Sunday Photo Fun 6-2-07

[phillyreading]

Jefelectric,

Nice photos, looks like you were at the Pennsylvania Railroad museum for the photos of the GG1, like the BB1 electric a.k.a. tunnel rat, the BB1 used to run into the Pennsy Station in NYC before the station was demolished in the 1960's.

As for running a GP-9 the correct way for the Pennsy I put an unpowered unit up front of the powered diesel facing the correct way for the Pennsy.

Not sure but did Pennsy also run their SD-45's the same way as their GP-9's?

Sort of off topic but can I use a Flash Drive to down load some of the stuff on my computor so that I will have more room to down load my digital camera?  My problem is that my camera won't down load to my computor after one time, something about files full.

Lee F.

[Dave Farquhar]

thanks, Dave, a friend who lives nearby just told me that he uses cerobend which melts at 158 F. No shortage of stuff out there apparently.

I knew I'd heard that name before. I looked it up, and Cerrobend is a trade name for Wood's Metal. Some interesting stuff at the Wikipedia article for it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerrobend

There are some similar alloys that melt at as little as 117 degrees F. Due to the likelihood of children coming into contact with anything I make, lead content makes me nervous. But those super-low melting points sure do have some appeal. It makes 3rd-degree burns a lot less likely.

I have a stack of old Model Railroaders from the '50s (yard sale find!) and one of them contained an article on low-temperature casting, probably using Cerrobend. Interesting reading. I just found an article online that talks about it too: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/models/casting/SpinCasting.htm

 

[FJ and G]

thanks, Dave, a friend who lives nearby just told me that he uses cerobend which melts at 158 F. No shortage of stuff out there apparently.

 

Opens up a whole nother world of alchemy and the black arts. 

[Dave Farquhar]

The solder is certainly cheaper than white metal and I can’t really think of any disadvantages it has compared to white metal.

It all depends on what you're after. Some white metal alloys are lead-free, so they will offer lower toxicity (I've heard both sides of the debate on the safety of lead, but suffice it to say even the people who swear lead is perfectly safe aren't exactly putting it on their pancakes). Some offer a lower melting point, which can be an advantage. The melting point of Wood's Metal is about 160 degrees, so you can melt it over a candle flame, and you can use molds that would never withstand metals that require higher temperatures. There's another alloy whose name I can't recall with a melting point that's slightly higher, but still under 250 degrees. Both of them contain a lot of lead though.

There's one metal, bismuth I believe, that actually expands slightly as it cools, so alloys that contain it are very good for casting. Most metals shrink ever so slightly, so they won't pick up as much detail as a metal that expands.

I've read up a lot about casting, but as accident-prone as I am, I've been very hesitant to try anything involving molten metal. I'm following what you're doing with interest.

[FJ and G]

Kurt,

 

You've got my attention; sounds interesting; may have to look into that!

 

Fiftedog.

 

Fishing lures; now what an idea!

 

Or, dog tags

 

 

[fifedog]

FJ&G - You must have been a blacksmith in a past life.  If those wheels don't work, you can always use them for fishing sinkers...

[kpolak]

Woe now big fella...

You're way outta control...but it looks awesome! 

Perhaps try some sand castings with some steel/iron or brass alloy, for some durabiility...I bet you could get some pretty good sand molds out of a hand press.

I'll bet Bob will be able to provide some info on melting points of steel/iron alloys.  You may have to switch to MAPP gas, or Oxy/Acetelyne, to heat them up.  Also try some of those liquid fel camp stoves...I have a wisperlite stove, and it gets really hot...too hot to cook with sometimes, but I haven't tried to melt any metals.

Kurt

[FJ and G]

95% heavy metal wheels

decided to try my hand at metal casting so I picked up some supplies from Ace hardware: a $10 cast iron pot; a $10 5lb bar of lead; and a $10 1lb bar of solder.

I haven’t yet tried the lead out but did some castings with the solder. With that bar, I should be able to create a number of wheels. The bar says 50/50, which I take to mean 50% lead and 50% tin (would be cheaper if I could learn how to combine those 2 materials myself). Unsure what the 4 in 1 means (stamped on the bar). The solder is certainly cheaper than white metal and I can’t really think of any disadvantages it has compared to white metal.

Used propane torch to melt the solder and a work glove to hold the pot when pouring. Incidentally, the pot stays really hot for about an hour. Pretty amazing pot.

My initial fear was that the solder would solidify on contact. That fear was unfounded, however, as the molten blob stays molten for around 8-10 seconds, giving enough time for it to settle in the mold.

My biggest disappointment was that the molten solder for some reason didn’t settle in a few spots. Of course the spoked wheel offered a challenge, as there are numerous crevices to fill. I tried shaking and tapping and blowing, but try as I might, it wouldn’t settle completely (but it still got into more than 95% of the mold). A more simple mold should give better results.

So what to do now? Plan B and C.

I haven’t yet (but will) try plan B, which is to build a centrifuge. My plan would be to set my power drill in a heavy vice with the drill pointed straight up. Attach a platter to the drill, ensuring it all is level. And then place the mold on the platter. Quickly cover the molten solder and then spin the platter on high speed, thus creating a sort of poor man’s spin casting device.

Plan C was the easier to execute, thus the chosen path of least resistance for me. I simply recast the mold with the already cast solder by lining the mold with a thin layer of epoxy. I’m familiar with JB Weld but found a somewhat less expensive product that I believe has the exact characteristics of JB Weld called PC-7. PC-7 is a 1:1 product in 2 cans that when the black and white substance is mixed, turns a sort of grey. Drying time is about 12 hours.

Plan C worked well, with just a couple of areas needing touch up. I purposely didn’t use casting resin or the smooth-on product resin, as there’s a warning that it doesn’t bond with lead or steel and some other metals.

The trick to removing flashing or drill holes in solder is to use tin snips for the big pieces and a hand file or sandpaper for finishing work. Hi speed power tools shouldn’t be used because could cause remelt. For drilling, you can either use a hand drill or a speed drill, but drill fast before heat can build up.

Summers in Virginia get hot but not yet (I think) hot enough to melt solder.

I’m not sure all this work I did was really justified, as metal powder would have made the job a whole lot easier. However, the solder method (and perhaps lead), will find a useful place in my repertoire of casting methods as it might just be the thing I need for a certain part.








beginning rumbles of a “squash” tipper

now that my wheel castings are coming along fairly well (with some ups and downs), I thought I’d start a 7/8n18 O gauge tipper, built from a composite of tipper prototype photos, taking the best of what I have in mind. The freelance based on prototype approach seems relevant, as tippers come in so many varieties and not a few have seen their own modifications in the name of field expediency.

My goal is to create a master tipper and then make a whole mess of fascimilies from a 2-piece silicone rubber mold, creating in effect tipper hatchlings from the mother.

To do this, I printed out a mess of tipper photos to work from and then did some cardboard mockups. Once satisfied with the mockup, I cut some heavy gauge steel to form the V chassis and locked the sides into place with PC-7 epoxy, followed by some touch ups with Bondo. I would have used cardstock for the body, except for the fact that to make a squash mold, one needs to emplant non-sulfurous clay inside the body, and I was fearful that the mother tipper would become pregnant as the clay would bulge her out. OTOH, the heavy duty steel will withstand the clay implant.

Next come rivets. I spent an inordinate amount of time trying to duplicate the rivet effect in the pictures. A number of punches and pointy devices did not work to my satisfaction so I took a large nail and spent some time filing it on the bench grinder until the impressions left me satisfied.

I then measured and made rivets in cardstock (3x5 index cards) and affixed the rivet strips to the body with Welder adhesive. Eventually, I’ll add a coat of shellac over everything to fill in any miniscule gaps and pores in the paper. Remember, the mother can be ugly but the babies need to be beautiful.

I thought about adding the angle irons on both ends which allow the tipper to tip, but decided against it because of the likelihood of mechanical locking, the bane of casters. I’ll likely cast separately a number of items to prevent this from happening. I plan to make all of the other master parts from card stock or steel, depending on what works best. The nwb’s will likely be cardstock or perhaps real nwb’s.

Incidentally, I’ve never before done a squash mold but I know to make keys to line the 2 parts of the mold up. I may also use clay around and inside part of the tipper to save on silicone rubber, which is pricey. But there will be at least ½ inch of mold around everything.

I’m not in a rush so I don’t know when I’ll get this all completed but I’ll be sure to keep you posted with photos and updates.

[Reading T-1]

GREAT PICTURES EVERYONE, I alway find time to view the sunday photo fun thread.

[fifedog]

Laz57 - is that what makes you so classic...?

[laz 57]

I picked up this boxcar yesterday. I had to get it since its the year I was born.

 

I got to get that one too, was born the first day o '57.

laz57

[wrmcclellan]

John - good videos!

LAZ - ERIE's look great!

Great photos all!

[Anonymous]

thats very nice......bold

[zwbob]

I picked up this boxcar yesterday. I had to get it since its the year I was born.

[Anonymous]

jefelectric  nice videos i like them

 

laz nice passeger set there..

 

great photos everyone

[laz 57]

DENNIS I was on the  JUSTRAINS web site and they have  the same thing I bought, Erie F3s and the Passenger set for $560.  So I definitly did good.

laz57

[dwiemer]

LAZ, Great find.  I got the Lackawanna set from K-line, without passenger cars it was $349.  and that was a great deal, you, my friend, did better.  The photos are great everybody.  One of the best features of this site is the Sunday Photo Fun.

Dennis

[jefelectric]

My first attempt at videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6Uuq0Ppy0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lEn27awKeE

Not the best quality.

HUGE COAL TRAIN, JON.  Is that a RS 3 linked together on the consist?

laz57

Laz, That is a Railking Scale SD-9.  It is actually running backwards but MTH apparently didn't know that the PRR ran them long hood front.  I am thinking about changing it but it is a pain.  Didn't try yet but if I can switch the body on the frame it is not to bad, otherwise I have to reverse the motor leads, reverse the headling connections and reverse the coupler connections.  I think that is everything.  Oh and also turn the crew around so they arel looking the correct way.

[laz 57]

My first attempt at videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6Uuq0Ppy0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lEn27awKeE

Not the best quality.

HUGE COAL TRAIN, JON.  Is that a RS 3 linked together on the consist?

laz57

[laz 57]

Neat Photos GIZ,

Heres my find and BARRYs TRAIN SHOP yesterday

Its a K-LINE uncataloged EIRE F3 ABA dual motors in each A unit, all units have smoke and 5 Heavy Weights all for the unheard of price of $422 out the door.  He had 31 sets as of Thursday and I got number 30.  I was lucky.

laz57

[jefelectric]

My first attempt at videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6Uuq0Ppy0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lEn27awKeE

Not the best quality.

[jefelectric]

A few pics from the PRR days at the PA RR Museum.

Don't forget to click on the pics to enlarge.

Great pickup.

GG1

BB1

Neat Boxcar.

Ore car.

Harrisburg Chapter of the NRHS modular HO layout.

Guess I better stop here, more another time.

[Brutus]

Great pics guys!

[raymans]

fifedog

Fred Rodgers is a Woodland Scenics #WD2731 "O scale seated passengers"

 

 

[billbarman]

nice videos and pictures everyone! too bad my camera hads to plugged into my computer, my layout is in another room.

[fifedog]

Spank - cool night pics.

Pbjwilson - cooler night effect photos.

wrmcclellean - nice videos.  Has the dust settled from the great tear-down?

raymans - great shanty scene. Love the dog! And, where did you find the sitting Fred Rogers figure?

Nice shots EVERYONE.

[raymans]

a few of the freight terminal

 

 

[wrmcclellan]

A couple more videos this week.

NYC CCII Niagara Milk Train

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXyewFHT6QE

K-Line Mikado meets Lionel CCII Trainmaster Demonstrators

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7N4BN-rRtA

 

[scottsmith]

 

 

Scott Smith