track

[idahocookie]

hello i'm new to this forum. and scale. i have started to make plans for a  garden layout and need to know what kinds of tracks are out there and brand and differences between stainless, aluminum, brass and ony others that are out there. also recomendations for switches. 

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

I'd recomend searching the back posts. One big thing is what general scale are you going for. just about evrything in "g" scale runs on 45mm track, but the scales range from 1:32 to 1:20.3 and go larger. the larger the scale the larger the ties and the fewer. My recomendation would be  LGB brass it looks good, and holds up increadibly.

Stainless           never crodes so a better electrical pickup

bass                 tarnishes, looks better, outlasts time

alumium            never rust, cheeper than dirt

Don't know about switches.

[Anonymous]

I have used myself brass Aristo-Craft code 250 rail USA style with LGB switches. Also make note you want a rail clamp like Hillmans or other but you don't have to go with it if you feel you will not need them but there very good. Enjoy!

Toad in da Swamp

[cacole]

If you haven't yet priced G-scale track, be prepared for some sticker shock.  I used Aristo-Craft brass track wherever possible, and stainless steel if the brass track wasn't available for what I needed, such as #6 turnouts.

Because I run only with battery power, electrical contact and dirty track are of no concern, but I have had to use rail clamps in a couple of locations because the track kept coming apart.  I hated working with the Aristo-Craft joint screws and wound up losing a lot of them.  Some have worked loose and fallen out, but the track is still together so I'm not concerned about it yet.

Brass is cheaper than stainless steel.  I think some companies also make nickel silver rail, but I don't have any.  Not in G-scale at any rate.  All of my HO track is nickel silver, but it is also all indoors.

One thing to avoid like the plague is Bachmann G-scale track.  It is cheap, but rusts away in no time because it is steel and not intended for outdoor use.

Track with aluminum rail is also available, but I have no experience with it.

[FJ and G]

Idaho,

It would take a book to answer your questions. Better yet, can you be more specific.

Are you going to run with track power or R/C/battery? 

What scale and gauge are you planning to run and what time period.

Is prototype correctness important to you? This will help to clarify the code (size) rail, tie spacing and so on.

If you haven't thought about those questions, I'd think about them first and then we can talk track.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

It is quite helpful to give some idea of geographic location in your profile as it does have a bearing on the answers you will get!   Even something as general as a State, or section thereof here in usa, nation in Europe, Area in Australia.   Check mine, it indicates the lower part of the State of Delaware.   You seem to indicate that you are in Idaho, but you could have been from there and live somewhere else and use it as a name!

Reason:  What works in an arid desert area may not work in the salty damp of an oceanside community!   The hot sunny South has a different climate than the Frozen Tundra!    Things or products that are readily available in the States may be impossible to find in Far East!

Now to your query!   I prefer Stainless for several reasons. 1. I don't have to clean it before every time I run trains!   2.  It's harder and withstands the weight of animals better.   3. It has a lesser ratio of expansion and contraction than brass.   In my opinion (and that is just one guy's opinion) it is well worth the price premium in relation to other materials!

There are lots of threads on the subject in the next subject down, the design and construction heading!

[ttrigg]

Idahocookie;



I'm just going to add a half a thought to what everyone else has said.

Like Patrick (S&G Route of the Silver River) said, a new thread appears about every two weeks asking the same questions.  If you go back and read them there is a vast wealth of info on these pages.  One thing Patrick did not mention is that most of the track we use is pretty well elephant proof.  If your foundation is good you can drive a dump truck over it without hurting it.

Like William (toad frog) said, I would also advise using rail clamps.

As Charles said, prepare for sticker shock.  I calculated the "in ground" cost of my stuff at around $6.50 US per foot of track, but that was before the costs for rails went up.  In ground costs = track, gravel, weed fabric, crusher fines, wiring and switches.

Like David said, your trueness to "scale" and weather you plan track power, RC, Battery also play a large role.

As Capt Bob said, where you are located will play a large role in answering question.

Finally:  Around here you probably do not want to ask the question "Which is BEST ......." That question has almost started a few riots around here.  Depending upon your local (both weather and geological) what is best for us may be the worst of all possible choices for you.  I know I'm getting a little long winded here, but go back and read the posts over the last 3~4 months, come back and ask any remaining questions and this bunch of guys will give almost too much advice.

[idahocookie]

thanks for the info I will take a look at the other post and be back with more questions

Also i did not know that there were battery powered rather than track powered i will deffinetly check that out.  

 

[two tone]

Hi I would recomend LGB track and turn outs brass is best. Always make sure that the fish plates are tight and put a little graphite grease in eack joint. If you are having electric turnout then go for a wireless control system   I use the train engineer.  Hope this helps

[Snoq. Pass RR]

S&G, from what I hear, Stainless Steel (SS) track has little to no electrical pickup.

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

Maby so, but it certanily carries enough to let me know I'm grabbing the wrong part.

[Anonymous]

Test it with a volt meter or your tongue and let me know......

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Snoq Pass --- Then please explain how my 308 feet of Stainless operates very well on track power with only one set of leads?

[Anonymous]

Go to the 380' and stick your tounge on the end haahahahhahaha

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

Now that isn't very nice, besides I'm always the one doing stupid stuff.

[Snoq. Pass RR]

OKAY, maybe that is wrong, but I am just saying what I was told.

[Anonymous]

 

Uh huh....so why do I have a diploma on my wall for that stupid stuff!

[ttrigg]

OK Kids; Stop with all the squabbling.  Which is best? I ain't gonna go there!  I will state that I love LGB 5 ft flex, Split Jaw, and LGB remote switches.  Yes I do spend a few minutes each running session clearing out the dust, sand and organic debris from the switches, and I use a sanding pole to clean the track heads (about 5 minutes) about every three months.

[FJ and G]

another consideration I didn't mention (besides wanting prototype correctness or not caring, era, railroad and the area of that RR you're modeling, scale, and gauge, r/c or not), is whether or not uniform plastic ties satisfy you. They don't for me but did at one time. Now I like to make my own ties and vary the spacing between them slightly and misalign a few. As you grow (or wither) in the hobby, your interests tend to change.

That's why I stress so much that before deciding on track and just going by someone else's favorites, you should see what suits your needs and perhaps you can gaze into your crystal ball and see what you might want in the future.