Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
Buckeye Riveter wrote:I think I'm in big trouble. I just counted 16 people heading towards my house to spend a week's vacation and one of them is driving a bus with four or five hounds.
Buckeye : if the picture below looks like the dogs in the bus, then we know who it is !!
Thanks, John
Bob Mitchell Gettysburg, PA TCA # 98-47956 LCCA# RM22839
csxt30 wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote:I think I'm in big trouble. I just counted 16 people heading towards my house to spend a week's vacation and one of them is driving a bus with four or five hounds. Buckeye : if the picture below looks like the dogs in the bus, then we know who it is !! Thanks, John
John,
HOT DANG! Dem's real purdy! Do any of them own a Bass Boat?
Bruce Webster
Fifedog,
This might be close to what you are saying. It looks like it did indeed lengthen it some 15%, and got it down from 4 to around 3 degrees incline. I made a passing zone on the way up/down the hill to allow trains to pass on another, since my loops are not smaller and I really can't fit two trains on one loop now. It cuts into my scenery area, but I also gained the whole 1x5 area in the front of the bench.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804326566415/0
Let me know,
Wes
Brent,
The right top corner is in the corner of the house, and I can't push the whole thing to the left because of a certain width of walkway that I wanted to keep on the left side. I did rework the layout a little making it slightly longer. Not much, but the curves are not as steep now, either. I will try to rework the parallel passing tracks to make them a little bit cleaner.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804326625659/0
Wes,LOL! Not longer, deeper...So instead of being 4ft deep (to the rear wall) it would be 5ft deep...Once I have this hunk of junk PC finished, I can install RR-Track and show you want I'm after...Brent
Oh...Well I could go deeper, but then I would probably be required to put a leg to hold it up. As of right now, my brackets on the walls will support the 4' overhand without a problem. Then I would be inclined to make the other side 5' deep, and then the center section would be 5' deep, and then I would have to move it to the other room!
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804326689427/0
Wes,the first modified drawing 9721 is pretty darn near what I was explaining. I would eliminate the inner passing siding on the ascending/descending loop on the right, and place an industrial siding within that loop instead. (Parking a train on a grade is asking for trouble.)
I did like the second modified drawing 97211 because of that wide sweeping curvecoming out of the right loop. Unfortunately it really stubs your siding tracks in the center. With both drawings you have created a need for a bridge to separate the upper loop from the lower loop, and in model railroading, that is always a good thing.
I will further recommend that you start your grade a foot after the lower line clears the upper line. Typically, you will need 5 to 53/4 inches of clearance (depending on the type of equipment you are going to run...better think future purchases here too). Take a tape measure and figure out the total distance from under to over. Then divide by 5 or 6, and that will help you plot your risers for your incline.
FIfedog,
If I take out the passing, then how will this industrial siding layed out? Still parallel with teh outer loop on the right, and just long enough to fit a train onto for passing?
How about this...
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804326758668/0
She's really starting to flow now. The upper loop left hand return switch is gonna be a bugaboo over the lower line there. Leave that in position there, and add one piece of straight track to the lower outer loop (left front edge), and it should clear that switch above (no bridges available to accomodate a switch). Now you can bridge across the lower line and really have a centerpiece there to work with.
As for the passing siding, might you be willing to spur off the outer left loop ( as it heads back towards the center) and parallel the lower line and then tie in to the loop at the rear right end. Perhaps I missed it, what are the two pronged siding in the middle servicing?
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804326934312/0
I partially got what you are saying, but I'm sure I didn't execute it correctly. I'm limited two where I can move the 4x4 corners, so I didn't know where to put the straight in the left front corner that you were talking about. I moved the lower spur towards the right to make room for the upper looparound, and then I added a couple of spurs close to where I thought you were talking about. I make two of them because I didn't know which one I would use, but after doing it, I kinda like having all 3 paths there. The split fork was to part some cars on because there wasn't enough room for a whole consist, but with these sidings, I don't need them anymore.
-Edit- After going back and looking at it, The sidings have a negative effect on my grading, requiring me to wait before I start the elevation change. It's still in between 3 and 4% though.
Awaiting further instruction!
That looks great. You still need to take 1 straight track from the upper right side and place a straight section at the lower left side (to avoid passing under your upper return loop switch), but otherwise , it really flows. I'm thinking a nice two story passenger station would look great next to the right most staging track (at that same angle). I think you have maxed your run without getting that spaghetti bowl affect. You still have a big empty space to cut a spur into your right side loop for an industry. You defintely have the run you need to gain elevation.
Just compare what you have here to your first drawing. The first seemed compressed and really symetric. This latest rendering is asymetric and fluid.
For further inspiration, check out some B&O photos of the Magnolia Cutoff. There are several areas along that line that you could easily recreate with your current diagram.
I think I understand. I pushed it to the right by taking a straight from the right of the right most passing, and put it to the left of the left most passing. The only problem is that it cost my 20" of rise. Since I really can't start the incline until just right of the rightmost passing (right?), it leaves me with only around 130" to rise 7", which is now over 5%.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804327268450/1
To get some of that back, and to make the trek up the hill a little more interesting, I went across the bottom front, and flipped the loop. I got more length back, put still not over the 230+" that I need before passing over a track.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804327282446/0
Maybe I have too many sidings, or maybe I can slide all of the sidings back towards the left again. I was planning on using MTH trusses to hold up the track when I am crossing other tracks, and building in "earth" when I can.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804327302164/0
All I did was measure the height of a MTH portal. I figured even if I cut it down, I still had to sandwich it between the ground level and the plywood supports holding up the second layer. If I can use 5.5 total, than it might not be an issue. Why was it an issue on my original design? IT was close to 200" in run. I'm glad we did this because this design is much better, but I acutally think I ended up with more incline, because I have less run.
Thanks again for everything,
It's pretty deep. Maybe a compromise in depth. I would like to get there with the 4' deep sections if I can find a way. I think I'm pretty close.
Here is another option...
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804327734504/0
and another. This one has longer sidings to allow for longer trains.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804327747829/0
One word answer - no.
Short explanation - I OPERATE a RAILROAD, to the prototype's timetable, working against a fast clock. No train simply orbits a loop (or auto-switched dogbone.) Total trains in motion at one time may be one, two, three or more, or none (my control system allows me to start a train, which will auto-slow-stop when it gets to the place where it has to do that.) At any one time I am only personally directly controlling a single locomotive or MU set. The rest are 'fire and forget' when I'm operating alone, or under the control of other operators if I'm lucky enough to have a crew.
So why am I on a 'toy train' forum? Because way more than half of my rolling stock is 1960's era Japanese tinplate - real, honest-to-Murgatroyd galvanized steel! I leave the museum-quality modeling to others while I concentrate on operation.
Just my . Feel free to disagree.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Wow, I'd love to see those cars!
I'm probably more fastinated with the mechanics of planning, building, wiring, and automating than I am with operating a timetable, but that's only because I don't know much about prototypical timetables. I hope that in the end, I built something that is somewhat realistic, but if not, that's fine two. Moving parts probably bring me the most excitement, especially if I have the ability to turn on an autopilot so I can watch it all work by itself. I have much to learn. Maybe that's why this is the world's best hobby. It takes a lifetime to figure out.
Well here is a different approach. It was getting a little too busy. I think this is better. I can automate two trains to run on their own without my supervision, and I now have a place to park a train while not in use. Let me know what you think.
Oh, and I don't cook very well.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/weswhitmore/photo/294928804328284267/0
True, but I have to buy the rest of the switches, and just a little bit more track. I'm sure I will buy pieces that I won't end up using, but if I can help it, I will try to avoid it.
Thanks for all of your help. I have at least 2 designs that I like now.
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