Trains.com

concrete and temperature question

5116 views
37 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: south central PA
  • 580 posts
Posted by concretelackey on Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:37 PM

Lakes and streams in the sense of using the concrete to form a "bowl" for the lake and to channel the water for the stream? I'd need to check into how the latest versions act in that application but I know for a fact that there are other variations for water containment. Most likely you will need to drain it and keep it dry for about a week at least for the best results. have you considered using rubber sheeting that is used for fish ponds? That would depend on your desired look though. Having a black bottom would give the illusion of great depth.

I'll see what I can come up with.

Ken aka "CL" "TIS QUITE EASY TO SCREW CONCRETE UP BUT TIS DARN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO UNSCREW IT"
  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: south central PA
  • 580 posts
Posted by concretelackey on Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:42 PM

Do you have an approximate idea of the surface area to be sealed in your lakes and streams and also the surface area of your arches? I'd recommend NOT sealing the feet of the arch. This will allow moisture transfer out of the arch at a natural rate.

I emailed one of my contacts about 20 minutes ago to get a point of contact for you in or near Manassas. I need to do some digging for the other contacts since it has been a few years since I dealt with them.

Additional thought.....after you pour your concrete and finish to your liking cover the mold with a sheet of plastic, preferably not black. I've used those white kitchen trash bags more than once for this. This time of year (winter) the air is much drier than in the other seasons and since you moved production indoors this may increase the dryness. Covering the mold retains as much moisture as possible which helps the curing process. The following link (near the end) helps explain the reason for covering the concrete.

http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1278635/ShowPost.aspx

Ken aka "CL" "TIS QUITE EASY TO SCREW CONCRETE UP BUT TIS DARN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO UNSCREW IT"
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • 6,434 posts
Posted by FJ and G on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 5:43 AM
thanks for more info. Pond is about 10 square feet but I may be making additional water features. If water doesn't penetrate concrete more than 1.5 inches, maybe thicker concrete is what I need. I don't care much for rubber.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Slower Lower Delaware
  • 1,266 posts
Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 1:15 PM
Don't forget that concrete has to be supported, frost heave and other vagaries of use could cause cracking and the need to totally replace.  On the other hand the rubber pond liner stuff is flexible and not as prone to breakage.   My rubber lined pond is now into it's 5th winter, and freezing hasn't bothered it so far!
  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: south central PA
  • 580 posts
Posted by concretelackey on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:11 PM

The Captain brings up a valid point. 1 1/2" thick concrete in freezing conditions should be limited to about a 3'x3' area (sq ft) with a adequate sub base. Do you mean 10 square feet or 10 feet square? There is a difference. 10 feet square eqauls 100 square feet. If it is in the area of 10 square feet I would wait until springtime to see how it held up thru the freeze/thaw/freeze process. At

What type of sub base is under the concrete?

Is there any reinforcement in the concrete?

Do you have a "drain plug" that will keep the water from building up?

Has any of your lakes and streams seen their first winter?

Ken

 

Ken aka "CL" "TIS QUITE EASY TO SCREW CONCRETE UP BUT TIS DARN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO UNSCREW IT"
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • 6,434 posts
Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, December 13, 2007 5:55 AM
Well, I'm going to worry about the water features later on. I think the best thing is to get a book on concrete ponds and follow the tables for depth per square footage, rebar and so on. I've heard some say that if you really want the look and feel and advantages of concrete without the problems, you can do a pour, then add a liner and pour over that. That would seem to be the best.
  • Member since
    September 2007
  • 15 posts
Posted by hudrail on Saturday, January 26, 2008 10:36 AM

 Crums I have layed a whole 5" railway on concrete and never knew all these things on this forum .All I can say is we are so fortunate that these people are prepared to share their knowledge with us. Thank you gentlemen I feel totally humbled. Visit "brenthouse.co.uk" to see 25 years of concrete laying . after all these years on London clay movement has taken its toll and I have to keep the track level using plastic strips under the track. Do you use a vibrator of any description as I would use an electric motor with an offset weight to shake the mould!

         Life is a throttle in the hand    Hudrail 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 28, 2008 10:03 AM

hudrail,

When it is a small pour for me I just use a Porter Cable sander which makes them bubbles come up. It is a more heavy duty sander thou, but it works.

Toad

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month

By signing up you may also receive occasional reader surveys and special offers from Garden Railways magazine. Please view our privacy policy