
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 26, 2005 7:55 PM
how combatible are LGB's and aristro's brass track (euro style)

Matt

(Im new to this fourum)[:)]
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Posted by Curmudgeon on Monday, September 26, 2005 8:05 PM
yes.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 26, 2005 8:06 PM
yes as in they are compatible
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Posted by Curmudgeon on Monday, September 26, 2005 8:08 PM
What I said.

Same code (332), virtualy the same profile, different joiner technology, but most folks mix it.
TOC
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Posted by markn on Monday, September 26, 2005 10:50 PM
What TOC said-but if cosmetics are an issue-they are different. LGB has brown ties-Aristo has black and the brass of the rails are different colors
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Posted by amotz on Monday, September 26, 2005 10:54 PM
Matt:
Over time, any joints between the two makes of track will be prime candidates for lost conductivity. Rail clamps or jumper wires are the solution; on your initial installation keep the mixed joints to a minimum.
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Posted by kstrong on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:21 AM
The joint conductivity problems won't be specific to cross-brand joints. All joints will oxidize and get flaky over time unless clamped, soldered, or jumpered. If you're doing powered track, you need to electrically reinforce your track joints, period.

And yes, there will be one or two people who jump in and say "well, I've been running track power outdoors for years without jumpers, and have never had any electrical problems." Glad to hear it, but their experience is certainly the exception to the rule. There's a reason rail clamps are so popular.

But to echo the above answers, yes, the two brands are compatible. There are subtle differences, but the rails are the same width apart and the same profile, which is all that's really important in the grand scheme of things.

Later,

K
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Posted by cacole on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 9:52 AM
I have one LGB piece of track among all of my Aristo -- a crossing diamond. I had to use rail clamps to install it because LGB and Aristo rail joiners are not even close to being compatible.

The LGB rail has weathered to a more realistic color. I run only battery power or live steam, so I can't comment about electrical problems when mixing the brands.
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Posted by vsmith on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 11:07 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

I have one LGB piece of track among all of my Aristo -- a crossing diamond. I had to use rail clamps to install it because LGB and Aristo rail joiners are not even close to being compatible.

The LGB rail has weathered to a more realistic color. I run only battery power or live steam, so I can't comment about electrical problems when mixing the brands.



They are compatable, just have to really force it the first time as the LGB rail web thickness is smaller than Aristos and Aristos rail base width is a slight bit narrower than LGB's, but with a little tender persuasion, they will fit. I do agree the best headache and sore hand free solution is to use rail clamps where the two track types meet, but its not a requirement.

   Have fun with your trains

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Posted by Train 284 on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 11:18 AM
They are completely compatibale with one another.
Matt Cool Espee Forever! Modeling the Modoc Northern Railroad in HO scale Brakeman/Conductor/Fireman on the Yreka Western Railroad Member of Rouge Valley Model RR Club
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Posted by piercedan on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 3:30 PM
LGB, Aristo and USA are all the same code 332. LGB uses a different joiner than the other 2.

Aristo stainless is a little different and only has a problem with older rail clamps.

Newest Hillman railclamps work on all of the above.





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Posted by GP-9_Man11786 on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:46 PM
I use USA and Aristo track ith LGB switches because Aristo switches are junk. I have never had problems at the joints and as for the different color of the ties, I hardly notice it. The only problem with LGB track is getting the joiners off so insulated joiners can be installed.

Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.

www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com 

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Posted by piercedan on Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:35 AM
To remove LGB joiners I drill out the depression on the joiner and then pull it straight off with pliers. Pull hard!!

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Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, September 28, 2005 7:34 PM
Easy and quick! Insert LARGE flat screwdriver into the joiner. Hold rail with pliers. Twist, the joiner will spread apart (across the hole length.) Grasp joiner in finger tips, roll it down and out of the tie. This technique will NOT damage the tie nor will it damage any part of a switch. I ruined 2 switches by "pulling hard"

Tom Trigg

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 8:02 PM
I put both LGB and Aristo in my fist section area 2 and i regret putting Aristo in and I am going to get rid of it soon as it is a bit of trouble.

I am not saying a word against Aristo as in my opinion it is better than LGB as it has a better alloy base. Howevr the Screw connections are very good but not as good as LGB ones soldered and im not sure how to solder Aristo.

The join betwenn the two has given me no trouble 2 years down the track but theother connections do from time to time. Soldered LGB joins are no trouble ever.

Rgds ian

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