Tunnel Construction

[Anonymous]

I would like to construct a small tunnel into a dirt mountain on my garden railroad. Unfortunately I don't know what type of lineing i should use.
Scott

[Anonymous]

Well Scott I don't know much about this subject either I was hoping you would, that is why i logged in to this subject.

I have had a few ideas and seen a few things at other peoples layouts. I had ideas of using a 250 mm (10") plastic water pipe, many real rail tunnels are nearly round. I saw an artle in the German Depetch (LGB) magazine and they used "U" shaped concrete moulding, with a matching paving stone on top. They put this all in a trench and filled dirt on top of it after getting the track in first of course. This looked beaut to me but I couldn't get the real guts on iy as i don't understand German.

An important thing seems to be to have an acess chamber in the middle incase of a misshap.

Hope this helps rgs Ian

[Anonymous]

In the past issue of Garden railroading, in a feature article, the guy made a stainless steel tunnel liner, but he used thst to go under or through concrete steps. I myself would use some thick wall PVC pipe 8inch or so and lay ballast in the bottom with holes drilled in the bottom side of the pipe smaller than the ballast for drainage and than used rock or wood for your tunnel portholes on the ends. I would paint the inside black as far back as i could as well.


Carpenter matt

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the advice I'll look into it.
Scott

[Anonymous]

To trainmaster, just remember what is going to "live" in your tunnel. From my experience, cats, snails etc its the worst place to keep the rail clean so whatever you finish up using make sure that you can get inside to clean the rails.

[Marty Cozad]

I make mine in 3 parts, base ,sides,ends. I used CCA wood because its cheap, I coat the inside with mortar so an onboard camera will think its a real tunnel. Then the ends. Heres some links that may help more than words.
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/NTCGRR/tunnel2%20002.jpg
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/NTCGRR/newtunnel111.jpg
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/NTCGRR/newtunnel4%20001.jpg
I need to find the finished photo...
OH be sure to allow for the roadbed height. note the gundersons just fit.
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/NTCGRR/ditchlight3%20001.jpg
I use 20' dia curves so I placed a one third curve at each end of a 5ft straight section so going into the tunnel it looks black and not just a hole ,yet is easy to vacum leaves out of.

[Anonymous]

Nice Senco Pinner marty, I have one too and strangly enough a dog named Senco, named after the Co.

Carpenter matt

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the tips. The first pic is really helpful. The end result looks very good.
Scott

[Marty Cozad]

One more thought: When running a sound unit really sounds deep and good in this tunnel, VS a plastic pipe with hollow sound.

[bman36]

Marty,
Did'nt think of it until you mentioned it. Sound would be more realistic given the right conditions. The tunnel I will be finishing this spring will be concrete blocks covered with stone. Hope it sounds good. Later eh...Brian.

[d4fal]

Depending upon scale, of course, and how big you want this tunnel, the most important part is how the portals look and the functionality of the lining that no one should be able to see anyway. As long as it supports the load above the tunnel, almost anything would do. Temporary tunnels could be mocked up with plywood covered in plastic then overlaid with the dirt covering. Once this is done, and you decided that you like the placement, clearance, etc., you could consider a more permanent structure. In my scale, that is a formidable project, but in G-scale it could be done in pressure treated lumber, and depending upon budget and how long you plan on keeping the tunnel there, you could use a water proof liner and exterior grade plywood. Doubt concrete is really called for in this scale. Seen timber type construction done with treated boards, but that is frowned on in a garden where the treated wood could harm your plants.

[Dick Friedman]

Rule #1: Don't make the tunnel longer than you can reach inside to clean out.
Rule #2: If you MUST build a longer tunnel, make some access hatches, or build a snow shed that partially open.
Now for a suggestion. If the area is dry, redwood 2 by 10's for the sides and top work fine for many years. For a more permanent set up use concrete pavers.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by d4fal

In my scale, that is a formidable project

What scale do you use?
Scott

[d4fal]

My scale is a ride on scale (3 inches to the foot). I require a fairly substantial size tunnel with safe clearances. I still find ideas here that help even me out. Prototype scales are very helpful too.

For a smaller layout, access is key. Tunnels short enough to reach inside will go a long way. Any derailment that happens inside the tunnel would be hard to fix. Having an access portal in mid run might be key, infact neccessary if the tunnel to quite long.

[Michael Smith]

Tunnel Lining. I emailed my local public works department and asked if I could come by and pick up a small piece of 12" diameter water main pipe. PVC cut off the dumbell at the end and I now have a 5' long free tunnel lining.

[mkblk]

Since I'm getting ready to start construction on the BVRR, I thought I'd resurrect this thread as I'm planning 2 tunnels. As suggested by *** Friedman, I'm limiting the length of each to 4'. The overall length was to be about 10', but by breaking it into 2 four foot tunnels with a two foot trestle between them, I'll be able to reach inside from either end to retrieve whatever disaster may be found within.

In the supplement to GR's, "Beginning Garden Railroading" brochure, a concrete tunnel by Larry and Pam Webb is shown. Is there an article in GR that details this particular type of construction? The current issue of GR shows a massive corrugated pipe type construction that is a little too "wow" for me (how do you reach inside?).

MK

[ondrek]

QUOTE: Originally posted by trainmaster1989

I would like to construct a small tunnel into a dirt mountain on my garden railroad. Unfortunately I don't know what type of lineing i should use.
Scott

The Train shop down the road used a square chiminey flume for the tunnel walls and support. it seems to be working really well. they say you can get them cheap if they are cracked a bit. they cant use them for consrtuction, but we can, infact they said to put the cracked side down and its great for drainage.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by d4fal

Depending upon scale, of course, and how big you want this tunnel, the most important part is how the portals look and the functionality of the lining that no one should be able to see anyway. As long as it supports the load above the tunnel, almost anything would do. Temporary tunnels could be mocked up with plywood covered in plastic then overlaid with the dirt covering. Once this is done, and you decided that you like the placement, clearance, etc., you could consider a more permanent structure. In my scale, that is a formidable project, but in G-scale it could be done in pressure treated lumber, and depending upon budget and how long you plan on keeping the tunnel there, you could use a water proof liner and exterior grade plywood. Doubt concrete is really called for in this scale. Seen timber type construction done with treated boards, but that is frowned on in a garden where the treated wood could harm your plants.

Can treated wood harm plants? My tracks are screwed down to pressure treated wood and plants are around it. It has been a year and no plants have been harmed by the wood. Are the plants going to die later on?

[smcgill]

I'm going to make one with concrete blocks-just set dry with some roofing felt on top that I have laying around.I'll set the 16" pavers 6" in the ground (there against the foundation) and use 12" blocks on the outside then set 16" pavers across the both. I'll then cover with the felt and dirt. This will give me 12" before I ptu in track.I'll get to the potals @ some date.

[mkblk]

[Anonymous]

hi trainmaster1989
Just a small caution to add to the list make the Tunnel far larger bore than
is required the trend is for larger locomotives.
And if you win the lottery and decide you want steam power they tend to be a little larger bur not much than most G scale stock there are as always exeptions.
Oh and if you have a pet rabbit keep an eye on it a friend of mine had to explain to his very young daughter why floppsy was an expired rabbit
head on with heavy steam train in the tunnel
regards John

[Anonymous]

i am using the chimney flue linner. its 12x 24, it works great. my only complaint is the longest they make is 24 inchs.

but its workin out just fine.

Jeff

[Anonymous]

Last week I ran into the foreman of our local waterworks dept. He offered me a 12" x 14' (foot) PVC watermain pipe. The only catch was that the end was full of concrete. A portable generator and a sawsall made easy work of lightening the load in about 5 minutes. And best of all, I only had to cut off about 8 inches from the end.

After I got it home and cut it to the desired length of 66", it still weighed in at about 150 lbs. The wall is 1 inch thick! It's definetly not going anywhere! And I still have another 8' left....WOOHOO[:p]

[Anonymous]

JEFF
I ALSO USED A CHIMNEY FLUE LINNER YOU CAN PUT 2---3 TOGETHER AND USE STONES TO HIDE THEM LIKE A MOUNTIAN . BEN[2c][:)]

[nalts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Marty Cozad
OH be sure to allow for the roadbed height. note the gundersons just fit.
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/NTCGRR/ditchlight3%20001.jpg

Very nice Marty-

Being a newby to the hobby, I'll ask the obviously simple question. How much height do you need? I haven't seen the gundersons in action yet but would like the possibility of adding in the future. What is the height of your portals before laying ballast?

Thanks,
Chris

PS: As a side note. I stopped by a local construction site where the city is putting in water and sewer for a 600 home development. There is pipe everywhere!

I took the advice of a previous poster and spoke to the forman about getting some of their throw-aways. Looks like I'll have my choice of sizes and lengths for only the cost of some beer.

What is the minimum diameter I should get? I know I saw 12", 16", 18" and possibly 24". Also wondering if anyone runs a double mainline through a tunnel? Any suggestions or additional thoughts on size?

Thanks in advance,
Chris

[Anonymous]

IMHO I would get all the sizes. Small to very large.
Helps to have a stock of it unless you want to go and buy a whole pipe for only a needed section of 3'.
I raid plumbers when I see them. I just ask for any bad pipe, brass or plastic.

[nalts]

Thanks for the advice Blue. I'll have to see what I can get away with next time I stop by the construction site. Hopefully they will set aside their throw-aways like they said they would.

Chris

[Anonymous]

hi y'all,
I'm tryin to do the same thing, and all I know is that a tunnel should NEVER be more than two arm lengths long (if your train de-rails, a hedgehog thinks its a hibernation hole etc.etc.)
hope this was of some help,

[mryombee]

Another idea I have heard of is to use a plastic 15 inch culvert. It can be bent if you wish, but as stated, make sure you leave access from the top just in case you need it, and don't forget to punch holes in the bottom for drainage.

Also, I read in an article someplace that if you make some sort of a plug or drape somethng over the enterance and exit when you are not running the railroad, it will help to keep out the critters and leaves.

[Anonymous]

I've got 2 screens that fit over the ends to keep the rabbits out.