train locomotive couplers do you change the OE couplers?

[grandpopswalt]

An uncoupling magnet stratigically situated can serve several spurs. It's not a good idea to locate a magnet on the mainline or on a curve. Except for the two items mentioned, kadees usually work flawlessly.

What curmudgeon says is true, mounting kadees will probably mean altering the car or loco somewhat. But that should only be an issue if you are collecting rolling stock with the hope that the price will appreciate. But if you're in this because you like to play trains, then Kadees are, in my humble opinion, the most realistic and easy to use couplers today.

Walt

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't do anything like that, I love my LGB couplers they work and look just perfect,

Regards Ian

[Curmudgeon]

Yes, you can install cut bars and make them work.
Funny thing about Kadees.
How do you uncouple them?
Do you place magnets all over, or do you carry a long "wand" to do it?
We laugh uproariously when folks used to using Kadees come operate the CCRy.
You see them lifting one car enough to clear the couplers to switch.
We don't.
The Milwaukee Mafia convinced everyone Kadees were the way to go decades ago.
They are not.
I get cars given to me by the box full with Kadees on them, as their resale value is zilch. I have to locate replacement trucks or bolsters and original couplers to repair them, and you still have holes in the body.

IF you can live with the foibles and limitaions imposed, they are fine.
But before you do a wholesale conversion of all your stock, do one end on two cars and try them. Try uncoupling the, look at how much you have to do to "shim" them to work, THEN decide.

TOC

[grandpopswalt]

Rip off the OE stuff and install Kadees. Some folks object to the "unsightly" trip pins on Kadee couplers, however I object to the 3 foot wide couplers supplied with most cars, Bachmann for exampIe.

I feel that there is a limit to how "interactive" I want to be with my trains. And having to go around with a dental pick to uncouple cars is that limit. Kadee's are, in my opinion, as close as we're going to get to realistic operation short of actually putting our hands on the rolling stock. That might be O.K. if the roadbed is waist high, but it's a very different story on ground level layouts and particularly if the owner is getting a little "long in the tooth".

Walt

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Curmudgeon

I have never cared for couplers that have a Cadillac front coil spring painted brass color wired on the side, and with stiff air hoses.
I use original Bachmann and Lionel and Delton (all work togeher) with the lgb and USA converted to Lionels.
Works, and does it with a prototypical drop-pin.
TOC

Can you make fuctioning Cut levers?

[Curmudgeon]

I have never cared for couplers that have a Cadillac front coil spring painted brass color wired on the side, and with stiff air hoses.
I use original Bachmann and Lionel and Delton (all work togeher) with the lgb and USA converted to Lionels.
Works, and does it with a prototypical drop-pin.
TOC

[Anonymous]

train-me, I don't as of yet own motive power, however I already plan on using Kadee's so anything I buy will be converted to there 820's #1gauge. They to me look better in the proto typical sence.

[Anonymous]

Hi train me
Whats a diesle??[:D] I try and avoid boring boxes on wheels[:)]
Back to the point I only change the OE coupling if it is not hook and loop
At times I mod the hook and loop if it fouls on the LGB in track boxes.
regards John

[Anonymous]

i was intrested in hook and loop couplers post and it got me thinking am i the only one running with hook and loop on my diesel's OE ?
OE = original equipment