Fixed voltage wiring for 022 switches witha ZW and/or KW

[ezmike]

I tried looking for past posts regarding how to do this. I've reviewed the 022 instruction sheet. I'm I correct with this interpretation?

 For each switch in use run wire either from fixed voltage plug to plug or if using a wiring block from each plug to a screw on the block then from there to either the B or C post on the ZW or the B post on the KW. Then run a wire from the U post on either transformer to #2 on a lock-on and then another wire from the A or D post on the ZW or the A post on the KW to #1 on the lock-on.

It just doesn't seem right!

Mike

[lionelsoni]

Connect the outside rails to U of whichever transformer you're using.

For the KW, connect the center rail to A or B, depending on which one you want to control the trains.  Connect the fixed-voltage plug to D if you want a steady 20 volts to the turnouts.  Connect the fixed-voltage plug to A or B (whichever you're not using for the center rail) if you want to be able to adjust the turnout voltage instead.

For the ZW, connect the center rail to A or D, depending on which one you want to control the trains.  Connect the fixed-voltage plug to B or C, either of which will allow you to adjust the turnout voltage.

[bfskinner]

ezmike,

Not sure I understand your concern. The basic wiring scheme with a ZW or a KW is to run a lead from the A post to the post on the lockon that powers the center rail; and another from a U post to post on the lockon that contacts an outside rail. In this arrangement both the regular track and the switch motor take their power from post A and use a common "ground" or return.

When you insert a separate wire from another post on the transformer (B for example) into the side of the switch-motor housing, the conical shape of the constant-voltage plug simultaneously breaks the track-voltage connection to the switch motor, and substitutes the voltage from post B on the transformer. Thie voltage to the switch motor can now be adjusted (generally upward for a snappy response) by moving the secondary throttle lever that controls the B terminal. This adjusts only the power to the switch motor, because the track power from the A post was disconnected via the insertion of the the constant-voltage plug.

Both the track and the switch motor continue to use the same "common ground" *(return) as before.

Sometimes folks miss the fact that the one act of inserting the constant-voltage plug performs two functions by breaking one circuit while connecting another. I don't immediately see where adding "blocks" changes the fundamental circuitry, as long as the switch motor has no way of picking up power from the center rails on either side of the switch.

..........

*Incidentally, this is why the early CW-80 transformers presented problems whenever someone tried to wire the accessory post B to the fixed-voltage port -- there was no "common ground." The newly revised CW's that have both U posts as common will work just fine.

[phillyreading]

Read the instructions before applying voltage with the constant voltage plug on the new 022 switches as they can burn-up at higher than factory called for voltages.

The old post-war 022 switches can take the higher voltage from a post-war ZW and work just fine.

Lee F.

[ezmike]

Thanks to all of you. I saw that there was the connection to the transformer's terminal from the plugs and from the transformer to the lock-on (center rail and outside rail) and didn't understand it. So before I hooked it up I wanted to make sure I was reading and understanding the instruction correctly. I realize now that the block part of the question doesn't mean anything so long as you keep the cuircuts as intended.

 Thanks again!

[lionelsoni]

I got this from Mike and am presuming to post it here so that others can see my reply:

"Bob,

"Your reply really cleared things up for me, thanks. I went with the "A" post of the KW at 14 volts. I have one more question that you might be able to answer. In your reply you said I could go the the "D" post for a straight 20 volts. The 022 instruction suggest that if you use this post to use a 10-ohm, 25-watt resistor. Remembering that I'm not only a novice to the hobby but electric ignorant, can you explain why they suggest this, when do you get them and how are they installed? If its not too much trouble.

"I may have another use for the "A" post and need an alternative power source but do not want to damage the switches.

"Thanks

"Mike"

The 022 shuts off the solenoid after throwing the turnout; so the resistor is doubtless intended just to reduce the voltage on the 18-volt lamps.  There are two lamps lit at a time, one in the turnout motor and the other in the controller.  Their total current is about 400 milliamperes, which would produce a 4-volt drop across the resistor, lowering the lamp voltage to 16 volts, greatly extending their life and reducing the chance of melting the lantern.  If you use the same resistor for two turnouts, the drop is a few volts more.

When you do throw the turnout, the solenoid will probably get around 10 volts, which may be marginal unless it's in good condition.

The resistor goes in series with the fixed-voltage plug.  So:  D to one resistor lead, other resistor lead to fixed-voltage plug.

You can get 10-ohm, 10-watt resistors at Radio Shack (271-132, 2 @ $1.79).  I think Lionel's 25-watt recommendation is overkill.  The likely dissipation is no more than about 5 watts even with two turnouts.

[sir james I]

The way I read that is they are telling you how to wire the 022 and also how to power your track using post A orD.

[ezmike]

Bob,

 Thanks for your reply and for posting it for everyone. I don't know why I sent a "pm" to you with the question. All I can say is that I was multi-tasking at the time and as we get older we should keep the "multi" in multi-tasking to a minimum.

 Now I understand the reason and how to do it. Now the next step is to try it and see what happens.

 BTW, when or how, if ever, is the "D" post a constant 14v? It looks like it can be on the instructions or am I just reading it wrong? (just like the "B" can be 6v)

Mike

[lionelsoni]

The D is 14 volts relative to C.  You have the option of using C as the common (connected to the outside rails) instead of U.  This subtracts 6 volts from A, B, and D.  It also places U at 6 volts.  One might do this to be able to get very low voltages from A and B for powering modern locomotives which start moving at less than 6 volts.  The disadvantage is that the track voltage will go up to only 14 volts, which may not be enough for some locomotives and trains.

[ezmike]

I see (I think) can you then use D as the hot and C as the common to supply accessories at a constant 14v? Can you do the same to power low voltage lights at 6v using C and U?

Last question, I promise.

Mike

[lionelsoni]

Yes, you can.  The restriction is that, if an accessory is actuated by a control rail on the track--and 022 turnouts are in this category--it must use the same common as the track (outside rails).  This means that, if such an accessory wants 14 and not 20 volts, the train will also be limited to 14 volts, since they will both have to use C as the common.

However, an accessory that is independent of a control rail, like simple lights, can use any two terminals that give the appropriate voltage, 6 (C and U), 14 (C and D), or 20 (D and U).

Ask all you want!

[ezmike]

Bob,

Thanks, that's want I needed to know.

Right now I'm controlling 2 trains off my ZW's right and left controllers, with a 362 barrel ramp on one of the accessory controllers and a 394 tower on the other at 14v. On the KW I have a trolley/gang car setup on B with the 022 switches on A at 14v (the ZW and KW are linked by commons and in phase, I learned that from a combination of someone I know and from a post here).

I want to put some low voltage lights on a constant 6v and move the 394 on 14v freeing up the other accessory controller on the ZW. So as you described I can do this, right?

Mike

[lionelsoni]

If I understand your description, yes.

[ezmike]

Bob,

Thanks for the explanations it has been a great help. Thanks to everyone else who put in their 2 cents as well. It seems clearer now.

Mike

[ezmike]

I got this from Mike and am presuming to post it here so that others can see my reply:

"Bob,

"Your reply really cleared things up for me, thanks. I went with the "A" post of the KW at 14 volts. I have one more question that you might be able to answer. In your reply you said I could go the the "D" post for a straight 20 volts. The 022 instruction suggest that if you use this post to use a 10-ohm, 25-watt resistor. Remembering that I'm not only a novice to the hobby but electric ignorant, can you explain why they suggest this, when do you get them and how are they installed? If its not too much trouble.

"I may have another use for the "A" post and need an alternative power source but do not want to damage the switches.

"Thanks

"Mike"

The 022 shuts off the solenoid after throwing the turnout; so the resistor is doubtless intended just to reduce the voltage on the 18-volt lamps.  There are two lamps lit at a time, one in the turnout motor and the other in the controller.  Their total current is about 400 milliamperes, which would produce a 4-volt drop across the resistor, lowering the lamp voltage to 16 volts, greatly extending their life and reducing the chance of melting the lantern.  If you use the same resistor for two turnouts, the drop is a few volts more.

When you do throw the turnout, the solenoid will probably get around 10 volts, which may be marginal unless it's in good condition.

The resistor goes in series with the fixed-voltage plug.  So:  D to one resistor lead, other resistor lead to fixed-voltage plug.

You can get 10-ohm, 10-watt resistors at Radio Shack (271-132, 2 @ $1.79).  I think Lionel's 25-watt recommendation is overkill.  The likely dissipation is no more than about 5 watts even with two turnouts.

Hey Bob,

 I connected as you instructed. The ceramic body gets really hot. Is this supposed to happen?

Mike

[lionelsoni]

Resistors turn electrical energy into heat; so it is normal for a resistor to heat up.  The real question is whether it is being asked to make more heat than the 10 watts it is rated for.  That's hard for me to tell from here.

I estimated that the resistor would dissipate about 5 watts.  That's what it would put out with a steady 7 volts across it.  If you have a way to measure voltage, you could take the resistor out of the circuit and connect it across your transformer, with the transformer's output set to 7 volts.  However hot that makes it is well within (only half of) its rating; so, if that doesn't make it any hotter than it has been getting in your turnout circuit, everything is okay.  Otherwise, something may be wrong in your equipment or the way you have it wired.

[ezmike]

Bob,

Thanks again for the quick reply. I think I have it wired the way you explained. I connected the "hot" wire from the KW 20v terminal to one of the resistor wires and the other to the wire leading to 2 of the turnouts.

I have a voltmeter so I can test it. What do you mean by "connect it across your transformer"? I'm sure it is a term of art but I'm not sure I know what it means. Then I'll test it and let you know what happens.

Mike 

[lionelsoni]

Set the transformer so that you have 7 volts between terminals A (or B) and U.  Then connect the resistor (by itself) to terminals A (or B) and U.  Then see how hot it gets, compared to how hot it is normally in your turnout circuit.

[ezmike]

Bob,

So then both the A (B) & U wires are connected to the same wire on the resistor? And in the test, the other wire coming out of the resistor would have nothing attached to it?

I really appreciate your patience.

 Mike 

[lionelsoni]

No.  One end of the resistor to A, the other end to U.  Set the handle so that the voltage between A and U is 7 volts.

Or, if it is more convenient, you can use the B terminal instead of the A.  (But don't use both A and B!)

[ezmike]

Bob,

 Grazie, I'll let you know what I get. BTW, I didn't mean that I would connect both A & B. I should have written it as "A or B" and then U to the other end.

Arrivederci,

Mike