train locomotive couplers do you change the OE couplers?

[Anonymous]

i was intrested in hook and loop couplers post and it got me thinking am i the only one running with hook and loop on my diesel's OE ?
OE = original equipment

[Anonymous]

Hi train me
Whats a diesle??[:D] I try and avoid boring boxes on wheels[:)]
Back to the point I only change the OE coupling if it is not hook and loop
At times I mod the hook and loop if it fouls on the LGB in track boxes.
regards John

[Anonymous]

train-me, I don't as of yet own motive power, however I already plan on using Kadee's so anything I buy will be converted to there 820's #1gauge. They to me look better in the proto typical sence.

[Curmudgeon]

I have never cared for couplers that have a Cadillac front coil spring painted brass color wired on the side, and with stiff air hoses.
I use original Bachmann and Lionel and Delton (all work togeher) with the lgb and USA converted to Lionels.
Works, and does it with a prototypical drop-pin.
TOC

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Curmudgeon

I have never cared for couplers that have a Cadillac front coil spring painted brass color wired on the side, and with stiff air hoses.
I use original Bachmann and Lionel and Delton (all work togeher) with the lgb and USA converted to Lionels.
Works, and does it with a prototypical drop-pin.
TOC

Can you make fuctioning Cut levers?

[grandpopswalt]

Rip off the OE stuff and install Kadees. Some folks object to the "unsightly" trip pins on Kadee couplers, however I object to the 3 foot wide couplers supplied with most cars, Bachmann for exampIe.

I feel that there is a limit to how "interactive" I want to be with my trains. And having to go around with a dental pick to uncouple cars is that limit. Kadee's are, in my opinion, as close as we're going to get to realistic operation short of actually putting our hands on the rolling stock. That might be O.K. if the roadbed is waist high, but it's a very different story on ground level layouts and particularly if the owner is getting a little "long in the tooth".

Walt

[Curmudgeon]

Yes, you can install cut bars and make them work.
Funny thing about Kadees.
How do you uncouple them?
Do you place magnets all over, or do you carry a long "wand" to do it?
We laugh uproariously when folks used to using Kadees come operate the CCRy.
You see them lifting one car enough to clear the couplers to switch.
We don't.
The Milwaukee Mafia convinced everyone Kadees were the way to go decades ago.
They are not.
I get cars given to me by the box full with Kadees on them, as their resale value is zilch. I have to locate replacement trucks or bolsters and original couplers to repair them, and you still have holes in the body.

IF you can live with the foibles and limitaions imposed, they are fine.
But before you do a wholesale conversion of all your stock, do one end on two cars and try them. Try uncoupling the, look at how much you have to do to "shim" them to work, THEN decide.

TOC

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't do anything like that, I love my LGB couplers they work and look just perfect,

Regards Ian

[grandpopswalt]

An uncoupling magnet stratigically situated can serve several spurs. It's not a good idea to locate a magnet on the mainline or on a curve. Except for the two items mentioned, kadees usually work flawlessly.

What curmudgeon says is true, mounting kadees will probably mean altering the car or loco somewhat. But that should only be an issue if you are collecting rolling stock with the hope that the price will appreciate. But if you're in this because you like to play trains, then Kadees are, in my humble opinion, the most realistic and easy to use couplers today.

Walt

[Anonymous]

since ive had the stroke in 1998 ive used the HL couplers that came on my usat locos and never had them come uncoupled yet.
i have installed aristo couplers on all of my rolling stock and have had no problems uncoupling yet. and my few transition cars.
its easier for me to convert rolling stock then my diesels!
and no added expense.[soapbox]
happy RR

[jebouck]

KD's on everything! Body mounted.
I just love taking a razor saw to the undersides of my so-called "collectable" cars and cutting notches. Even the high priced RhB Salon cars.
Uncouple with a long ignition screw driver.
Not one problem, anytime, any where.
jb

[vsmith]

Tossed all the H&L's, mounted bachmann couplers because their inexpensive and mount right onto the H&L tab. But recently I have begun converting some engines and cars yet again to Link & Pin. These look far far better than anything else so far.

[kstrong]

Don't let TOC's anti-Kadee comments scare you too much. He feels the same way about Chevrolet. I've had the pleasure of operating on TOC's railroad, and the Bachmann/Delton couplers he uses work very well. (He even let me park my Chevy on his driveway, though I think he had it pressure-washed after I left. [;)] ) As morally opposed as TOC is to Kadee's trip pins and coil springs, so am I to Bachmann's grossly oversized and blocky appearance. (It's a bit large for 1:20.3, let alone 1:29 or 1:32.) I've been using the #1 scale Kadee couplers for nearly 20 years, and have been enormously pleased with their operation. The ghastly trip pins can easily be cut off, and once you put a coat of paint on the coupler, the coil spring all but vanishes into the background. The drawback--as TOC states--is that you must either lift the car up to uncouple it, or insert a flathead screwdriver between them and twist. (The preferred and quite simple method.) I also use the same flat head screwdriver to clear the inevitable chunk of ballast or other debris from around the switch points.

As for mounting them, body mounting any manufactuer's couplers will require a fair amount of engineering, shimming, and hole drilling. Kadees are no harder or easier than Bachmann, USA, or any other brands. If ya body mount them, you're going to have to do a little bit of measuring and cutting. No two ways around that one, folks.

I do like the notion of operating the couplers prototypically with cut levers. If that's important for you, I'd opt for either the Accucraft couplers for 1:20.3, or the USA Trains couplers for 1:29 or 1:32. (You can also use the USA trains coupler for 1:20.3 (and 1:24 and 1:22.5) It would just represent a 3/4 scale coupler used by a number of narrow gauge railroads. I thought about going with the USA couplers myself, but the complete coupler pocket assembly and ease of installation of the Kadee #820 ultimately won out. (The Kadee #1 scale series of couplers scales out perfectly to a 3/4 scale prototype coupler.)

If aesthetics is not at all a concern, hook and loop couplers (with hooks on both ends) are bulletproof. They're easy to uncouple with a thin piece of plastic--even a Discover card! If aesthetics is a bit of a concern, but so is resale value, then opt for one of the truck mounted varieties from USA, Bachmann, Aristo or Kadee. These can all usually be mounted with minimal surgery to the truck itself, and ordinarily no work to the carbody. If you want operational stability, close to prototype fidelity, and aren't worried about resale value, then body mount Kadees or USA for 1:29 / 1:32, and Kadee, USA, Accucraft or Bachmann if you're doing 1:20.3.

The larger concern with couplers is compatibility. In large scale, there is none. Any that exists between brands is purely coincedental and definitely unintentional. The August 2003 issue of GR has a comparison looking at the various brands of couplers currently available. It's definitely worth a look if you're contemplating choosing a single style of coupler. (Hook and Loops are not covered.)

When the great trumet sounds, though, remember one constant... the almighty paper clip.

Later,

K

[grandpopswalt]

So there it is ..................... like most things in life, pick your expert, fall in behind him and march forth. Everyone who's posted on this subject has presented a compelling argument and offered indisputable proof that his brand of coupler is far superior to all the others. I guess it all boils down to personal taste.

Walt

[Curmudgeon]

Cupla things.
There IS a standard.
Bachmann, Delton, Lionel, USA and lgb with Lionel couplers are all the same height and couple together just fine.

'nuther is collectability. I don't care a randy rat's hindquarters about that. The reason I get these given to me is they won't work with original stock when Kadees are installed.
Holes affect RESALE value.......I don't know about you, but I'd look at a car before I bought it to see if it had a bunch of holes drilled into it.

last, the first one I ever saw lift a car to uncouple was........that guy who drove his shove-it-or-leave-it into my driveway.
We still talk about that, every time we have to dig out the Remote Volume Control.....

I am not OPPOSED to them.....just, like I posted earlier, try them on a couple of cars FIRST before you do a wholesale conversion of your fleet.

And, hey, I didn't even get into the rust issue.
Remember, if it's magnetic or attracted by a magnet, it rusts.
And when that pin rusts solid in the coupler body..........

TOC

[kstrong]

Wow, TOC. I must have pushed the right button. I haven't gotten you that riled up since my r/c installation article. [;)] Must have been the "pressure washing" comment.[:p]

As for the rust issue...

A small drop of oil goes a long way to keep that from happening. If, in a rare instance it does (i.e, the car is left out in a monsoon), you can tap the pin out of the coupler, take some steel wool or wire bru***o the pin to remove the rust, and tap it back into place. Of all the fixes one may ever have to do, it's rather simple. I've never had one rust shut. I've had them painted shut, but never rusted.

*sniffle* and you still laugh at my "car lifting?" *snif* I'm crushed. [:(] Had you given me a flathead screwdriver, I'm sure I would have figured it out![:D]

Seriously, though. One thing that hasn't been mentioned in all this...

If you're going to body mount the couplers, screw the coupler assembly into the frame of the car. Do not rely on glue to hold it. "Glue only" mounts had a 100% failure rate in my experience. There needs to be a mechanical link betweent the coupler and the frame of the car.

As Walt stated, there's lots of options, lots of opinions, and lots of champions for each. Pick your poison and live with the side-effects.

And TOC, if you've a pile of worthless rusted Kadees lying about, you know what my address is...[:)] I'll send you my chunky, oversized Bachmann couplers in return.

Later,

K

(Don't worry, folks... TOC and I banter back and forth like this on a routine basis.)

[Curmudgeon]

I threw out boxes full of rusted ones.
We tried cleaning them, but the rust was such they would no longer go through the moveable portion, so we gave up.
I do have a BIG bag of take-offs.
Need Delton and Lionels.....
Never, ever had to "oil" any of my other couplers.....guess you just need to be prepared, right?
TOC

[bman36]

Hey guys,
Being a Street Rodder as well as being into Large Scale makes me the guy who likes to "cut one up" if you will. Car enthusiasts can be a REALLY weird bunch. They too are brand loyal and will froth at the mouth over "what's better". I recall an ad Chrysler put out years ago that read "Thankyou Ford and Chevrolet for putting Chrysler Hemis into your race cars!" Still makes me laugh today. BTW Kevin I own a 1940 Chev Coupe. Currently it has a Pontiac engine in it but it is slated for a stroked 440 that will be up to 488 cubes. I do this so the die hard Chevy guys will blow a blood vessel when I open the hood. Painted on the firewall will be "The Thunder of a Mopar stops the Heartbeat of America!" Can't wait to see the reactions. How does all this fit with couplers? Well I feel it makes for great reading when we can express our preferences without getting mad at each other. None of my rolling stock or locos was purchased to resell at a profit. Besides I will most likely modify the daylights out of them purely for the enjoyment of creating. After all when the trumpet sounds we can't take em' with us. Personally I find Bachmann couplers most suitable for my usage and budget. A bag full is quite cheap. Still having fun here! Later eh...Brian.

[Curmudgeon]

Did street rods for years (still run a 1949 Willys with 3/4 '50 Merc) and the restored stuff (have had a 1950 Tudor for 35 years).
Nothing wrong with flatmotors, just don't go drilling holes in them.
TOC

[Anonymous]

[Anonymous]

img
http://www.users.bigpond.com/iandor/DCP_0009.JPG
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[Anonymous]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by iandor

Cool, pic!!!! Ian that is a capital pic!!!

[Anonymous]

[Anonymous]

[Anonymous]

[Anonymous]

[Curmudgeon]

Ian- What do the photos have to do with couplers (other than uncoupling my connection)?
The ones I can make out look stock.
TOC

[Anonymous]

[Curmudgeon]

Photo Wars.
Has to be.
TOC