Will do, Paul!
As for routine train running, yes, much like my aquariums, the more i run the trains, the more I identify and work out the trouble spots. There is nothing worse than having an electrical gremlin the day you are entertaining!
Eric
Eric, would love to see pictures of your project when you finish!
Also, really loving operating this garden railway. Smaller than the last one, but lots going on in a small space! Operating every weekend allows for " tuning" equipment, cars , couplers, track, and engines.Most sessions are flawless because of having corrected all the minor issues.
Really enjoying operating, and taking a break from construction!
Paul
https://whatibedoo.shutterfly.com/#%3aemid%3dsite_sitecreated%26cid%3dSHARE3SXXXX
Haven't worked on the layout much since October, but I run the trains every weekend, usually Saturday and Sunday.I cut a gap rail 2 feet from the top end as a Fail-Safe to auto stop the train in case I'm not paying attention... I intend to purchase the back and forth circuit to automate the cog line. That's where things stand as of today.
Also, I should add that the purpose of this transition piece was to take the grade down from 16% to a very gentle and manageable grade on the section of 180 degree LGB sectional track. This greatly minimizes the forces that would normally cause the inner rail to be much lower. It becomes manageable, with no extra correction needed.
Hi Rex,
the 180 of R2 is new LGB sectional track. This vertical bend transition in the picture is hand laid. And yes, the rails were pre bent. I made a block with an arch in it to bend the track.
Are you using a rail bender or just sectional track for your 180 R2 at the top?
My helix was built with SS sectional track. What looked pretty much like a circle turned out to have a lot of stress when laid. I had to do a lot of work with a railbender to get the track to lay level and allow the sections to stay connected even with split jaw joiners. If I were to do it again I would use brass or AL and set up some jigs as you have done to get the complex bends into the rail to get the "spring" out before laying it down.
Rex in Pinetop
I'm happy how this turned out. Still on hold for more supplies and materials, but I have a clear vision of how to proceed.
The plan is to have the cog line double back and cross over itself. Then terminate at the front near the grass and transformer station at a height about 5.5 feet. This leaves open the option of someday extending an elevated line out over the grass...possibly...
Extremely complex track geometry from here on. Thsee sections will be prefabricated. The ascending 180degree curve will need correction to keep the inner and outer rails somewhat level.
The cog line currently terminates on a 16.5% grade. This transition will taper off the grade before going into a 180degree curve of LGB R2 track.
Taking a break from painting the mural/ backdrop, at least until we get more paints. This section is a transition piece for the cog line.
You see rocks in nature, and you think of them as being free !!
I could buy a really nice engine for the price of those rocks !!!
I think this is the start of many fun times in the garden !
You can see how it wants to slant inward. This is after correcting as much as possible. It'S a cool looking effect, though.
You actually have to induce a twist in the track and boards to level the track going into and out of curves on a steep grade.
I repositioned the 2 end posts, this took out most of the bow. I'll work on reinforcing, and adding an "outrigger" to the very end post. This structure weathered extremely high winds this week, no trouble.
As it turns out...
Rocks are expensive !!
Who knew? This is one of the cheaper lots, $200 a ton. The man says this is a ton and a half...I would need 4 palates to do what I want. I need to think of another way...
Thanks Greg !!
sharing tips and info is what it's all about ! My current line of thinking is to add a 1/2 X 1/2 aluminum angle to the outer edges of the boards for stiffness, but the truss concept makes a lot of sense !
I'm finding out that I have many compound curves at work in the track geometry:
for example, if a train is going up hill at 15%, and there is a curve at the top, the tendency is for the curve to be slanted at the same angle, and not at level. Many forces at work, and tweaking to at least get it close to what I'm looking for.
I'm still making adjustments!!
Thanks again!
I see the boards are starting to sag, which is normal. You might add a metal wire, turnbuckle and a center spacer so you can compensate for the sag.
you can see the block in the center of the span in the open area, and a turnbuckle for adjusting the tightness. You can use a smaller block and turnbuckle, this is a 2x4 and handles heavy locos
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Thank You !
The direction comes from within.
This hobby can be whatever you want it to be.
That's the beautiful thing about it !!
Postwar PaulIt's been a tough climb, but I've enjoyed the challenge!!
You've done a good job! You and others have almost convinced me that this is the direction I may want to go. Not yet, but almost.
York1 John
It's been a tough climb, but I've enjoyed the challenge!!
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