Will Mark & Vince

[PETER HYDE]

I'm building the project and am trying to determine if the decoder is connecting to the Throttle. Any ideas?

Peter

[steveasm]

the binking LED on the decoder board will turn to a steady 'on' once the decoder connects to the throttle.

[briandh]

I've built an open source version of the transmitter code and posted the source at https://github.com/bdharrison/wireless-dcc.  There is also an object code download at https://github.com/bdharrison/wireless-dcc/blob/master/Transmitter/Debug/Transmitter.hex for those who don't want to build from source.  The key differences from Mark's version in the magazine are:

1. The radio channel is set in the code, not jumpers on the board.  
2. The transmitter supports up to six pushbuttons, giving access to all 13 DCC functions (F0-F12).  
3. You can easily change which DCC functions toggle on/off and which are press-and-hold.  
4. It is open source, so if you don't like it you can change it!

The start of the code file has the values that can be changed:

@1040
0B 00 02 01 00 00 00 01 01 00 00 01 01 00 01 01 

The first two bytes are the loco address (0B 00 is address 11)
The next byte is the radio channel to use (02 is channel 2)
The next 13 bytes are for DCC functions F0 to F12 and are 01 for toggle on/off mode, or 00 to press-and-hold.  

Note the decoder in the article only supports F0 to F2.  I've posted receiver code that allow connection to a standard DCC decoder, which may support all DCC functions.  I'll get to work on a complete decoder that supports more outputs...

Cheers,
Brian.

 

[genera]

Brian Thanks for your work. I got busy and did not go any further with mine. I am sure everyone will benefit from your hard work Gene

[genera]

Brian You need to star a new thread called. Something like I did it free DCC software Gene

[jarable]

Thanks Brian! Definitely going to be putting this on my project list to make a new throttle. 

[steveasm]

Thanks Brian,

FYI, I loaded the code into my throttle and took my engine to a social meet yesterday and it performed flawlessly.

 

[Narrowgauge]

OK Folks, I am late coming to the party, but I have downloaded the complete article which Rene and the good folks at GR assembled. Reading through the original article (I know there is a fair amount of discussion on the forum and I will get there later), I have a few ovservations and questions. After assembling a spreadsheet with all the parts for both the TX and RX as listed in the article, the RF Booster Pack Kit and an MSP430 Launch-pad Kit are listed in both parts lists. The article indicates that the RF Booster Pack Kit is supplied with two booster pack boards. One board for the TX and one for the RX?

Next is the Launc Pad Kit. Do I need one each for the TX's and RX's or will one suffice for all operations? The article calls for software to be downloaded from www.elprotronic.com. The description provided in the article does not match what is on their DOWNLOAD page. The closest I can come is a file:

Category: FET-Pro-430 Software Pkg. - STD
Description: Installation pachage for FET-Pro-430, included GUI, DLL, and supporting material. Standard Version.
File Name: FET-Pro430-Setup.zip

Is this the correct file?

A couple issues arose as I was developing the spreadsheet. The most obvious is the Radio Shack part numbers provided. Most of the Radio Shack stores in my area have closed or are in the process of closing so the longevity of those parts is in serious question.

The knob called for the potentiometer needs to be sized for a 6mm (1/4") shaft diameter. A replacement from Newark Electronics, P/N 91F2236 is available for $4.92. A bit more searching found a suitable know from Mouser, P/N 642-430212B1/4 for $1.90.

I had difficulty locating one of the risistors listed in the parts list.  Mouser P/N 71-CRCW080547K0JNEA could not be found. I was able to find a 71-CRCW080547K0JNEB. Can someone confirm that this part is the correct part and the list in the article is a misprint.

The second Radio Shack part listed I don't have a clue how to substitute. The Radio Shack Buzzer. Is this part necessary, and if so can anyone suggest a substitution?

And lastly the Radio Shack hookup wire. I have done a major conversion on my Bachmann K27 and used Cat5e wire for all the circuits. It is the same size as the manufacturer used so I feel confident it will suffice for this project as replacement for the Radio Shack stuff.

One last comment, the motor driver in the RX parts list is the only item supplied by Digikey. The same part is available from Mouser, however the cost is about a dollar more. Digikey will charge you in the neighborhood of three to four dollars for shipping, so in my opinion ordering from Mouser will be cheaper in the long run as you will already be paying shipping on the rest of the parts.

I am sure as I get further into this project I will find more questions to ask. Thanks for now.

Bob C.

[genera]

Bob C

TI  Booster pack kit has 2 units 595-430boost-cc110l about $20.00

launch pad you only need 1

down load  430D0  latest to one 430 chip,download 430TO to second 430 chip, keep track which one is which directly from launch pad also would suggesting another  buck and buy sockets for chips solder in sockets then plug chips into sockets

buzzer any noise maker useing 12 volts small current will work.  I used a sound module from electronics 123 recorded my friends mack truck, put in a 5volt regulator from battery voltage to 5volt reg.  Mine is installed in a HLW mighty mack

Forget all everybodys part nos Mouser has everything.  Knob is just a knob but might like one with a pointer. look at mouser online

mouser pn resistor 47k is71-crcw08054kojnea

resistor 220 ohm is 71-crcw0805220rjneb

capacitor .1 at 25 volts is 77-vj0805y104mxxac

dont buy only number you need buy at least10 each unless you have good soldering equipment.  I  have hot air system and 25 years electronics and lost 1 resistor i  mounting.

there was an error on battery box pn 546-bh2aaw correct from mouser  motor

driver pn 757-tb6568kqo8

wire use only STRANDED wire no solid any 22 or larger wire will ork  I didnot look any at mouser but sure they have small spools

read all tags on Will Mark and Vince, and Building Wireless DCC should find all your answers  my email is listed elsewhere  on somw articles and if you srill need help email me

I have built 5 decoders and 1 throttle

Now moving on to brianha version

 

Gene

 

[Narrowgauge]

Gene,

 

Thanks for your informative response. You have clarified the current list of questions. Your advies is wise and will be heeded. Your are obviously having good results.

 

Bob C.

[jarable]

I found these yesterday http://www.panstamp.com/product/197/
It looks like a miniaturized version of the TI/Anaren board. They also have one that uses the Atmega 328 processor ( same one as in the Arduino ). Looks like it would require a separate support board for the motor driver/ DCC decoder, but it has a much smaller footprint.

[bernied]

Brian,

I've added the three extra buttons and loaded your object code on the throttle and all seems to be working as expected. When I load Marks object code on the decoders pins 5 and 19 only go high when I press F1 and F2. When I load your code on the decoders they are high and go low when I press the buttons. Am I missing something? Thanks for your help and all the work you have done on this project.

Bernie

[briandh]

Hi Bernie,

My fault.  I'm using an Adafruit FX sound board to play sounds and it triggers with a low signal, so I modified the decoder to be low when active.  I've conditional code so I can easily post a version with active high if you'd like.

Also I've just been working on a version of this project that connects the transmitter to a WiFi board (from Particle).  This lets me control the trains (and accessories) from any web browser, such as a smart phone or tablet.  I can post details if there is interest.

Cheers,

Brian.

 

[bernied]

Brian,

A version with active high on pins 5 and 19 would be fantastic.

The Wifi version sound interesting. I've developed a Atmel based (Arduino like) system for turnout control that is automated with IR sensors that I can also control with a tablet or cell phone.

Thanks for all your help on this form.

Bernie

[briandh]

Hi Bernie, I've rebuilt the decoder with the 'normal' behavior of the sound pins being active high on pins 5, 6, 10 and 19.  You can find the updated hex file at https://raw.githubusercontent.com/bdharrison/wireless-dcc/master/Decoder/Decoder.hex  Let me know if you have any problems with it, or can't access GitHub.  

I will post the new project with the Internet connectivity in the next few days.

Cheers,
Brian.

[LGV]

Full-CCW Off speed control w/direction switch instead of the center off control

Does anyone have an interest in this type of speed control?

To those thread contributers who write code: Have any of you written code to change the speed control to the full-ccw off?

Is it possible to write code for this change?

Is it possible to add a direction switch?

 

Thanks,

Robert

[briandh]

Hi Robert,

Sorry to take so long to reply.  A direction switch shouldn't be a problem, as long as you don't need 7 buttons as well.  Do you have specific hardware in mind?  I can put together a version of the software if you have something to test it on.

Cheers,
Brian.

[LGV]

Brian,

 

I built one of the original Wireless DCC systems with the center off control and the three push buttons. I bought enough parts for two systems but only built one.

Does this answer your question about the "specific hardware I had in mind"? 

I am willing to build whatever gives me the full CCW off with direction switch and possibly a few buttons for headlight, reverse light, cab light and 1-3 buttons for sound modules if possible.

 

Thanks,

Robert

[briandh]

Robert,

I've updated the transmitter project to have an option for a full range pot with separate reverse switch.  The reverse switch is instead of the 'accessory' switch, PUSH6, on P1-4 (which is pin 6 on the MSP430).  Ground this pin for reverse operation.  You can then have up to 6 other pushbuttons connected to the same pins as before.  

The updated software can be downloaded from https://github.com/bdharrison/wireless-dcc/blob/master/Transmitter/Transmitter.hex

In order to configure the software for this mode (instead of using PUSH6 for accessory commands), you need to change the first byte on line 3 of the hex file from '01' to '00'.  

Let me know if this does the trick!

Cheers,
Brian.

[LGV]

Brian,

Thanks for the effort to make the changes I asked for to have a full CCW off throttle and direction switch. As time permits, I'll start building the system. I'll update progress as I go.

Regards,

Robert